Refinish question

Badhammer

Badhammer

Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
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Currently my at home spa treatment consists of polishing and sharpening my old find Bucks. This yields pretty good results but I'd like to take it to the next step and address the blade finish itself. Normally I find light scratches from either use, misuse or improper sharpening. Thinking about getting a bench grinder (6"-8") and was wondering if there was some kind of buffing wheel that I could get that would clean up the blade and replicate the factory finish on my older 110 and 100 series Bucks. TIA
 
My go to wheel for putting a satin finish back on the knives is a 3M Scotch-Brite 8". I think it's the fine, but might be medium. Takes a little practice, but you can make them look factory new.
It gets more involved if you have deep scratches. I make my own abrasive wheels for that and those work much better on the deep stuff without giving the pebble effect.
 
Thanks Stumps. I was looking at some 3M wheels but they all seem to have a 1" arbor. The inexpensive bench grinders I was eyeing all seem to be 5/8" or smaller.
 
This is pretty much out of my area, but I think you will want a low speed (1750 rpm?) grinder.

Bert
 
I agree Bert.

Stumps,

How do you refinish the phenolic handles? I gone a few in the past where I used green and black stropping compound on a rag followed by paste wax. Turned out better than they were when I started but was wondering if there was a better approach?
 
They make reducers for the 1" to 5/8ths arbor. Here is my set up on an old Sears grinder I picked up at a garage sale for $10.00.
I believe the left wheel is a medium and it's the one I use most. This I use at 3000+ RPM, but with light pressure so it doesn't heat up.

m2AmVs9.jpg


I see this wheel actually had a 3" hole that I reduced to 5/8ths.

mqP8DwB.jpg


The next picture is of the wheels I made for deep scratches. The aggregate is 220 and 120 and works great for the really deep stuff.
I add glue to the wheel, then roll it in the aggregate before I let it dry overnight. It's then ready to use.

9mtu2Zq.jpg


For phenolic handles with aluminum pommels I usually hand sand starting with maybe 220x and work myself to finer and finer until all dings and scratches are out.
I buff using green to bring out the luster. This is done on the lower RPM like Bert referred to. You have to watch that you don't overheat the phenolic. Go fairly slow on the buff.

5SksKBG.jpg


I sharpen and strop on a 42" belt grinder.
Most knives can be brought back to near a factory fresh look like this.
 
My green brick is very green, aluminum oxide. That looks like my grey brick, chromium oxide. You can do it using that as I use the grey on my
sisal buff wheel. It's more aggressive. I do not have a rpm adjustment on my buff motor. So, it runs the axle (all wheels) at 3000. It takes some getting use to. And a miss-step can happen fast. So, I'd start with a slower speed. DM
 
Yes David, now that I look at the picture it does look gray. It is definitely green in real life....and yes, all my buffing is at about 1700 RPM. I have to be very careful even at 1700 when buffing phenolic.
 
Yes, agreed. My sisal buff will eat valox handles rather quickly. So, I keep it moving along. And on to the sewn cotton wheel. Then on to the loose cotton wheel you show loaded with the 'pink' rouge. DM
 
Thanks for the pictures, Stumps. I have a variable speed grinder that I use for polishing the blades. Will have to find some 3M pads.
 
Please remember all, eye protection at all times. I like a clear face mask. A leather or at least heavy denim apron is good also. High speed wheels and belts, even cloth ones, can grab a knife out of your hands in the blink of a eye and throw it across the room. Wrap your blade in painters tape when not working on that and you can even put a little on your fingers for protection. I have a little 1 X 30 cork belt sander I like best. Slow but safe. 300
 
Buck uses Cratex wheel first then switches to a leather stropping wheel. Knives come out perfect from spa treatment.
 
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A good point. My wife made me a heavy leather apron and I wear gloves, goggles and a respirator. These are essential. DM
 
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