Reamer size for 1/8 inch holses

Nathan House

Nathan House

Joined
Feb 14, 2000
Messages
1,204
I am drilling 1/8 hole in my bolsters and tang If I am correct 1/8 is .1250,What size reamer should I use to open up the holes for a nice fit up with no slop.
Thanks for any input
 
Well i don't know about other's but i Drill under 1/8 and use a Reamer to Get a Good 1/8 Hole!! i find if Drilling with a Drill Bit the Hole can be "Off" just a Little and the Pin is "Sloppy"
 
Nathan, for 1/8" bolster pins, I use a 2/0 taper pin reamer. Some just use a straight pin type, but I like the added security of a taper. The part # from MSC is 02400992.
You want to put some dykem in the hole first, that allows you to see how far down you are reaming. Start reaming slowly, removing the reamer often, and checking the depth of cut. You want to stop before you get all the way to the bottom of the hole. If you run it to the bottom, it will be hard to make all the other holes the same, and chances are, your bolsters will get crooked when you set the pins.
1/8" = 2/0
3/32"= 4/0
1/16"= 6/0
Hope this helps.
 
Mike
what is dykem?Is it just Lay out dye?I like the lead in on the shoulder also.Why not just set the drill press up with your stop on it
so you know all the holes are reamed the same,That would solve the problem.
do you think that would work?
Thanks
 
Nathan,

That's a timely question. I had bolster nightmare last night. I used a 1/8 drill and the holes from my bit are oversized. It's a nightmare trying to get them to line up. I tried epoxying the bolsters in place to peen today. Got up this morning and somehow they shifted under the clamp.

Arrrrggggg.

I think I need to throw these bolsters away and make a new pair.

I'm tempted to do a Terry Primos thing (I saw he uses JB Weld in a tutorial). I was thinking about using hidden pins in the bolster and put it together with JB Weld, like Terry's guards. Then there's no pins showing to worry about.

Steve
 
steve
I found a trick that keeps your bolsters straight I put both bolster together,make sure that are flush,I then center punch them
and I clamp both bolsters and the knife all together,I drill both bolsters and the knife at the same time.therefore avoiding any holes beging out of line.Word of warning make sure you use a can twist clamp
or a nice size vice grip.if you use one that is to small it will kick the bolsters up on one side,I have tried several different ways on scrap and this is the set up I found that keeps everything square.
I don't know if anyone else does it like this but give it a try you
you may like it.also make sure you are drilling on a flat surface
if you don't your blosters will cock on you,I found that out also.
 
Originally posted by Nathan House
Mike
what is dykem?Is it just Lay out dye?I like the lead in on the shoulder also.Why not just set the drill press up with your stop on it
so you know all the holes are reamed the same,That would solve the problem.
do you think that would work?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Yeah, layout fluid. You could set a stop, it's just easier for me to do it the way I mentioned. I am reaming without the bolster being in a vise. I can quickly pick it up to look.
You want to drill the initial holes with whatever drill bit provides the best fit for the pins. The taper pin reamer will put a taper in the hole, so when you smack the pins, or however you expand them, the pin is wider at the top. Just makes for a more durable(heavy duty) installation. At least IMO.
Make sure if you go with taper pin reamers, that you don't go all the way to the bottom of the hole. If you do, it will be over 1/8", and as you expand the pins, they might not all expand the same, and it will result in the bolsters moving. That won't happen if the bottom of the holes is 1/8".
Another "secret" to no line bolsters is, make sure everything is clean, the pins, the pin holes.
Tim Herman said he has good luck just crushing the pins in a machinists vise. he doesn't taper the holes, but he said he's never had a problem doing it this way. I haven't tried it, but it sounds good to me. :eek:
 
Mike
Sounds like some good solid advise.Thanks
Nathan
PS I will have to post some of my work that I am doing now
Pratice is making me alot better.I guess it is like anything else
the more you do the moe you learn;) I would love to see some of your work Mike
 
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