I have a vintage ulster with the mid back lock. It beautiful. I love the blade, the stag, everything, except the lock doesn't work. Is there anyway anyone knows how to make the lock work again? Ive reworked knives that I wasn't worried about ruining, but I can't see myself doing this. Any Ideas?
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Re working vintage ulster
- Thread starter W.M.B.
- Start date
This seems to be exactly the problem. But the cutout in the back of the blade that receives the lock bar doesnt look that worn to me, just very shallow. the lock back sits a bit below flush when open, but not by a lot. maybe a 64th of an inch. If you are right and that is the problem, is there a solution? or is this knife officially just for looking at now?
Last edited:
Thanks! Sadly no, not at the moment. I am not at home, and might not be for many days yet.
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2003
- Messages
- 6,544
The lock bar may be the problem. It may be worn from use. Also, is the blade or lock bar play sloppy in any way? I have worked on a few of this type, and they are horribly tricky to get the action correct.
front to back there is a lot of play. if I press in on the lock in the open position up near the blade it catches, almost feels like it wants to lock, but if I apply light pressure to the back of the blade it closes, with less resistance than an average slip joint. Can you guesstimate what you or some other repair person would charge to fix it, or would you just recommend leaving it for display only? is it possible to disassemble, adda small amount of new metal to the lock bar to replace what is worn away, and re-machine it?
Make sure the lock pocket is not filled with lint. If so, clean it out. It should hold then.
However, it can be wear. On a Puma, I've had the lock portion of a lock back wear due to it being softer than the knife blade tang. After about 10 years of continuous use it started to fail. This was a design flaw for Puma knives from the 1980s. I met a guy who had the exact same problem with his Puma as did someone else he knew. Only way to fix it would be to take apart the knife and make a new lock.
However, it can be wear. On a Puma, I've had the lock portion of a lock back wear due to it being softer than the knife blade tang. After about 10 years of continuous use it started to fail. This was a design flaw for Puma knives from the 1980s. I met a guy who had the exact same problem with his Puma as did someone else he knew. Only way to fix it would be to take apart the knife and make a new lock.
Thanks for the suggestion. I did clean it thoroughly with a toothpick. that did not fix the problem. I suppose some gunk could be built up under the lock bar where I can't reach, but since it sits below flush in the open position, I don't think that there is enough in there to be causing the problem.
ea42
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2006
- Messages
- 4,018
It's most likely worn, also, it appears that the bolster pin was replaced, which means the knife was already taken apart at some point. If the reason for that was to attempt to fix the lock, I'm guessing whoever did it took a file to it and wen too far. The fact that it drops in so far seems to be a good indicator of that. If the blade was replaced, the notch could be off, oftentimes these locks got a final fitting during assembly, so no two would be exactly alike.
Eric
Eric
I definately think you are right about the bolster pin. I can't see any signs of tampering with the lock bar, or the blade, but if he filed on the inner face (where he probably would have if your guess is right) I wouldn't be able to see it either way.