recurves and lansky system?

S

simplespeed

Joined
Jan 12, 2011
Messages
736
Anyone have good luck with sharpening recurves with a lansky? I attempted a zt 350 a while back but wasnt really happy with how it came out. To be fair though, I was still pretty new to the lansky at the time. Im wondering if I would be able to sharpen an emerson cqc15 that has a slight recurve. To top it off, it also has a tanto shape at the end.
 
I wouldn't say I've had good luck sharpening recurves on a Lansky, but it does make it easier than systems using a wider stone format. The best advice I have is to change the clamp position as you move across the blade. As far as clamping that puppy to sharpen the tanto end all I can say is good luck. I would use a belt sander on a blade shape like that or at least do the tanto end freehand with a stone.
 
Last edited:
I used mine on a ZT-0350 a few years ago. Don't have the Emerson, but it's recurve looks more subtle than the ZT. So, I wouldn't think it much of an obstacle. The narrow stones of the Lansky make it somewhat more useful than with other flat-honed systems. Need to keep pressure light, because only the corners of the hones will be making contact in the recurve. It's a bit easier at shallower angles (more acute), because the effective radius of the recurve will get somewhat wider with the hone laying closer to the side of the blade. The downside of that is, the more acute you go, the more metal needs to be ground off (for re-bevelling). Takes a good, long while... ;)


David
 
Last edited:
Its 154 cm so it wouldnt be too bad. And being an emerson it has a v ground bevel but only sharpened on one side. I think I would get as close to the factory angle and reprofile the recurve, then freehand the tanto at its current angle. I wonder what the transition would look like though. This is what it currently looks like.

IMG_20130126_172046.jpg

IMG_20130126_172455.jpg
 
If it were mine, I'd work each of the different grinds independently (might reposition the clamp to optimize for each), and keep the sharpening strokes in a direction starting at, and leading away from the transition. In other words, stroke from the transition towards the heel in one phase, and from the transition towards the tip in the other. I'd think that'll keep the transition as crisp as possible, with a minimum of burrs on the 'corner' in that area. Interesting project... :)


David
 
Thats a great idea and I will do that. Thanks for the pointers. Ill let you guys know how it turns out.
 
I use a Spyderco Slip Stone F (SP307F) for my ZT's and it works very well on the re curves. It's
tear drop in shape and the round edge works extremely well on the re curve.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top