Recommend a Pocket Stone for CPM 3v Scandi Grinds?

k_estela

k_estela

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Just wondering if you have a particular pocket stone you recommend for sharpening your 3v blades in the field. I was thinking about picking up a Fallkniven DC4 for the Scandis I currently have but wanted to see if there was a better option for the tougher 3v steel you use.
 
The best thing I have found is the extra fine diamond credit card size plate from Ragweed forge. I glued some leather loaded with green compound on the back.

For me at least it seems like that stropping really doesn't do a lot to the 3v, it's too hard, but I like the leather on one side because the diamond scratches the bevel some and then you can sharpen it on the diamond and then polish the bevel back using the leather, or the leather with some 1500 grit wet/dry laid on top.
 
hollowdweller said:
The best thing I have found is the extra fine diamond credit card size plate from Ragweed forge. I glued some leather loaded with green compound on the back.
Click to expand...

+1. I use this as well, don't remember if it is extra fine or not, but whatever, it works well. I've had much more luck with the diamond type products than stone on this 3V.
 
What are the dynamics of stropping a scandi edge? Are you going along with the bevel or in effect putting a tiny convex on the edge? Hope this isn't off topic.
 
That's the beauty of a scandi grind. Stropping is purely for removing the burr.

You can strop an edge done at 120 grit or 2000 grit...and still have a sharp edge and a flat scandi grind.

Just make your passes progressively lighter (even if only using one stone) until you have a thin but significant burr and then strop it away.


I imagine if you work it long/hard enough...you could inadvertantly convex the grind...but that would take some effort.


Dan
 
That looks like a good one, too. :thumbup:


Dan
 
I like the Fallkniven DC4 stone, fine diamond on one side, ceramic on the other, jsut thick enough to hold without your finger tips getting in the way.

It's not great for fixing chips and such, but it does put a very good finish on the edge, and leaves it polished enough to whittle hair.

Only complaint is that the diamond plate wasnt adhered to the ceramic as well as it could be and came off, so I had to epoxy it.
 
I like these here for most field tasks.

http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=44718

DMT Diafold Coarse/X-Coarse
DMT-FWCX

Sharpeners

DMT double sided Diamond sharpener with two grits, Blue-Coarse (45 micron) and Black-Extra Coarse (60 micron).
$29.97


I own and have also used this one with equal results and both seem to last a long time.

http://www.discountcutlery.net/en-us/dept_21236.html

Eze-Lap Eze-Fold Combination Diamond Sharpener
$US30.53

Eze-Lap Eze-Fold Sharpener Fine & Coarse Grit

Eze-Lap Eze-Fold Fine/Coarse Combination Diamond Sharpener. Fine and coarse grits. Each stone measures 4in. x 3/4in. Gold plastic handles. Flip stones out for sharpening. Fold back for storage. Made in USA

EZL520

I used these on other 3V blades with great results so I'm sure they will work on these too. One thing I have noticed using the diamond sharpeners is that they wear down pretty smooth after time so I always buy the course and extra course when I can. I really don't like buying anything below a medium in diamond sharpeners because after you've used a course a good while it seems to me to wear down to about where the fine and extra fine are to begin with. DMT seems to have just a tad better courseness life to me but both mine are pretty old and both work quite well even after being worn down quite a lot over the years.

I've also been known to buy the singles of the Spyderco Medium gray sharpening triangles and breaking them on purpose and grinding down the sharp edges. I then coat that with acrylic resin or goop contact cement and form it to a ball and let that set up. Great little back packers there too both cheap and effective!

http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=3596
STR
 
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