Recovering from a deformed eye

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Nov 26, 2007
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I have one of the small Norlund Hudson Bay hatchets that I'm trying to get back to working order and somewhere in the past it looks like it took a hit to the side of the axe right near the top. In doing that, and it may have been done intentionally to tighten it, it pinched the eye closed just a bit at the top. It pinched it a bit closed and in doing that pulled the blade slightly off center. I intend to make this one a user for backpacking so I could always just use it as is, but has anyone ever been able to spread the eye out a little to get it back to shape? And if so, how? I'll try to get some pictures posted shortly. As always, thanks!
 
With something like that you may be best off to sell it as is to a collector for a tad less money and buy something that's ready to go. Norlund's (especially the Hudson Bay Patterns) sell for a pretty penny in most conditions. To fix the eye you'd more than likely need a forge to heat the eye up and work it back to shape but as I said, I wouldn't do that if ti was me.
 
That's not the reply I wanted to hear, though it has crossed my mind. I was hoping I could cold set it, or just use a propane torch or something. Maybe I'll wing it and post the results. It's going to be a backpacking hatchet so it'll get some use, though I'm not one to abuse my tools. Here are the pictures. Still have the original handle soaking in some BLO right now, though I need to make a new wedge for it. Looks like the wedge was gone so the previous owner just put about 3 screws in it. With the screws out and no wedge I took the head off with my hand.

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I would think you would have to make a mandrel and hot forge the eye back open over it to fix it properly. If you had an oversized handle to fit to, could you custom make an offset to compensate for the changed bit angle?
 
That doesn't look too bad. The wood will probably fill the space ok as it's wedged and it should work fine. Especially as you shape the handle to fit the space.
 
. . . in doing that pulled the blade slightly off center. . .

. . . I was hoping I could cold set it, or just use a propane torch or something. Maybe I'll wing it and post the results.
. . .

Please do. I'd be interested to know what works or does not work. I have a head bent similar to yours, but the eye seems ok. thanks
 
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Can't remember where or who did it...But they used a railroad spike to open up an eye and said it worked well for them.

Just my .02, Tom
 
I would heat up the head and belt a handle drift back through the eye. I have straightened a number of bent eyes like that. otherwise take your time when you fit a new handle and rotate it in the eye as you put it on. You have to be very careful when you do this as we all know, you can't replace the wood once you have taken it off, other than to use packing.
 
I would be more concerned about the overall curve to the head.

That is really the only thing that concerns me. The haft will fit fine, and honestly I don't think it's curved to the point of being unsafe to swing, especially for the type of small kindling sized swings that I'll likely see backpacking.
 
If you have the stuff available to heat it up I'd suggest heating it up and using a railroad spike to open the eye up if you intend to use if (just to be safe). If you have a blow torch to use ('d wrap the bit of the axe in a wet rag to preserve the temper while you heat the eye up and straighten it.
 
When you're only straightening or bending steel and not changing its cross section (forging) the work can be done as less than forging temperatures (~1500°F). Steel will bend pretty well at black heat. Recall that this eye undoubtedly became deformed with no heat applied at all. It will surely go back at less than forging heat.

If you don't want to have to re-heat-treat your hatchet then you must protect the temper of the bit during any heat. You can do that by tying or clamping a wet rag around the bit. A propane or mapp gas torch will provide enough heat for what you need to do. With the rag in place, heat just that side of the eye with the torch for a minute or two. Then open it with makeshift drift, a cold chisel or the aforementioned railroad spike can do the job. Drive it in as necessary from each side. If you lack an anvil with a hardy hole you could work over a cinder block or any heat resistant solid object with a hole in it for your drift. An open bench vise would do as well. And lacking blacksmith tongs you could make do with a pair of vise grips. You'll likely need 3 hands for this operation so you'll have to buy your buddy a beer for lending a hand. A glass of bourbon will also suffice. ;)
 
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