really horrible question

R

Ryan M

Joined
Aug 18, 2001
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I've been working on a knife for a while (my first ever), and I'm about ready to grind. Problem is that I've already spent about 100 bucks on tools and junk, and can't afford a belt sander. Don't have a place to put one, anyway.

I managed to dig up an ancient disc sander drill attachment, so does anyone have any advice at all for grinding a 6.5" blade with this thing (aside from getting a belt sander and practicing a lot, both of which I intend to do, asap)?
 
What are you going to mount it on? A drill press would be really unhandy, and hand drills probably won't hold up to running hours on end very well.
If I was going to grind on a disc I would probably try to set it up horizontal. Its really just a matter of practice, and finding what you like. Buy a bunch of sandpaper and contact cement, or discs. Things will go better if your not trying to grind with a worn out disc. Don't stress out on the plunge, it can be cleaned up with a file. Just leave a little room, don't try to start the plunge right at the front of your handle. Get the bevels started and then work the plunge back cleaning it up and evening it out.Have fun.
 
Use a file. It doesn't really take that long with good files. These guys here just whine about it because they got spoiled with belt sanders.
 
Matt:

Thanks for the advice. I'm just going to use a hand drill (all I have), and grind for an hour or so at a time (that's about as long as my back lasts before I collapse in agony, anyway).


Belstain:

Using a file was my original plan, but the only files I can find in any of the stores around here start shedding their teeth after a half hour.
 
If your files are shedding teeth after a half hour your steel is not annealed. You got to heat it up to non magnetic and then let it cool slow in a bucket of vermiculite or dry sand if it is simple carbon steel. What kind of steel are you using? If you want to get started without much money get a copy of Wayne Goddard's "$50 Knife Shop", it tells you how to get set up for very little money.
 
It's D2, got it from texasknife.com. And I think it's the files' fault, because filing at some mild steel results in a bunch of little file flakes, too.
 
Ryan...,use a good file,you wont regret it,heck look around at a flea market or a yard sale...most of the times you can find great files for stock removal for mere pennys...good luck!
 
Alot of times you can pick up good files at the pawn shop. clean them up in kerosene. Most people throw them away before they are dull.Paul
 
Also if there are any used tool shops in your area they usually have old files laying around that you can buy for cheap that still have a lot of bite left. I picked up 10 files at a local used tool shop, rubber banded together for 5 bucks and all but 1 of them was in real good shape. And when you wear them out you can always use the steel to make knives or tools hehe.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I did one grind yesterday, started with files, but they didn't seem to bite into flat areas too well (least not without wearing out my thumb), so I finished with the drill. Looks pretty good, 'least to me. I'll probably be grinding the other side the same way, then round off the "corners" with files, for a convex edge. I'd post some pics, but I'm not a gold member, and my scanner doesn't really show the bevel that well, anyway.
 
Ryan,

The best way to use a file for stock-removal is by using a drawfiling motion: grab both ends in your hands, and pull towards you (if the tang of the file is in your left hand) or push (if the tang of the file is in your right hand.) Peruse this link:
http://www.dfoggknives.com/handwork.htm

It takes a bit to get used to, but it's the best way to stay flat.

Buy good quality files, such as Nicholson. Also, make sure that your steel is absolutely free from scale, as the scale is harder than the steel and will eat your files.

It goes surprisingly quickly...

JD
 
Sounds like things are going just fine.
I think some makers glue a peice of neoprene or rubber mat onto their disc and then gluing the paper to that. Might make grinding a little smoother, and you can chamfer the edge of the disc a little bit to get cleaner plunges and less scratching from the edge of the disc cutting deeper than the rest.
 
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