Recurve Sharpening Tips

halden.doerge

halden.doerge

I'll Sharpen Your Knife
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Aug 17, 2014
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I've got a ZT 0220 arriving tomorrow and I know I'll be wanting to put a new edge on it with my WE right away (addicted to the polish...). However, I have very little experience with recurves so far. I'm curious to hear any tips, especially those that are specific to sharpening on the WE (looking at you @razor-edge-knives !).

Thanks all!
 
Doing a recurve edge needs the corner edge of the stone rounded. Or a round ceramic rod. Something like that. Can the mechanics of a WE
do this? Tilt the stone slightly so just the corner comes in contact with the blade edge? DM
 
I've found that an oval diamond chef's 'steel' works very well for recurves, especially when something a little more aggressive is needed to repair or thin the edge. They're often around ~ 600 grit, and in lengths of around 10" - 12"; the wider oval cross-section is usually a pretty good fit for recurves, putting a wider swath of abrasive in direct contact on each stroke. For other minor touchups, any round rod sharpener, such as a ceramic rod, will work well also. The ceramic rods can be used for additional refinement to higher finish, if desired.

Either of these rods can also be held 'Sharpmaker style', either by hand or in a self-made, angled fixture, if that type of setup is easier to use for some. Or alternatively, they can also be supported horizontally and used like a bench hone. Not too expensive either; I've got two of differing brands in 10" and 12" lengths, and didn't pay more than about $26 for either one of them. I think the cheaper of the two was about $22 or so.


David
 
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Again, anything that is specific to the Wicked Edge system would be most helpful. Thanks all!
 
That's a pretty gentle recurve... shouldn't be an issue on the W.E. Here's my .02...

As already stated... primarily the edge of the stone does the work. When I do one, I start at the heel of the blade and ever so slightly rotate the stone so the front of the stone just barely clears, and let the back of the stone do the work. (This keeps it from digging in as you move out of the recurve). As I exit, I just let the entire stone make contact... (pretty much does it naturally).

I also work recurves both directions. As I go from tip to heel (back into the recurve) the back of the stone (which is now leading) still does the work... so I use light pressure to make sure it doesn't "dig in". Working both directions insures that I work the entire recurve area.

Other than that, it's pretty simple... just pay attention that you're covering the entire area... and how the stone is contacting the blade... especially in the recurve area.
 
cbwx34 said:
That's a pretty gentle recurve... shouldn't be an issue on the W.E. Here's my .02...

As already stated... primarily the edge of the stone does the work. When I do one, I start at the heel of the blade and ever so slightly rotate the stone so the front of the stone just barely clears, and let the back of the stone do the work. (This keeps it from digging in as you move out of the recurve). As I exit, I just let the entire stone make contact... (pretty much does it naturally).

I also work recurves both directions. As I go from tip to heel (back into the recurve) the back of the stone (which is now leading) still does the work... so I use light pressure to make sure it doesn't "dig in". Working both directions insures that I work the entire recurve area.

Other than that, it's pretty simple... just pay attention that you're covering the entire area... and how the stone is contacting the blade... especially in the recurve area.
Click to expand...

That's helpful, similar to what I was thinking regarding using the back of the stone. I'm also thinking that back-and-forth strokes rather than any of the up-and-down scrubbing type strokes are probably the best way to go to help avoid "digging in"?
 
By way of example, one recurve that I sharpened a long time back was the Benchmade 710, and I think I wound up digging in by using up and down strokes, which sort of made the recurve become angular:

12735847_10153998949518478_386057395_n.jpg


Didn't look horrible, but I wasn't too happy with it.
 
You're correct... can't really do the up and down "scrubbing"... move both directions at the same time.

Edit: Use "sweeping" motion (couldn't think of the word). You can also work both edge trailing and edge leading. (I do most of the sharpening edge trailing... then finish edge leading from heel to tip).
 
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The 0220's recurve is very very slight. I've don't a couple on an edge pro and that uses 1 inch width flat stones. Heck, I've done deeper recurves and it's all good.

Only thing I might do different when compared to a normal edge is like what cbwx34 says. As I enter the recurve, (as aligned for a WE) i'll let the far side of the stone roll inward (towards the edge) and as i exit the recurve, i let the closer side of the stone roll inward to the blade.

hope that makes sense.
 
Came out pretty good I think! I more or less just matched the factory bevel on this one. Right around 20 dps.

43dWx81.jpg


MR0ZyOG.jpg
 
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