Recommendations on lightening a pull

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Sep 8, 2009
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Perhaps a dumb newbie question, and if so you have my preemptive apologies. But, is there any way to lessen or lighten the tension on a backspring to lighten the opening pull on a knife so that it isn't as much a thumbnail shredder?

Thanks.
 
My thumb surgery did me no good, and I was wondering the same just this morning. Don't think there is much we can do though, but hope we get some tips.

This morning I opened my Case Swayback to the half stop position, and plan to leave it there for months. I have no idea if that will help at all, but wanted to try something.


The only two slip joints I can open with no problem are the two I had made with a very light pull.
 
My thumb surgery did me no good, and I was wondering the same just this morning. Don't think there is much we can do though, but hope we get some tips.

This morning I opened my Case Swayback to the half stop position, and plan to leave it there for months. I have no idea if that will help at all, but wanted to try something.


The only two slip joints I can open with no problem are the two I had made with a very light pull.

Ken...that won't help at all as the spring at half stop is in the same position in all three positions. What you could do..and there's no guarantee this will help....is position the blade on one of the back corners (1/4 or 3/4 position) and leave it there for months (or maybe years) to overload the spring. I honestly don't think this is a good answer either but you will feel good doing it. ;)

You don't want to hear the messy way to fix this problem. :thumbdn:
 
You can grind the backsprings down. This is best left to professionals.
If the springs are properly made, leaving the knife open/partially open will have no effect.
 
Ken...that won't help at all as the spring at half stop is in the same position in all three positions. What you could do..and there's no guarantee this will help....is position the blade on one of the back corners (1/4 or 3/4 position) and leave it there for months (or maybe years) to overload the spring. I honestly don't think this is a good answer either but you will feel good doing it. ;)

You don't want to hear the messy way to fix this problem. :thumbdn:

Thanks Kerry. After posting this morning I realized keeping it in the half stop would be no different than if closed:o:p

I'll try it on one of the corners. Like you said, it may not help, but I may as well try. Heck I may pull it out of the safe in 5 years and find it a little lighter.


The main blade of my fathers old Case trapper is supper light, and the spey he never used much is very stiff. He used it as a work knife for many years though, and I don't have that kind of time even if I could open them,lol.


BTW- You just don't know how much I appreciate my KHnutbuster you made for me with a light pull:thumbup::thumbup: If not for yours, and the one Rick made me I wouldn't have a slipjoint to carry.
 
You can grind the backsprings down. This is best left to professionals.
If the springs are properly made, leaving the knife open/partially open will have no effect.

That's the messy. :D

Bill's right...knives have been left open in display boards for years and still maintained their springyness. The only thing that doing my suggestion will do is make you feel good. It's on the internet now so it has to be true. :D
 
Thanks Kerry. After posting this morning I realized keeping it in the half stop would be no different than if closed:o:p

I'll try it on one of the corners. Like you said, it may not help, but I may as well try. Heck I may pull it out of the safe in 5 years and find it a little lighter.


The main blade of my fathers old Case trapper is supper light, and the spey he never used much is very stiff. He used it as a work knife for many years though, and I don't have that kind of time even if I could open them,lol.


BTW- You just don't know how much I appreciate my KHnutbuster you made for me with a light pull:thumbup::thumbup: If not for yours, and the one Rick made me I wouldn't have a slipjoint to carry.

The reason old used knives seem to have light spring loads is due to wear of the tang and the spring, not from spring weakening.
 
The reason old used knives seem to have light spring loads is due to wear of the tang and the spring, not from spring weakening.

I didn't even think of that, and I've had slipjoints since a kid(loong time ago). I should have thought about that since thats a no brainer!:o


I really need to start thinking a second when i post before hitting the enter key:p
 
As opposed to the 'messy' solution of simply grinding the backsprings, might the tension be lessened a bit with some strategic filework on the springs? I have one or two fileworked knives (bought 'em that way) that seem to be a bit lighter in backspring tension, and have wondered if the filework had something to do with it. If it'd work, might be a way to dress up the knife and (slightly) ease the pull at the same time?
 
As opposed to the 'messy' solution of simply grinding the backsprings, might the tension be lessened a bit with some strategic filework on the springs?

I was just thinking that, or maybe just the tang, or both.

I've said enough dumb things already though, so I was gonna think more about it before I mentioned it:p




Edit- well, I was going to file on the tang a little, but my smallest file(a little rat tail) wouldn't quite fit between the liners!

I'm going to try to find a thin file this week and give it a try. If I try a tiny bit at a time maybe I won't totally trash the knife,lol.
Kerry, does this have a chance at working???
 
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OWE was suggesting decorative filework. The knife has to be disassembled for this. It would be simpler to just grind the backsprings.
I doubt you will be able to file the spring from the inside.
 
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