Rebuilding Khukri Handle

[SamuraiDave]

Ok, (HUGE POST AHEAD)

I know I should be studying for class tomorrow, but this has been bothering me all week. I am rebuilding the last of the Daisen defects, a 18" AK, and I thought yall would like to know how it is going.

I dremeled the bevel off the buttcap, stuck that end only in boiling water for about 30 sec using a waterproof ski glove on that hand to keep the steam from burning me. I then held it at an angle against the linolium floor and knocked the buttcap off with a screwdriver.

I then placed the other end of the handle in the boiling water for a few seconds and put the screwdriver imbetween the little gap between the bolster and the handle and wiggeled it off by working myself around it. This took 3-4 trips between the sink and the boiling water.

Hint: Laha STINKS :barf: Leave the windows open! :barf:

After the Butcap and Bolster are off I used a pair of channel lock pliers to GENTLY dunk the handle into the water, still using the gloves to hold the uninsulated plier handles. After another 30 seconds I went to the sink and with the glove on one hand and a small hammer I worked to get the broken tang loose from the handle by hitting the base of the tang, where the buttcap used to be. This pushes the tang about 3/8" forward. YOU CANT REMOVE THE TANG ON YOUR FIRST TRY! This is my second time to do this and it is better to be gentle if you want to save the handle. The Laha in the center of the handle is still pretty hard, so get the tang a little loose and put it back into the boiling water.

Now, since the tang is pushed slightly forward, try to get all of the air out of the little gaps by moving it around under the water with the channel locks. After about a min of doing this, take a pair of channel locks and pull the tang out using your glove to hold the handle.

You have now just disassembeled the Khukri.

Now the interesting part. If the handle was wood and if you leave it out it is going to dry and crack. Remember Walosi's trick with the Murphy's oil soap? USE IT. I smothered the sucker with it, and tryed to get some inside with a few Q-tips. After a minute or two wipe it free and clean out the inside with more Q-tips.

I found that the tang was nowhere near straight. As a matter of fact there was a small wooden shim near the portion of the tang that was closest to the bolster and furthest away from the 'wall' of the handle.

I am also going to let this sit out for and get some air till I can get back to it sometime Sat. afternoon.

One more thing....Laha dosent stick to Teflon, I used my good pots because I never use the large one and I figured "what the heck", however it leaves a greasy oil slick on the water and at the water line that is a real pain in the butt to scrub out. Right now I have boiled 2 other potfuls in it and it is soaking in soap water...I wonder if HIKV can be ingested too???

 

[Walosi]

...containing both statements and speculation about the compund known as "laha". Before I cooked anything edible in that pot, I'd run it through several boiling water and soap sessions,and scour it out with peroxide just for good measure. And maybe throw it out afterward The condition of the wood will depend a lot on the humidity. If it is very dry, there could be cracks. If it is able to dry out slowly it should be OK. If you made any dents in the wood, and in places where they can't be sanded out, you could try to "raise" them. Cover the dent with a damp (wrung out) washcloth, and just touch the dented area with the tip of a hot steam iron - two seconds or less. May take three or four tries, but the dent should raise, and you can sand it and refinish to near-original. I've seen this done on fancy burled rifle stocks, and I've done it on less expensive ones, as well as table tops, etc. The wood where the dent was will be a bit softer than it was, but shouldn't show when refinished.

 

[Big Bob]

Thanks again for agreeing to do this. Will the tang present any special challenges (since it isn't straight)?

Bob

 

[SamuraiDave]

I dont think the tang will pose more problems. It is slightly curved up and down, but as you hold it in your hand it fishtails right abot 1/3 of the way from the bottom. I think it will be more than strong enough for the next 100 years once welded and epoxyed back.

There are not any 'major' cracks the handle, yet. The one that was already there has closed up alot, you really have to look for it. Although most of that is caused by swelling from the boiling bath, I am interested to see if the crack will stay closed up from the release of stress inside the handle, and being boiled to return it to its "normal" shape.( Just like steaming a dent.)

I plan on sanding it down a level and using the dust mixed with epoxy to fill whatever crack there is left. We'll see how this handle turns out, if it becomes unworkable I will start on a new one. No problem really, I need to learn eventually, it will just take more time.

As for the fit of the tang in the handle I plan on coating the shim in epoxy and letting it dry before epoxying it in place, just to add strength. I am not worried about the handle failing after putting it back together. Epoxy is some increadible stuff, and Khukris themselves are tough as hell.

Bob, if I get through with it and something happens. Give me a hollar, HI warrenty applies.

 

[Yvsa]

Great Job Dawi!!!!!!!
Nephew I doubt I would use the shim on the reassembly, but you can do what you see fit. The straight epoxy would be plenty strong enough IMO.

And as you said, "(HUGE POST AHEAD)"

Some very helpful tips.............
When the tang is all welded up, the handle all cleaned out, and made for sure that the handle is very loose on the tang, ie, it slides up and down easily and has a little play all around.
Make sure everything fits up as it should on a "dry fit"........
Using masking tape, tape the bolster in place, when it's solidly taped on use a single piece of the tape to completely cover the bolster, making it as smooth as possible around its top edge.
Tape all around the outside of the handle except for the portion going into the bolster using single strips of tape, getting each one as smooth as possible.
Doing so makes it all easier to work with when glueing up.......
Be sure there is no tape in where the joint is going to be, I know that sounds really simple and easy, but take it from my
experience.
Mix the epoxy and pour just a little into the bolster and slide loose fitting handle carefully down the tang and carefully set it in place in the bolster.
There should be just a very little epoxy ooze out between the bolster and tang.
Carefully wipe the epoxy off then using a piece of tape already torn off and stuck up someplace close by
place it around the bolster and handle joint to keep anymore epoxy from running out and also making the fit
solid.
Pour the tang full, replace the butt cap and keeper.
( You should have made sure that there's a little bit of tang sticking out the end of the keeper to peen over when finished. )
When the epoxy dries solid enough that things don't move around easily, but before it's completely cured carefully remove the tape and use a solvent to remove any epoxy that inadvertently got on the handle or blade, butt cap or keeper.
A thin blade, very sharp, helps to remove any epoxy that built up on the tape.

Dawi this is what I came up with after I did my first one. This method made everyting go very easy and with a lot less hassle.

"I dont think the tang will pose more problems."

You're right. It won't!!!!

 

[BruiseLeee]

Pics! Pics! Why are there no pics? This is interesting stuff

 

[SamuraiDave]

Brusie,

Sorry, no digital camera But I have a disposable with 20 left...so eventually you can see anything that is worth any importance. My collection, the BAS that has beed welded twice, pieces of this Khukri...etc, is all on the roll already. (Lets hope the quality of the pics is good.)

 

[Bill Martino]

By George, I think he's got it!!!

Tang failures are not fatal as Dawi has just demonstated again. And repaired properly the knife is actually better than new.