Re-profiling with a Sharpmaker is no walk in the park!

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Dec 26, 2010
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I just re-profiled the terribly uneven factory edges on my Cold Steel Recon 1 and American Lawman using my Sharpmaker, and man that was a chore! Even using diamond rods, it took forever! I know AUS8 isn't buttery soft, but it's hardly the most difficult steel to sharpen. Taking down those high shoulders was the real time-sink. Anyways, I'm not the best knife sharpener (probably not even a good one), and I probably didn't do the very best job I could have (I was getting tired!), but I ended up with pretty nice almost-convex edges that easily put these two knives in the top 5 sharpest knives I've owned list. They don't whittle hair, but the shave it easily and slide through receipt paper easily. Anyways, just thought I'd brag a little.:rolleyes:
 
I prefer the Lansky for reprofiling edges.

It's a pain for routine maintenance and I can see using a Sharpmaker for that instead.
 
Once it is re-profiled you are home.

Just don't tell your friends and neighbors that you can sharpen knives. lol.
 
One time I re-profiled a friends Cold steel Ti-lite in a guided stone sharpening system, and that %$&ing stiletto nearly stabbed me twice when it fell out of the clamp.
 
I don't recommend the Sharpmaker to people looking for their first sharpener. There are many, many knives that are over 20 degrees that it just cannot sharpen efficiently. I have spent hours working on one knife. The Edge Pro Apex or Lansky can cut the time down considerably.

Good sharpening,
Dave
 
Congrats on a re profiled edge. There is nothing better.
I did a DUA and a Sebbie 25 almost two months ago for some folks. About 15 minutes a knife and it was a mint 15 degrees per side at the rough finish. Before a member traded them to me. I would do it free hand. I like this much better.
It seems the longest work is removing the diamond marks with the dark ceramics for me. I cheat with a few strokes on 400 grit Wet/dry then jump to the ceramics.
 
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Congrats on a re profiled edge. There is nothing better.
I did a DUA and a Sebbie 25 almost two months ago for some folks. About 15 minutes a knife and it was a mint 15 degrees per side at the rough finish. Before a member traded them to me. I would do it free hand. I like this much better.
It seems the longest work is removing the diamond marks with the dark ceramics for me. I cheat with a few strokes on 400 grit Wet/dry then jump to the ceramics.
That's where I got sort of impatient. I didn't completely remove all of the diamond marks on the back of the bevel.
 
I don't recommend the Sharpmaker to people looking for their first sharpener. There are many, many knives that are over 20 degrees that it just cannot sharpen efficiently. I have spent hours working on one knife. The Edge Pro Apex or Lansky can cut the time down considerably.

Good sharpening,
Dave
I have been thinking about getting a clamp system. Even though it's the most expensive, I'm really drawn to the Wicked Edge system. I'm not in any rush, but I'll probably start researching it.
 
I have a set of Mold Master in 240 grit, in case I need to reprofile. I will clamp them to my sharpmaker.
 
I use a lansky only when necessary for reprifiling and sharpmaker for everything else. My recon 1 and both of my xl voyagers had screwed up almost chisel ground bevels, they were a pain even with the lansky but I got kinda lazy because I was tired, so the edges are ugly and wonky but sharp. Until I get an edge pro I dont care how my edge looks as long as its hair whittling, the lansky is more than I like to mess with but it does work well.
 
Congrats on a "best of" edge for you. I love that feeling.

But as you seem to be figuring out, the SM is not the right tool for this job unless you enjoy spending the hours doing it. A coarse bench stone or a belt sander is much faster. I've got both and prefer the belt sander right now, though I have lots of love for the DMT XXC. That stone/plate is a BEAST! Though you'd likely need at a few more stones after the XXC to clean up the scratches enough to go to the SM medium rods after.

The Wicked Edge and Edge Pro systems are both solid. I might even get one at some point. But having experienced the speed and results of the WSKO, I'm not sure I'll ever want a guided hand powered system now. Never say never. Sharpening is a hobby, a skill, a craft, and for some of us, an obsession. :)

Brian.
 
Just got my Diamond rods today for the Sharpmaker, I reprofiled my PM2 in about an hour with them :eek: thank god for Diamond rods :D
 
I just found an older thread where somebody made their own wicked edge system that would use the wicked edge stone holders. He did it for pretty cheap, I might try to emulate it.
 
I have been thinking about getting a clamp system. Even though it's the most expensive, I'm really drawn to the Wicked Edge system. I'm not in any rush, but I'll probably start researching it.


I just found an older thread where somebody made their own wicked edge system that would use the wicked edge stone holders. He did it for pretty cheap, I might try to emulate it.

I was looking for a good clamp based system 18 months ago. I did lots of research and decided the WE Pro Pack was the right one for me. I bought it and have been happy ever since. It's fast, accurate and repeatable. When I want lots of refinement I will tape 1500 - 2500 grit 3M auto sandpaper to the 1000 grit stones before using the strops.

It was a big investment and took a few knives to get the technique down. After 18 months I will say it was worth the money and the time it took to learn the system.......only trashed one blade while learning the WE :rolleyes:
 
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