Recent experiences with pops 8670

N

Noel Laflamme

Joined
Nov 14, 2018
Messages
17
Hey, I was hoping to try out 8670 because of the reported durability of it but was curious if people have any recent opinions on the comparison between the supply from AKS and Pops. Wondered if maybe the initial discrepancies were a bad batch at Pops or something like that.

Worst case I'll just 5160 for the short sword I was going to use it for, but would love to give the 8670 a try after hearing a oot of people like it.
 
Noel Laflamme said:
Hey, I was hoping to try out 8670 because of the reported durability of it but was curious if people have any recent opinions on the comparison between the supply from AKS and Pops. Wondered if maybe the initial discrepancies were a bad batch at Pops or something like that.

Worst case I'll just 5160 for the short sword I was going to use it for, but would love to give the 8670 a try after hearing an oot of people like it.
Click to expand...
I’ve used both and have no complaints with either. I doubt you would be able to tell the difference between the two.
 
I agree with TheEdge01. As far as making a short sword, I doubt there will be a significant difference in either source of 8670, or 5160.
8670 has a bit more toughness in a large knife blade, which may not really matter in a short sword.

I would use 1075 personally. I've got a Scottish short sword in the shop to finish up with 1075/15N20 damascus.

Let's face it, a short sword will not get that much real world use, ... unless you are a boar hunter. Maybe chopping some brush to impress the buddies on a camping trip. I would use 1075 because of the ease of HT and sharp edge it takes. Properly tempered it will be more than tough enough. Where many make an error is making a sword at Rc60-62. Swords are normally Rc 55-58. That greatly increases their toughness.

For maximum toughness in a short sword, make it from san-mai with a core of hard steel like 1095/W2 and cladding of 1060/5160 or other lower carbon steel. If you have some wrought iron around it makes a great looking san-mai sword. Adding a strip of .010" pure nickel between the cladding and core will create a faux-hamon look.

If intended use is against Zombies, Elmax, Magnacut, 5160, 8670, 1075, 440 stainless, and damascus made from A-30 and pure nickel are all equal in cutting ability and toughness ;)
 
Hmm, i never considered 1075, and yeah, not expecting it to get much actual use, more want to make sure its durable enough incase someone decides to try it out on a branch or something.

Might be a good idea for me to just stick with 5160 for now since I have worked with it a devent amount, as tempting as the 8670 is... I love playing with new steels and heat treatments.
 
Also should probably clarify by short sword I mean a saber with a total length of about 27in, so 21ish blade. Basically the largest i can do in my kiln
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top