Recommend me a new edge for my skinny ash & AD?

TrailWolf

TrailWolf

Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
2,809
Hey guys, so I'm thinking its about time to send my skinny ash and MAD to the spa to get a good edge put back on them (they both came with uneven grinds on each side as well as uneven grind heights).

With that said, whats the general consensus - should I ask them to go ahead and put a basic convex edge on it (yes I own a strop)? Is there any specific details I need to add (like how thin or high the edge should be) - or will the good folks at Busse need no direction other than I want it convexed? I'm not too knowledgeable about edge lingo so looking to you all for advice.

What are thoughts on a traditional 40 deg V grind on these blades? Would make life super simple with my sharpmaker...

Both will be used for more slicing than chopping - general hiking/camp chores - and my MAD is also my edc...

Thanks for the guidance!
 
I would convex the Skinny (mine is and I love it) and v grind the AD. That way you can limb a tree in lickety split fashion with the ASH and still use your Sharpmaker on the AD.:thumbup:
 
Hey there!

That makes good sense - thanks for the advice :thumbup:

I'm thinking maybe I should also send in my GW while Im at it...
 
Better check with the shop first. I spoke with Garth at Blade West and he said it would be end of October before he had time to work on my ASH-1. The lead time could be end of November by now.

Good luck getting your blades redone.

Les.
 
another vote for convex both. Just so danged easy to keep hair popping sharp. Since I started convexing my edges, I seriously don't even know where my fixed angle sharpening system is right now. I have not used it in years.

Convexing my fat Ash1 made it much more efficient at chopping and slicing.

My GW, and SS and FBMLE are all convexed.

You can seriously do it your self with the mousepad sandpaper if you have the balls to.

It does take some to try it on your first piece of infi. Fist do a couple of cheap knives to get the hang of it. I did one factory folder for practice then did my SS, after I modded it to a straight edge, then I convexed it. Then I did my Ash1, then did the FBMLE.

It will be much easier to have some one do it professionally however. It takes some time.
 
Bigfattyt said:
another vote for convex both. Just so danged easy to keep hair popping sharp. Since I started convexing my edges, I seriously don't even know where my fixed angle sharpening system is right now. I have not used it in years.
Click to expand...

I wholeheartedly agree with this statement. I had the Sharpmaker, with diamond and Ultrafine rods, and I only still use the UF rods for quick touchups, but I dont use them in the base.....

I tend to convex every knife I have. I have posted numerous pics of my knives, and my techniques..... PM me if you have any questions.......
 
Generally I think it useful to develop your own skill set on sharpening knives....I dont know if this helps but here is how I did it...I used the sharpmaker to do a 40 degree inclusive V grind using a magic marker as a reference aid. Then I used the secondary 30 degree V grind to give the edge a secondary bevel....again using a marker...then having bought a cheap 1x30 belt sander and having practised a bit on some cheaper knives I used the marker trick again and convexed the edge rounding the secondary bevel into the primary and checking all the time the removal of the marker ink and judged the right angle to hold the knife...

Remember to move the point away from the belt by pulling the knife away once the edge of the belt reaches the point...don't draw the knife across the belt on the point as this will round it off...there is a technique to this which involves lifting the knife as you get to the belly of the blade to ensure a constant angle on the belly to the point...if you don't you end up with a more acute angle on the belly....like I said practise on a cheaper knife...but once you have done a few of these the "knack" comes to you and you can then sharpen free hand.

The thing to get right is the belts you use...do not practise with a heavy grit...you remove too much steel...better to practise with a polishing belt so little steel is removed and you get to see the results better because of the "shine" created. You can also get a leather strop belt for a 1 x 30 sander which enables you to retain edges after re-profiling without undue steel removal. Use the green chrome paste...

Once you get the hang of it it is a great help to anyone having multiple knives in a collection....it would take "hours" to do the same work keeping a collection in tip top order if you had to do it by hand on stones or mouse pads.
 
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