recommend a mechanical watch?

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I'd love to get a nice mechanical watch - either an automatic (self-winding) or a wind-up - but not super expensive. Roman numerals would be nice, but not a deal breaker. Any suggestions?
 
As with most things, you need to set a price range, but with mechanical watches especially. Not super expensive means a lot depending on who you ask. Super expensive can mean no more than $400 or no more than $100,000. Quite literally true. When you are getting a mechanical watch, because it is impractical, the idea of "practical" pricing goes out the window.

Remember also: the watch may be cheap, but then you will need to get it cleaned/repaired every so often, which may be more than the watch costs, or at least a considerable percentage of what it costs.

Finally, dressy or casual/tactical? Hamilton can be a good starting watch, but poljot is cheaper- but my wind-up poljot aviator from the early 90s just decided that the stopwatch should never stop, so it needs to be repaired. Again, I know this is disheartening, but remember: Mechanical watches are nuisances. Maybe they are charming, fun, and set you apart, but that doesn't take away the fact that they are nuisances. Treat them like true British cars: nice to look at, quirky, and not safe to rely on. That's why many collectors of both have multiples: so when one breaks, they can take another ;)

Come back with some answers, and best of luck with your horological ventures.
Zero
 
I'm thinking sub $400 for a price range. I don't really know where to start looking (I'll check the ones mentioned above). I do have a Steinhausen - yes, I know - it's the butt of many a horological joke. I got it as a gift a few years ago and I do like the style. It gains about five minutes a week, so I reset it every Sunday. I alternate between wearing it or a Citizen Eco-drive.

I'd like something of better quality than this, but not something that costs a mortgage payment.
 
I would suggest you look at Seiko in that price range. Their auto movement is very reliable and the diver models are built like a tank. You can check out chronograph.com to get an idea of what they offer.

Zero_Time said:
Mechanical watches are nuisances. Maybe they are charming, fun, and set you apart, but that doesn't take away the fact that they are nuisances. Treat them like true British cars: nice to look at, quirky, and not safe to rely on.
Click to expand...

I would totally disagree with that. I have worn mechanical watches (various models, various prices) 90% of the time since the late 80s and have only had one stop working in that time. I have a quartz watch that I bought in 2000 or so that has stopped at least twice I can recall because the battery died. I don't treat them gently at all. I'd pick a mechanical watch over a quartz one any day.
 
I second the Seiko recommendation. I wear a Black Monster automatic dive watch. Very well thought of on the watch forums. Less the $200 and the bracelet equals that on $1K watches.
 
Here is a Seiko automatic, with roman numerals and day/date for around $109.

The movement is rated for 15-20 seconds a day, but I have seen a poll that most owners are averaging 5 seconds a day, which could be after a regulation and is within the overated COSC specifications. This movement also enjoys a reputation for reliability and durability.

snze411.jpg


If you want to step up a little in price ($600), here is another Seiko with better features.

SPB009J1.jpg
 
I have had a Zeno in my watch rotation for about 7 years and it has been near flawless gaining about 4 second a day when wearing it and losing the same when in the winding case. My Seiko gains about 8 seconds a day and my Omega about the same. My Rolex is the best of the lot but it is a manual wind while the rest are automatics.

You might want to check out the Zeno line: www.zenousa.com
 
Generally speaking if it requires a battery, it isn't a mechanical watch. There are few purely mechanical watches still made. Even fewer are of high quality IMO. A 1950s vintage Hamilton 950 is about the best you will find. Some of the other Railroad certified watches are also VG buys, but they do require periodic maintenance and some safeguarding against shock, magnets, water, etc.. Most accurate mechanical watches are not very waterproof. Rolex makes some very nice ones, even waterproof self winders, but they are pricey and fakes abound. All mechanical devices require maintenance sooner or later as bearing points wear down. I'm having my Rockford RR pocket watch serviced now as I write. About a 2 month turnaround in a specialty shop, and as someone said, it costs almost as much as hunting down and purchasing another one. This one was last serviced in 1962, so it was over due. According to the markings the first servicing was back in 1908 and about every 4 - 10 years thereafter until I put it in a box back in the 60s. I took it out in the late 90s and used it intermittently until I noticed it was losing 10 minutes a week and realized it was time for a new cleaning and balancing. Of course a good mechanical watch can be an heirloom, not just a timepiece.

All that being said, when working I often wear a Seiko or a Bulova Diver's watch. As stated, they are built like tanks. My Seiko (purchased in the 80s) is off about a second a week, and the battery usually fails before the time discrepancy makes it worthwhile to reset it. The Bulova is very similar in accuracy. If you get a Seiko, my only recommendation is to discard the issue Seiko band and to change the band to one that has two lock catches instead of just one (I like the Speidel) and have the band fitted to your wrist (remembering that your wrist flexes when lifting and allowing for that in the fitting (too tight is not good)).
 
After sniffing around, I found some Seiko 5 series watches that I like. I also found an Invicta that was appealing, but I don't know if that is a decent brand.
 
I bought my brother a Seiko 5 for Christmas. He seems to like it and thinks it a good watch. I'd get one myself, but I like my watches on the bigger side. Seiko 5s tend to be a bit small compared to most watches nowadays.

I only have one mechanical, a Hamilton Khaki Automatic. Before I spent money on an Omega or a IWC I wanted to make sure I could deal with the idiosyncracies of mechanical watches. The Hamilton is an excellent timepiece for the money and is a great introduction to automatic movements.

gunsknivesandwatches004yk4.jpg
 
Hamilton makes/made some great watches. Especially back in the 50s and 60s before they went with the cheaper "swiss" movements.
 
You can find excellent Omegas Geneve Automatics in the $200-300 range from reputable dealers. This was a present from my father for my birthday this month, he knows I like the classic things in life.

coltomega.jpg
 
The Invicta watches have a pretty good reputation but they are also quite often counterfeited so be careful buying from anyone but a storefront dealer. E-Bay is ok as long as the seller has a good rep there and has a physical address and not a PO Box number.
 
if you're money conscious then you can't go wrong with one of the seiko 5 line. exc watch for the money.
 
I actually just went through this research and buying process. I ended up getting a Hamilton Kkaki Stainless automatic w/the 42MM face. So far I really like it. There are some nice pics of it and a short review here (not by me, just ran across it researching).

http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=33064

A friend of mine here at work is a serious watch collector. He says that it has quite a good swiss automatic movement for the price. I have 8.5" wrists, so the 42MM face looks good. If you have more normal size wrists, the 38MM face would look good. Either can be had online for ~$350.00. I also second the seiko divers recs.
 
I think the Seiko automatics are going to be a good bet for that price range. I think they are one of the best bang for the buck watches out there. If you want to bump up to the $500-$1000 range, the Marathon GSAR is a really nice watch, too. They go for about $650-700, I believe.
 
I will probably try to find a Seiko style that I like (I would prefer a leather band to a metal bracelet), but I am intrigued by the Invicta Lefty models with the crown on the opposite side (being a lefty myself).

Thanks for the good info!
 
Here's the scoop on Invicta: decent watch, but often seen as being a rip-off of rolex- people will sometimes think you are trying to pass it off as one. They're made in some asian country I believe. Essentially: a fine watch, but if someone will look at your watch beyond seeing what time it is, they may sniff in dismay. If you know watch snobs, I recommend AGAINST.

To the earlier comment refuting me: it's true. With mechanical watches, YMMV is the most true thing I can think of. Some people's mechanicals will never die. Other, they are almost DOA. Again- the point I'm making about Mechanicals is that they aren't the most convenient design available, although they may serve you just fine, maintenance is a lot harder than just getting it opened at a jewelers. I never meant to discourage you from mechanicals at all: I just like to be a little alarmist so that you go in with low expectations and come out pleasantly surprised. Remember: I write as much as possible with a fountain pen- so I might be a little impractical myself. Good luck, and keep us informed. Especially if you are trying to impress/pass inspection from whiny watch wearers.
Zero
 
under $500 i would get a seiko orange monster, over $500 a marathon TSAR, over $2000 a rolex GMT or sub.
 
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