Ready to sell??

JW Knives

JW Knives

Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
566
Hey guys,

I've been messing around with knife making and leather work for about a year now (I'm 24 y.o now)

I recently finished a blade that I personally feel would be something that is "marketable". I've also received positive input from friends and family, which includes a lot of hunters. (Although I do take it all with a grain of salt because I doubt they would say anything negative)

What I was hoping for from you guys is an honest knife makers opinion as to whether or not what I have looks like something that would sell.

Some specs are:

- 1095 blade steel. Forge heated and oil quenched. Tempered at 450 for 1.5 hours.
- Flat Ground, Hand finished to 800 grit
- Bocote Handle Scales. Red .030 vulcanized paper liners.
- SS 1/8 pins and SS lanyard liner.
- Dyed Leather wet formed sheath.
- OAL: 7.5 inches Handle: 4 inches Blade: 3.5 inches

Thanks in advance for the input guys
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BOTTOM BLADE
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Your work looks as good or better than some of the pieces you see listed here in the classifieds. I think you would be justified in putting them up for sale if you are comfortable with that. It is worth some thought, though, about what market you are going to try to start selling in and when. Entering a competitive market as an unknown maker may cause you to under-price your work and set a precedent, and you might have to (or feel that you have to) justify a price increase to your customers at a later date. There is also the perspective that once you put a piece in circulation as a professional, especially with your name on it, it speaks for you from that point onward, so the quality needs to satisfy not just your customer, but yourself, as a professional.
I don't want to discourage you, I think your work looks great and I think it would sell on this forum if you were to list it at a competitive price. Whether you are ready to take that step is up to you, but either way I don't doubt I will see your work somewhere before too long.
 
the only think I would suggest is that you would work on sharp grind lines. they are really kind of dull, and a sharp grind line will really make some knives pop. this is coming from the guy who intentionally dulled his becuase the grinds were SOOOO uneven, but i think it looks really nice.
 
Two things:
1. Throw the vulcanized paper away and never buy or use it again. It only looks good until you get the knife sold then it moves on you. Switch to the stuf from alpha. It is micarta, if I recall.
2. Get a maker's mark if you are going to let your knife leave your hands. It makes them look much more professional and is worth the money.
 
Not an easy question to answer. So many factors come into play when deciding whether or not to sell. Justin mentioned a few. You can do a search on here and you'll find many threads about it with some more things to consider.
It is still a decision that I myself struggles with. Probably will try it in fall but it stresses the heck out of me.

I wish you good luck, whatever you decide to do. :thumbup:
 
Definitely good enough to sell. Now the hard part is what to ask for them.
 
I agree with above about the mark, and the vulcanized fiber.
 
+1 on the vulcanized fiber spacer, use thin G10 from AKS or Masecraft. I have never used vulcanized so can't speak from experience but have seen it cause problems for enough makers that I wouldn't touch it.
 
JW Knives said:
What I was hoping for from you guys is an honest knife makers opinion as to whether or not what I have looks like something that would sell.
Click to expand...

Will it sell?
Everything will sell, it depends on price & only has to appeal to one person.
It surprises me what will sell.




Things I would want to change.

In your sheath - use a stitch groover to groove out a line to keep stitches below the top of the sheath.
The Wild Rose and Paul Long videos are excellent.
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I like the smaller top knife, not the bottom one.
The handles are more or less identical, so the differences are inthe blade width, bevel line and especially the dropped edge.
As mentioned above the bevel line should be sharp and identical on both sides.

I don't know how I would do it differently, but there is something about the way that wide blade drops straight at the heel that I can't get past.
My eye goes straight to it everytime.
 
I have a couple thoughts/questions that I keep going back to in my own knifemaking.

One, I looked at vulcanized liners, and also would never use them due to the reviews.

Two, I agree on a makers mark. Be sure to add one from the start.

Three, how sure are you of you heat treat? You said your dad does knives too? Did you use a forge with a thermocouple so you could hold the 1095 for 4-5 minutes at temp of 1475-1550, and, I apologize if I'm mistaken, but isn't 2-1 hour tempering cycles at 450 more the norm? I'm learning still, so I could be mistaken..

Four, the handle looks to be profiled nicely but the edges look a little "square"?

Other than that, sell away. They are nice basic utilitarian looking knives. Always room to improve, but you have a nice foundation to build upon.
 
Seems like you're on a good track. Why not make a dozen or two more and sell them at up coming autumn arts and crafts shows/fairs! Each one will get better. Then you will have an array of knives you can offer at a range of prices.
 
Not to hijack your thread but I asked a similar questions a few days ago and I'm glad the topic is back. Justin brings up a great point about pricing your work as a new knifemaker. Do you price you work to sell and/or make it appealing at a lower price because you are new? Or do you price according to similar knives listed on the forum with the understanding that you may not sell as fast, and not sell for your asking price because you are new?
 
Thanks for all the responses guys. There is some interest in the knife from the o.p. My strategy would likely be to price it low to hopefully get a few out in the marketplace. I was thinking $75 for the one posted, but we'll see. I bought some more tools today and plan on doing some more work tomorrow. Hopefully get 5 or 6 made up and see what people think. (like Phil Dwyer suggested)

The Makers Mark is next on the purchase list. I have the acid etch machine just need the small stencil made up.

Thanks again everyone for the honest input. This forum and the input from other (and far superior) knife makers is by far the most valuable resource I have.
 
Be sure you are right, then go ahead.

Ask yourself the question........ Would I give $XX.00 for this knife if I saw it for sale?

Again, Be sure you are right, then go ahead.

Robert
 
Good thread, I've been thinking about the same things.

Interesting dilemma though... price too low to get your product moving but risk not being able to raise price later... raise price too soon and you can't move product and may have to lower it to attract buyers...

Judging from your finishing work though, it is definitely sellable. There are people here who have sold every knife they ever made except the first (everyone seems to keep that one ;)) and never had an issue. I hope your first sale goes well :)
 
12345678910 said:
Things I would want to change.

In your sheath - use a stitch groover to groove out a line to keep stitches below the top.
Click to expand...
The grove will do more than make your stitching look better. It will help protect them from wear and breaking before they should. Use on both sides. The free hand grover can be used to make designs instead of tooling and comes in handy when that v cutter grows legs and walks off.
 
Robert Dark makes a good point when saying be sure you are right then go for it. Also, never ever drop your price once you set it. It is fine to deal at knife shows and is expected but on line stick with your set price. If not you will get a reputation for dropping prices and people will watch and wait for you to do same.

Fred
 
I believe the idea that "pricing it to low will hurt you" is a myth. How many at the "first" price are you going to sell? Doesn't improved work ask for more in price? Frank
 
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