Ready to take the free hand plunge

J

jav200dc

Joined
Nov 21, 2006
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58
Looking for some guidance....I've become fond of M390, but have no idea what I need to start out with to begin my foray into "free hand" sharpening of this steel. I have a WSKO, no BGA, running freehand, and despite the fact I can get a decent edge on most knives of more traditional steel, I refuse to run my M390 blades on it. My opinion is that it's a steel far better served by a crisp, toothy apex, which I could never accomplish with my current set-up. No interest in guided systems. I want to do this under my own power. I'm just interested in opinions regarding what type of stone/coarseness/grits would get me on the right road.
Thank you.
 
That steel is a step above s30v. Procure a DMT plate with coarse on one side and fine on the other. Use a wedge to help hold an angle.
Sharpen on the coarse side, work up a burr. Flip it over and do the same on the other side. Save the swarf onto a flat pine board, rub it in and
use it as a strop, as a final step toward burr removal. Good luck, DM
 
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Crisp, toothy apex. Just that sentence alone could turn into a discussion involving pages upon pages of variable definitions and semantics. So I'll define that as a JIS #1000 (30μm) edge (YMMV). My personal choice for M390 would be an SPS II #240 for repairs and reprofiling of the edge bevel, an SPS II #1000 for edge bevel grinding/general maintenance and an Atoma 1200 to set (if so desired) a micro bevel. Not the biggest fan of coarse diamond media, but what DM suggested above falls in line with what I would also use for M390 with the added advantage of being a single plate solution.
 
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DON'T DO IT. DON'T GO FREEHAND. GET A PULL-THROUGH SHARPENER, THEY'RE SO MUCH EASIER!.

.....not really. :rolleyes:

I agree that a good starting point would be something like DMT stones. Here is a perfect example of a 2-side bench stone DMT with a holder that would be a good place to start. They also make a larger 10-inch size of these, if you prefer that, and they have additional stones you can add later like "Extra Coarse" for profiling and "Extra fine" for finishing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6MLOK/

Edited to add:
This can get spendy, but if you want to get a complete spread of basic grits for home freehand sharpening, I got this collection of 2 stones with 4 grits, about 5 years ago. They've gotten quite expensive, search around for price, but wow they work great.

Extra-coarse / Coarse
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/DMTW250CXNB

Extra-fine / Fine
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/DMTW250EFNB
 
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Truly appreciate the replies and advice. Is there a significant difference between the DMT continuous surface and standard (mesh) bench stones?
 
I find that the continuous provides more consistent feedback and reduces the opportunity for fine tips to lodge within the interruptions.
 
I agree with that ^. Plus, the plate is heavier and thicker with the continuous than the interrupted. Glue the little rubber feet on it and it won't
move when in use. Another item is the amount of cutting surface with diamond material is double on the continuous over the interrupted. Subtracting for the holes on the interrupted surface. To me you get more value in the product. So, be sure and factor that in. Good luck, DM
 
jav200dc said:
Truly appreciate the replies and advice. Is there a significant difference between the DMT continuous surface and standard (mesh) bench stones?
Click to expand...

I have versions of both. In my opinion the quality of plating on the interrupted surface is higher. Has a much faster break in period and seems to be more uniform out of box.

The continuous ones have a little better feel. I don't notice a difference in grind speed. This between the diasharp and duosharp lines. I don't much care for the standard interrupted surface blocks.
 
So, we have different experiences with these. I respect Heavy and know he has used them. I have both and won't purchase the duo-plates.
Look carefully at the price of these two type plates. On one style you'll get more material for your money. DM
 
I have the interrupted surface ones and they have worked great. I haven't tried the continuous ones so I have no point of comparison.
 
I have both - the dotted DMT stones and the uninterrupted stones and I don't think that I can tell a significant difference. Mind you that is mostly on steels without high carbide content (no Vanadium etc.) so that may be different. Also, breaking them in properly is crucial, and that is true for the finer ones as well.
 
I prefer the DMT interrupted to their continuous. The interrupted are very flat and leave a great finish.
 
maximus83 said:
DON'T DO IT. DON'T GO FREEHAND. GET A PULL-THROUGH SHARPENER, THEY'RE SO MUCH EASIER!.

.....not really. :rolleyes:

I agree that a good starting point would be something like DMT stones. Here is a perfect example of a 2-side bench stone DMT with a holder that would be a good place to start. They also make a larger 10-inch size of these, if you prefer that, and they have additional stones you can add later like "Extra Coarse" for profiling and "Extra fine" for finishing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6MLOK/

Extra-coarse / Coarse
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/DMTW250CXNB

Extra-fine / Fine
https://www.knifecenter.com/item/DMTW250EFNB
Click to expand...

Thank you for the links. A lot to consider. .

David Martin said:
I agree with that ^. Plus, the plate is heavier and thicker with the continuous than the interrupted. Glue the little rubber feet on it and it won't
move when in use. Another item is the amount of cutting surface with diamond material is double on the continuous over the interrupted. Subtracting for the holes on the interrupted surface. To me you get more value in the product. So, be sure and factor that in. Good luck, DM
Click to expand...

David - I appreciate your input relative to value, and your experience.

HeavyHanded said:
I have versions of both. In my opinion the quality of plating on the interrupted surface is higher. Has a much faster break in period and seems to be more uniform out of box.

The continuous ones have a little better feel. I don't notice a difference in grind speed. This between the diasharp and duosharp lines. I don't much care for the standard interrupted surface blocks.
Click to expand...

Honored with your response, sir. The perspective of a seasoned hand is infinitely helpful. I've been tempted by your "Washboard" system for quite a while...just never comfortable enough with my own impatience to try it.
 
awestib said:
I have both - the dotted DMT stones and the uninterrupted stones and I don't think that I can tell a significant difference. Mind you that is mostly on steels without high carbide content (no Vanadium etc.) so that may be different. Also, breaking them in properly is crucial, and that is true for the finer ones as well.
Click to expand...

Good info. Explain "break in".....and although my main reference was dedicated to M390, I do have blades of lesser vanadium content.

kniferbro said:
I prefer the DMT interrupted to their continuous. The interrupted are very flat and leave a great finish.
Click to expand...

Flat I need. If my result could only measure up to the capability of the stone.....thanks!!
 
jav200dc said:
Honored with your response, sir. The perspective of a seasoned hand is infinitely helpful. I've been tempted by your "Washboard" system for quite a while...just never comfortable enough with my own impatience to try it.
Click to expand...


Its helped a lot of folks with freehand, and makes working with wet/dry a totally different experience. Even with a big collection of stones, I still use mine for finish work on virtually every blade I sharpen.
 
If you're looking to go freehand and sharpen higher carbide steels, I would recommend sintered diamond stones over the DMT plates. DMT are coated stones, so there's a thin layer of diamonds over a metal base. For that reason, it's imperative you don't use a lot of pressure or you will wear them out very fast and strip the diamonds. DMT's quality control is also not great. I have a full complement of DMT stones and in my short time with sintered diamond stones, I much prefer the latter. Sintered stones feel more like sharpening with ceramics (unfortunately they load like them too), are not pressure sensitive (no break in period either it seems), and leave a finer finish comparative to the DMT stones. They act much more like waterstones than a DMT diamond plate. Naniwa, a Japanese company, makes some diamond waterstones but they're incredibly expensive (~$150 a stone).

The problem with the sintered stones is availability; no US company seems to make them, so they come from Russia/Ukraine. A great dealer here @Gritomatic sells them however. Konstantin has been awesome to deal with, and the prices are very reasonable. I got a set of them with my Hapstone Pro, and used them to freehand sharpen a Boos Blades Smoke TS1 that came with a terrible edge. I'm extremely happy with the results.
 
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