Ready to move on ... to next gen HM grinder

Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
707
that is :)

My Goddard-inspired "Big-Red"-like grinder is probably all I will ever need,
small FP, plenty of power (can not stall 11" contact wheel with 3/8 D2), dirt-cheap (HF's $69 Buffer-grinder + some angle iron), multi-functional (full time buffer wheel on other end, platen and contact wheel can changed in 60 secs), nice tracking ....


But then again, the Holidays are coming and one has to reward himself with a new tool :D .

I am thinking about building Bader-like grinder, direct drive off 2HP 3Phase VFD-controlled motor.

The idea is to junk-yard score 1/2 thick steel plate, 12x12 or so, face-mount the motor to the lower portion, in the upper area: fashion a horizontal square channel - for the tool arm, and upright 1.5 square for the tracking wheel's vertical pivot point and be done with it.

Bottom line (we are in big league now, $69 doesn't cut it :( anymore ) :

- nice inverter-rated 2HP 3Phase TEFC motor: $200 (buy locally, shipping charge will kill ya). Must have base AND face mount. Or, try to save $60 buying from Ebay .. not worth it .

- NEMA-4 VFD: $350 (low-weight, low shipping). For $250 you can get Hitachi L200 in NEMA-1, but it will burn out in a year (???) as metal dust builds up inside. There doesn't appear a way to save on VFDs. Good ones command premium ... EOSP !

- figure another $100 for 3 feet of 2x2 square HRS, for tooling arm, some additional steel here and there

- I have a nice collection of surpluscenter rollers and flat pulleys I modified to contact wheels.

Plus, with me mill, lathe, MIG & TIG, 4x6 BS there is no limit to what I can make in the way of tooling for it.

Bottom line: $700 for a workhorse of a grinder. Now, with all the fun in the process of making it (priceless !), it will be virtually free at the end :)

Now, were I a fulltime knifemaker, I'd most certainly buy one ready-made - KMG or Bader, building one wouldn't be worth the time/effort and lost opportunity cost would just kill ya (spending 2-3 weeks building the tool-of-the-trade as opposed to the product you sell).

Now the questions I have:

- will 1/2 12x12 plate be rigid enough to serve as foundation for the grinder ?
- will motor's base mount be strong enough to support the whole thing ? I figure it would be smart to have the 12x12 vertical plate securely anchored to the workbench, in addition to securing the base of the motor
- Motor being easily reversible, I will go for ambidextrous setup, where belt can be on either side of the motor, for those who'd dare to repeat me design.
In my case, space being a constraint, I need the belt to be on the LHS of the motor.


In the way of add-ons, I am thinking about making a buffing wheel attachment and a disk grinder one. I am fine with them being driven
by 2x72 regular belts. Or may be I will groove the driving wheel for a V-belt
(will having a 3/8" wide grove in the driving wheel be detrimental to the abrasive belts ? )
 
Something like this.

The tracking wheel arm has to extend a bit forward, for the belt to have larger contact with the driving wheel.
So when swapping sides, one would have to flip that arm and of course, the tool arm. But you only do it once, as
you decide how you want to have it mounted.


nggrinderld1.jpg


nggrinder2fh4.jpg
 
Backing plate should be heavy enough. Put the spring in the front of the idler wheel instead of behind. Looks fine, Mike
 
Mike - any particular reason for that ? I never liked that compression- spring-on-a-shaft look. Plus extension spring is $5 @ neaby Lowes.

Going the compression-stpring way will let you have shorter tracking-wheel bar, that's about the only thing I can think of
 
I would weld the 12X12 plate to another 12X12 (or larger)plate of 1/4" steel at a 90 degree angle.Mount the motor to both plates.The torque of 2HP plus all that weight on the face plate will bend the foot plate.Also,the face plate is rated to support the motor not the tool.
 
Suggetion:
Call either the "Old Man Johnson" most likely younger than I am, or his very knowledgeable Daughter Carrie at Bader and order what you want....Do go variable speed and I would suggest reversable for sharpening. They built me a horizontal grinder that I wouldn't sell unless I HAD to retire from knifemaking.
Their help is well worth their cost.
I own Bader, BurrKing ( pre-suit happy asshole), and Wilton....
Bader is mighty fine!
 
OK , the orders were placed for

- KBAC-27D from http://pages.thomasbusiness.com/stateelectric/id7.html

Price is $312.change

- 2 HP TEFC 3 phase 3600 RPM invertor duty motor (US Electric aka Emerson).
Used Grainger, list is $178 , for Biz accounts, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611772103

Meets NEMA MG 1 Part 30 Inverter-Duty use at 10:1 variable torque and 2:1 constant torque speed range.

Am I correct assuming I can go down to 0 RPM, while loosing 90% of torque (and most of duty cycle, as enclosed fan is not spinning as fast) and down to 1750 while keeping torque constant ?

All I need now is some steel and 1 driving pulley . I figure 5" OD, will give me
about 4700 SFPM top speed, which is more than plenty.
 
It would not be required to move the spring, just better mechanical advantage. Where it is, behind the piviot point, it would have to pull, rather than apply pressure. I too, am very happy with my Bader III. I have that and a 960 burr King. I loaned out my wilton to a fledgling knifemaker, who moved out of town. "With the Grinder, and all the accessories. GRRRR!!! Mike
 
rashid11 said:
OK , the orders were placed for

- KBAC-27D from http://pages.thomasbusiness.com/stateelectric/id7.html

Price is $312.change

Man, I'm late to the party here. For mine I simply got a NEMA-1 VFD and sealed it up in an outdoor junction box from Home Depot. I figure if it'll keep the electrical bits dry inside during a rain, it'll keep dust out. So far not a speck of dust inside the box around the VFD. Cost was ~$30 for the 12x12x4 junction box and $240 for the VFD. Not a HUGE savings, but when every little bit counts...

-d
 
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