Refinish Collins lagotamis or not

Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
4
I recently came into possession of a U.S Collins lagotamis tomahawk style vintage axe head. I am hesitant to refinish the head. It isn't pitted with rust. Would I totally ruin the value if I were to get it into usable condition?
 
Photos of how it is in it's current state? Never heard of a Legitimus tomahawk before, though their South American axes might be easily mistaken for one.
 
Photos of how it is in it's current state? Never heard of a Legitimus tomahawk before, though their South American axes might be easily mistaken for one.

It's probably a Hudson bay.
Anyway I would always say not to refinish a vintage axe, because patina is history and character.
So I would ( without even seeing it ) say that you should just remove the rust with a softer wire wheel.
 
Obviously we need pictures. A trade axe is different from a Hudson Bay pattern and as a collectible so is the value. And then there's the recently relevant question: how many points are on the crown.
 
If it isn't pitted then a wire wheel on a grinder or even steel wool will remove the rust while preserving patina. This won't affect any collector value. Vinegar soaking will affect the collector value to some extent. If it is a Collins Legitimus Hudson Bay then it does have some collector value if in good shape otherwise.
 
Through some browsing on the old inter-web, I found that Autocorrect misspelled lagitimus. There were 5 points on the crown, that it is the Hudson Bay style, and it was issued to the military in WWII. What I couldn't figure out is how to post a picture from my phone. When new it was painted olive drab, but I don't want that. There a couple of nicks on the pole, and a thick patina. I wanted to use the axe after it was rehung, but maybe I shouldn't. I hate to hang such a beautiful axe on the wall in my workshop. I appreciate all of everyone's input. I'm new to axe collecting and would hate to make a mistake on my first worthwhile piece.
 
. . . There were 5 points on the crown. . .
Don't take the number of points on the crown seriously. The reference is to an earlier thread about an axe marked "COLLIN'S" with the question "I noticed that the real company is called "COLLINS", not "COLLIN'S", so it made me wonder if this Legitimus is actually, well, legitimate.". No answer so far.

To date we know that:
1.) Collins used marks with varying versions of the crown and hammer logo.
2.) There were counterfeit "Collins" axes made.
3.) Collins brought several lawsuits against counterfeiters.

As to your axe, I don't know what it's value is. Sorry :(

Bob
 
What constitutes "collectible condition" varies from person to person. To some, anything short of near original condition will be looked at as a "user". You will have to determine for yourself what should be used or left alone. I consider ease of replacement to be a huge factor. For me personally, anything uncommon/rare with an original handle warrants only careful handling and light use. An axe head can take some use and still retain its value but the handles are another story. Original, perfect paper labels means no use to me. If you are just putting a new handle on an older head, I see very little collector value unless you have something very rare which a U.S. marked Collins Legitimus head is not. If you want to use it, buy the head by itself and have a ball. To buy a new old stock original with original handle and paint and then beat it up makes little sense because other examples that are more "broken in" are available for less money. An original US Collins Legitimus axe as issued would be much harder to replace than just a used head.

Some of the "values" of axes right now are misleading, especially with Hudson Bays. Most of them are expensive but not because they are rare or special in any way, they are just currently very popular and people will pay up for them.

Norlunds are bringing crazy prices but they are not rare in any way. The number of listings for them is always high. There are lots to be had in varied conditions. It would not bother me a bit to see someone buy one in near perfect original condition and use it heavily because you could replace it, at least right now, fairly easily because lots are available. If someone bought a new old stock Peavey Hudson Bay and beat the hell out of it, that would make me cry because they are not easy to find in any condition.

If you watch the auctions closely you will realize that there are a lot of lone axe heads that bring almost as much as the same heads on original handles. This always puzzled me as I personally put a high value on the original handles. I think the reason the heads bring those prices is that people want to use their axes and are not really interested in a collectible or a wall hanger. They want a quality head that they can rehandle themselves because they enjoy the "restoration" as a hobby. In addition, they may worry about an old handle being sound or they do not want to worry about ruining a nice old handle.
 
It's probably a Hudson bay.
Anyway I would always say not to refinish a vintage axe, because patina is history and character.
So I would ( without even seeing it ) say that you should just remove the rust with a softer wire wheel.

Good advice.
 
Another collector value measure I use is the new Gransfors Bruks price. If I think a collector value on the axe is less than a new Gransfors Bruks axe, I go ahead and use it.
 
Back
Top