Real World Marbles Tests

Buzzbait

Gold Member
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Feb 25, 2001
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As many of you know, I’m big fan of Marbles knives and of convex grinds in general. So when Blademan asked for my input on the new Marbles Plainsman, I was overjoyed to help out. For those of you who haven’t been following the controversy, I’ll backtrack a bit and get you up to speed. Marbles knives have been produced using 52100 steel for years. They have exhibited stunning field performance, but have not reached the level of popularity that they so deserve. My guess is that this lack of consumer attention has to do with many factors. Marbles knives are very traditional. These have age old blade and handle designs, employ many natural handle materials, and sport convex grinds. This philosophy, no matter how good the performance is, seems to be viewed as more of a collector’s market than a competitor of today’s more modern designs.

In an effort to turn its image around, Marbles has recently made to a move to a new brand of steel. They call their new steel Alchemite MC. This is where the big controversy starts, just because of the name. Alchemite MC is not a known steel with a known chemical makeup. The name is also rather fantastic, unlike today’s more accepted steel names. And to top it off, Marbles claims that the new steel has a higher level of stain resistance than their old carbon steel alloy. They’ve not called it a stainless steel, but just say that Alchemite MC is stain resistant. This somewhat close-mouthed attitude on the part of Marbles has led to a great deal of conjecture by consumers, and no small amount of fear that Marbles is headed in the wrong direction.

Blademan was brave enough to ask for and receive a test sample of the new Alchemite MC in the form of a Marbles Plainsman. He posted his own thoughts ( http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=206430 ), and then sent the Plainsman off to me. Afterwards, the knife is off to a third party who is far more capable of testing than both Blademan and I put together.

I gathered a few blades together for the review, just so I had some helpful comparisons to make. I broke out my beloved Marbles Fieldcraft, as well as my BlackJack Small and a newly acquired Marbles Trailcraft. I do not own a 52100 Plainsman, so my findings are far from scientific. I had to take the various blade styles, lengths and steel thicknesses into account, and factor out the differences as much as possible. The Plainsman is made from a much thinner chunk of steel than the other knives, and has a very thin grind. The Fieldcraft is much more thickly ground from spine to edge. The Trailcraft is thinner overall than the Fieldcraft, but thicker than the Plainsman. The BlackJack Small is thicker at the spine, but equally thin at the edge as the Plainsman. Overall, I’d call the BlackJack quite close to the Plainsman for purposes of comparison.

The first few hours were spent trying to eliminate the variable of edge sharpness. I took each knife and put a large burr on the edge with 1000 grit 3M wet/dry paper, stropped on a hard surface. I reduced each burr with 2000 grit wet/dry paper, and did the final stropping with the hard cardboard back of a notepad. I did not consider any knife sharpened until I could do a slow push cut against the grain of a piece of copy paper. This action can only be done with a wickedly sharp and well polished edge, especially when three of the blades are made from almost ¼” stock!!! Try this test on your own knives when you have the chance. There is a big difference between shaving sharp and cross grain push cut sharp. I also examined each blade under a 30 power lighted scope, just to make sure that each knife was equally sharpened and polished.

Eliminating other variables was not as I expected. To my amazement, each knife had approximately the same size flat portion of blade, with wide ranging lengths and angles of upsweep to the tip. I quickly decided to do all testing on the flat portions of the blades. Leverage was a somewhat larger obstacle to overcome, as the 4 knives had very dissimilar handle shapes and lengths. I ended up holding each knife for testing, with my thumb always making contact with an equal amount of blade spin. While not perfect, this at least helped to lessen the influence of leverage on testing results.

marbles3.jpg


I won’t bore you with zillions of numbers, mostly because I didn’t bother to record them. I just made sure to perform an equal number of cuts with all the knives, and then see how the edges had faired. I started the battery of tests with a number of simple push cuts into a two pieces of wood. One was a big chunk of seasoned eastern red cedar. The other was large hunk of old red cherry. Both woods were very representative of real outdoor knife use. People don’t make fuzz sticks from ironwood. Red cedar and cherry are commonly found and used in the NorthEast for a variety of purposes.

Unfortunately, these tests proved to be very slow going, as they didn’t do much of anything to dull the blades. I tried pushing into some of the larger knots, but this also had very little effect on the edges. I also resorted to shaving down the pieces of wood, doing an equal number of strokes with all three knives. Such is the problem with these knives. They are all good enough for hard woodworking, and would require a huge amount of use to make a highly noticeable difference in the edge. The only aspect of the wood tests that seemed to significantly degrade the edges was a spot of cedar that still held its bark. Old dirty bark is a nightmare for knives, and dulls an edge quickly. Since I quickly ran out of bark, I switched to the next best thing. I had an old thick piece of leather sitting around, and began cutting equal numbers of thin strips with each knife. Leather is absolutely brutal for edge testing, and will test the wear resistance of any steel.

All in all, the four knives performed remarkably. Whether or not this has to do with the fact that all four knives had convex grinds, I do not know. I will tell you that they far outperformed almost all of the other knives in my collection. They kept their edge with no ripping or chipping. Even hard impacts tests on the cherry, with some purposefully done lateral prying had no serious effects. Each knife was the master of its job.

I did notice a few changes throughout the tests though. The edge on the Alchemite MC Plainsman blade rolled over a bit more than any of the 52100 blades, including the equally thin BlackJack Small. The rollover was not large though. The edge roll of the Plainsman was very hard to see without the use of a 30 power scope, but could be slightly felt by running my finger across the side of the edge bevel. Restoring the edge of Alchemite MC also proved more challenging than 52100. Resharpening required many more strokes on wet/dry paper than the 52100 blades needed. The Alchemite MC did have one noticeable advantage though. My 52100 blades had the tendency to develop a pesky wire edge while sharpening, which was tough to get rid off. The Alchemite MC lost its wire edge quickly, requiring much less cardboard stropping to get rid of it.

Overall, I found the Alchemite MC to be very good as a real world outdoor use knife steel. I’d bet that very few people would notice a difference between Alchemite MC and 52100, without doing a direct “blow by blow” comparison with an extremely abrasive substrate. While I’ve never had corrosion problems with my 52100 Marbles knives, I could see Alchemite MC as being optimal for some users if it is indeed more stain resistant. I didn’t personally do any stain resistance tests though, as the blade did not belong to me.

If I had my guess, I’d bet that Alchemite MC is similar to D2. My D2 Dozier has shown many traits in common with Alchemite MC. I believe that BG-42 and 440C would have rolled their edges much sooner than the Alchemite MC did, although I don’t have any BG-42 or 440C that is convex ground for comparison. The convex grinds of Marbles knives make it very hard to compare them with other brands, so I could be off base. Either way you slice it, I don’t think that Alchemite MC poses that big a change for the buyers of Marbles knives. I do prefer the 52100, but not by a large margin. I mostly just like the field sharpening ease of 52100. I have no problems with the wear resistance or impact resistance of Alchemite MC, and was actually amazed that a steel that is marketed as stain resistant, and ground so thin, could have tested so well.
 
Great Review Buzz.

From 52100 to D2... actually i think that is a pretty big change.. you go from a very fine grained steel to a rather coarse steel, from a very tough steel (52100 is spring steel on the rocks :D ) to a much less tough steel.

Now I'm a fan of both steels, and I use'm both. but I would prefer 52100 for larger blades and D2 for smaller... Maybe someone can do a bend test on them ?????? :D :D :D :rolleyes:
 
Buzz,

First of all, thanks for all your help. Secondly, nice review! It is indeed interesting to see how the knife performed in the real world as opposed to just trying to dull the edge. I agree with your opinion that this is not a bad steel at all.

I did have a chance to generate some numbers on the Fallkniven F1. I actually got slightly better edge holding from the new Marble's than I did from the F1's VG-10. It wasn't much, but it was still marginally better. As a benefit, the Marble's also cut a little easier as the edge was thinner.

The important thing to consider here is that most people use their knives in a similar manner in which you tested them. Not just to cut cardboard and rope to see how many cuts they get. If you were hard pressed to tell much of a difference between them, that is a good sign. The fact that the new steel took a little more time to shharpen is somewhat offset by the fact that it had less of a tendency to form a stubborn wire edge. Some people have a harder time effectively removing the burr than they do giving the knife a few more strokes when sharpening.

I do have one loaded question for you however, would you buy a Marble's in the new steel? :D
 
Hmmm.... Would I buy an Alchemite MC Marbles? Yes, I would. I'd probably search for a thin 52100 version of that model first, but I would have no problem living with an Alchemite MC version. That's just my take on it though. I'm used to 52100 and know exactly what to expect from it. Call me an old fart who's set in his ways, but I like to use what I feel comfortable with and know intimately. I've used 52100 extensively enough that I'd trust my life to it. I just don't have as much experience with Alchemite MC, so I’m not quite ready to make the move and put all of my 52100 Marbles in the safe just yet.

With that said, I am going to purchase an Alchemite MC Marbles for more testing. I may even grow to prefer it after some extensive use. It's very possible that people not used to convex edges would prefer sharpening the Alchemite MC.

Remember that D2 is just my remote guess, with no basis in fact. It could be anything, but D2 is the best semi-stainless that I have experience with. If Blademan feels that Alchemite MC outdistances the very respected VG-10, it could very well be that Alchemite MC is simply 52100 that has been tweaked to add a small amount of stainlessness. It held an edge MUCH better than I expected from a semi-stainless steel. It was really quite remarkable, given the fact that the Plainsman was ground so outrageously thin. I was skeptical of ANY steel not chipping out during my tests, with that thin a grind on the blade.

The Plainsman is an absolute scalpel in comparison to my 52100 Fieldcraft, and outperformed the Fieldcraft by a large margin with few apparent drawbacks. While the move to a thinner stock was very controversial at the time, it seems like it was a pretty good move. Think of it this way, and the whole Marbles situation doesn't look all that bad. If they are making more high performance knives now than they were a couple years ago (when my Fieldcraft was made), the company must be doing something right.
 
Late breaking news. I just took a 2 1/2" thick piece of birch that I was drying on the back porch, and used it to baton notches out of the cherry block with the Plainsman. No damage other than the usual minor edge rolling. Good stuff!!!
 
Buzzbait

Still I'm glad that I got my 52 100 thick Plainsman just before the change.

Ben
 
can you actuially see any difference, such as grain structure? How about etching the blades to see if there is any difference?

well if its better than VG-10 that must mean that it is at the very least, very good.

So when will we get the word on just how much more stainless the new steel is?
 
Well, all the news is good..Thanks for the information on the new steel Buzzbait, it is much appreciated.

I personally do not think I could tell the difference, so I guess I will look around and get myself one of the new Trailcraft with the safety grip handle.
 
Mike,

While not a big fan of rubber handles, the Marble's Safe Grip is actually pretty darn good.
 
Is their any other way to get a Marble's knife other than offering to test one and getting a test sample directly from Marble's? I have been trying to order a Marble's knife for a month and a half and still haven't gotten one.

I have an Ideal on order now from an internet dealer, but it is back ordered and the dealer has told me Marble's shipments are "sporadic".

If I do ever get that Ideal, I don't think I will try ordering any more Marble's knives.
 
I woudln't place the fault with Marbles, but with the dealer. If a dealer can't get a certain knife, they have no business advertising it. I'm very careful with Internet ordering. If a web site doesn't show me whether or not the knife is actually in stock, I email or call the dealer. I NEVER take it on faith that a knife is in stock or will be within a short period of time.

I'd cancel the order and place a new order with a store that actually has knives to sell.
 
Hello Buzzbait,

Thanks for the advice, but I do think the problem is with the manufacturer. My current order is with the second dealer I have tried, and he is not the first to mention having problems getting knives from Marble's. Awhile back another dealer told me he had quit selling Marble's knives due to the problems in dealing with that company.

Yet another company, which does show whether or not knives are in stock, was showing no Marble's knives in stock the last time I checked.
 
Great review, Buzzbait, many thanks.

If I could ask 2 questions, though.

1. Did you list the knives in your picture from left to right? I'm not familiar with the Marbles brand.

2. Do you normally remove the burr with stropping on notepad cardboard? That's interesting.

Thanks again!
 

1. Did you list the knives in your picture from left to right? I'm not familiar with the Marbles brand.

Here they are, from left to right.
1. Marbles Plainsman
2. Marbles Trailcraft
3. Marbles Fieldcraft
4. Blackjack Small

marbles3.jpg



[QUOTE

2. Do you normally remove the burr with stropping on notepad cardboard? That's interesting.
[/QUOTE]

If I'm after a very highly polished edge on a blade that needs sharpening, I start off with a coarse grit of wet/dry paper, and create my burr. I then move up to a finer grit, and gradually start to progressively make the burr smaller and smaller. As a finishing step, I use the cardboard as a strop. The cardboard will help remove those “micro-burrs” that sometimes form on an edge. You know what I mean; those tiny burrs that you can barely feel with on the edge of the blade. The cardboard also helps to polish the blade, and removes the world’s tiniest amount of steel.

If one of my convex ground knives just needs a minor touch-up, the cardboard alone works just fine. Cardboard makes for a very good strop, if your stropping technique on convex grinds is good. If not, something soft like a good loaded leather strop or wet/dry paper on a mouse pad may be better.


Knifenerd - Are you telling me that my knives are the cause of my quickly sprouting gray hairs? I thought it was my ex-wife!!!!
 
Buzz--I have one of those too (ex-wife) and I have gone totally gray. At least my gonads are still attached. The bright side is--there is nobody around to object to my numerous excessive and obsessive knife
purchases. "God taketh away, but he also giveth"(author unknown).
 
I took the other route. I ditched the wife that didn't like knives, and found a new one that likes to collect them. :D
 
with stacked leather handle. I had a well known smith do a little cleanup and sharpen on it and it looks almost new! I dont use it I just look at it. So they originally used 52100? BTW Im a newbie here on the site.

Dave
 
I'm not exactly ultra-knowledgeable on Marbles history. I thought that the Fieldcraft was a comparatively new model for Marbles, only dating back a few years since they started making knives again. But if yours is one of those 50 year old knives, I believe that they were made of 1095 carbon steel.

Here’s a pic of my boss’s old Marbles. His dad used it for skinning year, and now he uses it for the same duty. Marbles knives last longer than we do!!!!

marbles.jpg
 
The one I have is one of the originals. They did make these early on and when I got it, it looked a lot like the picture you posted except with stacked handle. I have a smith clean it up and minimaly and now it looks fantastic. I will post a pic when I get back in town.
 
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