Recommended Pins?

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fishrman1

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Nov 18, 2020
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Have made 4 fillet knives out of kits so far. With the kits came brass pins. I might like making these enough that I will probably make another one or ten? I have some friends that would like to have one but, as a retired guy that enjoys my free time, I don't really want to have to make any. I will just make them when I feel like it or want to give them as gifts. I ran into some other pin material and was wondering if I should try something different or what others like to use. For pins, on my other knives, I used a brass material and in searching for those came across pins made of micarta. Now, I am wondering if I would be advised to use the micarta type of material or stick with the brass or something else. I am sure there is some info. on this site somewhere regarding what pins are best used but I haven't ran into that yet. Thanks for any help.
 
That's a bit like asking a bunch of drunks what brand of beer is the best.
It is all personal preference
 
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fishrman1 said:
Have made 4 fillet knives out of kits so far. With the kits came brass pins. I might like making these enough that I will probably make another one or ten? I have some friends that would like to have one but, as a retired guy that enjoys my free time, I don't really want to have to make any. I will just make them when I feel like it or want to give them as gifts. I ran into some other pin material and was wondering if I should try something different or what others like to use. For pins, on my other knives, I used a brass material and in searching for those came across pins made of micarta. Now, I am wondering if I would be advised to use the micarta type of material or stick with the brass or something else. I am sure there is some info. on this site somewhere regarding what pins are best used but I haven't ran into that yet. Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...
I like micarta pins more then pins from steel .They are light , look good almost on any scale material and are more then enough strong . Only problem is i need to make them on lathe
 
You can peen brass and other metal pins- making a mechanical bond.
I would never rely on epoxy to hold flat handles on a flat tang. If you are going to use pins, it takes about a minute to peen them.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
You can peen brass and other metal pins- making a mechanical bond.
I would never rely on epoxy to hold flat handles on a flat tang. If you are going to use pins, it takes about a minute to peen them.
Click to expand...
Can you describe how that should be properly done?
 
Any mechanical fastener is better than any glue.
Peening is done by leaving the pins slightly high, and tapping them gently around the circumference and on the top to spread the pin on the top to hold the scales in place. Pins can be left proud and polished, or ground/filed flush with the scales.
 
Micarta and G10 pins can be nice for light colored handle material that stains easily. I have had issues with the dust from metallic pins getting into the pores of the light colored G10 materials. The micarta and G10 colored pins were much more pleasant for handle finishing.
 
When I use Micarta/G-10 pins I make the hole a smooth sliding fit ... not snug at all. When gluing up the scales I make sure the epoxy goes down the pin holes. I slip the pins in and out until I am sure they are well coated with the resin. Then I clamp the scales up and let it all cure.

TIP:
Don't clamp the scales hard or you will squeeze out all the epoxy. A good trick is to grind a slight hollow on the underside of the scales up to about 1/8" from the edge. This creates a reservoir for the epoxy so there will always be sufficient resin after clamping to make a good bond. I usually do it to the tang as well.
 
With a dowelplate you can make your own pins out of wood in a drillpress.
You can make your own dowelplate
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
When I use Micarta/G-10 pins I make the hole a smooth sliding fit ... not snug at all. When gluing up the scales I make sure the epoxy goes down the pin holes. I slip the pins in and out until I am sure they are well coated with the resin. Then I clamp the scales up and let it all cure.

TIP:
Don't clamp the scales hard or you will squeeze out all the epoxy. A good trick is to grind a slight hollow on the underside of the scales up to about 1/8" from the edge. This creates a reservoir for the epoxy so there will always be sufficient resin after clamping to make a good bond. I usually do it to the tang as well.
Click to expand...
Good tips! I also read, somewhere else on this site that you shouldn't hollow out the scales.
 
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fishrman1 said:
Can you describe how that should be properly done?
Click to expand...
First drill holes in both scale . Then put them on the knife with a temporary short pins/ shorter then scale + tang thickness/ then shape scale to match tang shape .Take the scale of tang , join them with pins and sand front part /from ricasso side/in shape you want .Then assembly all again/with same pins/ and shape handle as you want to final dimension and shape .Take scale off , cut NEW pins so they are longer about 1 or 1.5 mm then thickness of scale and tang . Mix some epoxy and put it all together .When epoxy set peen pins and sand them little to flush with scale ....
 
I can't talk to micarta or G10, but from my general experience a wood dowel properly glued into a wood scale is not going to separate, without destroying the scales/dowels. Wood to wood glue joins are often stronger than the wood itself.
I think anything with a reasonable tensile strength will work fine as a pin
 
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