Recommended Sharpening Systems?

revnewk

revnewk

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Jan 24, 2006
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OK, guys. What are your favorite sharpening systems for your Buck knives? More specifically, let me talk price points. What sharpeners do you recommend for:

1. Under $50
2. $50 to $100
3. Over $100

Thanks!
 
A three stage oil stone system. Cost ??, But it works for ALL edged tools and weapons. And for a super sharp edge a leather strop. This works on stainless as well, you just use the coarse, medium and the fine as the strop. The main thing with sharpening is the angle, you must get that right. This has always worked for me. I'm sure there are others, diamond sharpeners and whatnot. I don't like the ceramic sticks with a set angle for Buck, because of the hollow grind.
 
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That would be Norton's IM 313 system (w/ larger stones). It retails for 200 w/ shipping. It is used extensively in commercial applications. meat markets, deli's and processing plants, ect.. A excellant system utilizing SiC and India type stones. DM
 
Thank You DM, I was hoping you would jump in again.

DM has come thru again, a wealth of knowledge.
 
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sass, I think you have my number. Thanks.
Mine is a 1970's mfg. and I purchased the same stones from Norton. These are a serious system for sharpeners. When really a Norton IB8 India combination stone will take you a long way in freehand sharpening. Add a strop along the way and you can handle most any knife. These retail for 20$. It is pictured just below the metal box. DM
 
I have a big triple oil bath rig from my cousin who is a retired butcher. It's bigger than DM's and in a black heavy plastic base. I'm going to guess it to be 20-30 years old. It does an amazing job so long as you know what you're doing. I've used it for everything from small kitchen knives to machetes. Free-hand sharpening isn't for everyone and it takes practice for consistency. I have no idea what it cost new or what it would cost today to replace. I get it out once a year around the holidays to work over the kitchen knives.

I use my Spyderco SharpMaker almost exclusively though. It's easy and works great on just about every knife of every steel I have. The basic kit will be <$100 but I added the diamond stones to mine for when things get desperate. Great system for ease of operation!
 
Pokt, I'm familiar with the one you describe. Measure the stones and let us know their size. Can you post a photo of your 313? People like Sharp Maker, Edge Pro and other guided units. They will put a edge on. Correct, freehand isn't for every one. DM
 
For a decent handy tri-stone smithsproducts.c*m has a tri-hone that would work for most applications, about 30 bones. I use something similar on my Buck 110 when I'm cleaning game. It is very portable and easy to use and if something happens to it ie.. drop and crack a stone, you're not into it for that much. It has 6" Arkansas oil stones.
 
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sass, right on. A 6" stone can do much sharpening. A combination stone is even better. I use a coarse stone a lot in setting the edge bevel and finish it on the finer stone. I take it up to 400-500 grit when finishing the edge, sometimes less. This leaves a blade with a good using edge. I've noticed Buck knives come out of the box with a coarse edge. Perhaps around 200 grit. DM
 
As a matter of fact, I just got done using a smith on 9 hammer forged butcher knives. Man are they sharp!!

So DM with us talking about sharpening stones and how to use them, what do you think these young guys think of us taking more than 1 minute to sharpen a knife?? Their so use to the 30 second solution they wouldn't know what to do? We didn't have the luxury of diamond stones, ceramic sticks when we were young.

You can't beat that smith for under 30 bones.
 
sharpmaker. in a way its free hand except the angle is picked already, but.......

no bevel is perfect on both sides or along the entire edge so you have to either reprofile to use the sharpmaker or adjust your angle just like sharpening freehand.

that aside i have a lansky, dmt, stones, belt sander, and a wicked edge. ultimately other than reprofiling on the wicked edge or belt sander, i prefer the sharpmaker for touch ups and basic quick sharpening.
 
sass, this evening I sharpened all our kitchen knives on my 313 Tri-hone. I sharpened four knives in 30 minutes, a 8" sabatier, 7'' carver, 6" boning and a 3" paring knife. These weren't abused but we use them, so they need sharpening once every 2 weeks. That's about as fast as I can get freehand sharpening. Working up a burr then shearing it off for a clean edge. I think freehand sharpening allows for much technique and variations on the type of edge. I had a guided system (Blade Masters) but couldn't warm up to it and went back to freehand. That's the way my Grand Father taught me and later cutting meat we did it the same way. So, I'm partial to this method. Other methods can get it done faster but it can create a convex edge (paper wheels)or grind off too much or burn the edge as with electric belt grinders. But it's hard to carry one of those in your back pocket. DM
 
Believe it or not the first knife I ever bought was a Buck 119 and of course I thought it needed sharpened, age 12 or 13, so I studied what Al or Chuck Buck had wrote in the instructions and did it to the best of my ability. It actually turned out ok, I checked it out the other day and I thought I had done a pretty good job, yes I still have the 119.
On another thread about chickens or something I wrote about working at a corrugated paper plant, one of many jobs I had there was the corrugator operator and you had to make your own paper knife. I started with a broken motorized hacksaw blade and we had a 10" stone mounted in a frame and I went to work. That's how I honed, no pun intended, my sharpening skills. I have a Buck sharpening jig from the very early 70's late 60's I used it once and just put it back. I prefer freehand it takes longer, but you can usually fix your mistakes. I have ran into way too many "grinder" sharpened blades and it just makes me cringe. jbMonkey sounds like he is the exception to the rule though.
 
I use a little Smith's Pocket Pal. Just pull your knife through the carbide or ceramic V a few times and your good to go. I bet every skilled sharpener just raised an eyebrow. Well, it works for me in a pinch. Most of the time though, I will use a round ceramic rod freehand. If I need more umph, I use an EZE-LAP Diamond "M" Round Diamond Sharpener with Brass Handle (which looks cool, like a brass bolster 110). I have a ton of other stuff, but I'm done using anything flat unless I have to. I need something round. I need rods. To each his own.
 
those carbide v pull through types seem to tear the edge up badly and turn it into a messy ultra mini serrated knife. sure cuts or rather saws but jagged on a very tiny hard to see level without a loupe and takes more work to fix later. i get the speed side of it though, but i just touch up every day or so and a few passes on the white ceramic sharpmaker or any ceramic stone or higb grit stone and hair popping sharp again. the nice part of many choices is just that.
 
So true, very risky. I go very light pressure on those things and only a couple of passes. I do try to stay with my ceramic rod and doing regular touch ups.
 
Yeah to each his own makes the world go round. If everybody did the same thing we wouldn't be here talking about it.
You have to watch those pre set ceramic sharpener. I had gotten a John Ek fighter a month ago or so, the blade needed to be just touched up for my liking I grabbed one of those ceramic's that I use to sharpen the letter opener and due to the way they made their edge and the thickness of the blade the sharpener actually scratched about 3/32" above the edge. Now I have to buff it out and use a stone, which I should have done to start with, to get it back to pristine and the ceramic sharpener is now in the trash.
 
I went with Boride abrasives CS-HD stones,6" L 1/2" W 1/8" Thick 320-1200 grit and sharpen like using a file... Glued the stones to thin wood for support... Always used a smiths system for 425M 110 buck knife and 440C western knife in the past...
 
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