-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Refinshing Horn Grips
- Thread starter fullplate
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 2,737
Breathing just about any dust is bad, but it's said that the horn may contain some microbes that can give one a rough time if they decide to party in the lungs.
First, I'd get some dressing (something with lots of lanolin, very popular is stuff made for animal hooves like the product "Hooflex") on the horn and let it adjust to the new environment for a while, like a couple of weeks. That should help relieve stress coused by drying out in Reno.
I've found that the horn can be worked in much the same way as wood, using sandpaper and fine files. Be careful using files near cracks. Go slowly, it may be easier to remove material than you think.
For any but the coarsest grits, I wet-sand with the dressing. It keeps the fine dust down and you can see what going on better as well.
I actually use Alberto V05 hair product for the dressing, but if you're in a dry area, some of the speciality products or pure lanolin may be more effective.
Many like to leave horn grips at 400 or 600 grit, for more of a matte finish, which is a little grippier. The surface will look grey unless it dressed. It's not too hard to get a full polish on the horn by hand, though. Just go to finer grits and finish with some sort of rubbing compound and a piece of leather or the back of the sandpaper.
Good luck, maybe test things out on a karda or chakma handle first.
Oh yeah, it does have a fine grain like wood.
First, I'd get some dressing (something with lots of lanolin, very popular is stuff made for animal hooves like the product "Hooflex") on the horn and let it adjust to the new environment for a while, like a couple of weeks. That should help relieve stress coused by drying out in Reno.
I've found that the horn can be worked in much the same way as wood, using sandpaper and fine files. Be careful using files near cracks. Go slowly, it may be easier to remove material than you think.
For any but the coarsest grits, I wet-sand with the dressing. It keeps the fine dust down and you can see what going on better as well.
I actually use Alberto V05 hair product for the dressing, but if you're in a dry area, some of the speciality products or pure lanolin may be more effective.
Many like to leave horn grips at 400 or 600 grit, for more of a matte finish, which is a little grippier. The surface will look grey unless it dressed. It's not too hard to get a full polish on the horn by hand, though. Just go to finer grits and finish with some sort of rubbing compound and a piece of leather or the back of the sandpaper.
Good luck, maybe test things out on a karda or chakma handle first.
Oh yeah, it does have a fine grain like wood.
Nice tip about wet sanding to keep the dust down. I use a mask with replaceable filters, but still have to vacuum everything up afterwards.
Recently I switched from Hooflex (lanolin treatment) to Ballistol from www.ballistol.com which doesn't smell as bad and is easier to apply.
600 grit was still too shiney for me, so I sanded most of my horn handles down with 400 grit and that is just about right. The odd thing about sanded horn is that it doesn't seem to get slippery when wet - seems to grip even better.
Recently I switched from Hooflex (lanolin treatment) to Ballistol from www.ballistol.com which doesn't smell as bad and is easier to apply.
600 grit was still too shiney for me, so I sanded most of my horn handles down with 400 grit and that is just about right. The odd thing about sanded horn is that it doesn't seem to get slippery when wet - seems to grip even better.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 1999
- Messages
- 8,911
Pure lanolin is available in a 2 oz. tube at your pharmacy or supermarket baby section for nursing mothers to apply to their sore nipples.
Another alternative is to get a bottle of choji oil, or you can make up a mixture of of oil of clove from the pharmacy ( to relieve toothaches ) and add a little to Kama Sutra Pleasure Garden massage oil. 1 to 8 ratio does fine. The homemade mix leaves a distinctive and exotic scent oddly appropriate to a well cared for khuk. Turns out that choji oil is transleated as clove oil, but is really a mixture of chrysanthemum (?) and mineral oils, and is used for proper care of the katana.
Who knows, it might even give your wife some ideas.
Another alternative is to get a bottle of choji oil, or you can make up a mixture of of oil of clove from the pharmacy ( to relieve toothaches ) and add a little to Kama Sutra Pleasure Garden massage oil. 1 to 8 ratio does fine. The homemade mix leaves a distinctive and exotic scent oddly appropriate to a well cared for khuk. Turns out that choji oil is transleated as clove oil, but is really a mixture of chrysanthemum (?) and mineral oils, and is used for proper care of the katana.
Who knows, it might even give your wife some ideas.
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2002
- Messages
- 1,104
i'd like to add that choji oil, is basically mineral oil with a drop of clove oil for recognition purposes. choji oil of course, is traditionally used to maintain japanese swords.
sure, breakfree CLP in my opinion is better, but that's another tale...
you basically want the mineral oil, which can be bought at any drug store. skip the clove oil, it just smells good.
sure, breakfree CLP in my opinion is better, but that's another tale...
you basically want the mineral oil, which can be bought at any drug store. skip the clove oil, it just smells good.
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2002
- Messages
- 3,397
Locally 1-oz tube in pharmacy/lotion aisles runs $2.00-$5.00,
while the 'mother's' lanolin runs about twice as much.
In a previous thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=262222&highlight=lanolin
Ferguson offered a link to lanolin @ $8/pound
http://www.cedarvale.net/soaps/lanolin.htm
Probably could order bulk lanolin at a local pharmacy
at a price somewhere in between.
Look for a 'compounding' pharmacy to have it in stock.
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
Try the lanolin first and give it some time, perhaps even a couple of months. Some of the guys report that the handles will swell back out to size.
I use Ballistol-Lube on all of my handles, blades and scabbards and it does keep the handles from shrinking overly much.
The B-L also maintains the blades as well as keeping the leather on the scabbards supple and nice. Kiwi still works well to maintain the scabbards after a treatment with B-L dries.
Unless it's a humongous gap I wouldn't worry about it. Any way you can scan or post a pic?
You can chek out the Ballistol here, if you like.
I use Ballistol-Lube on all of my handles, blades and scabbards and it does keep the handles from shrinking overly much.
The B-L also maintains the blades as well as keeping the leather on the scabbards supple and nice. Kiwi still works well to maintain the scabbards after a treatment with B-L dries.
Unless it's a humongous gap I wouldn't worry about it. Any way you can scan or post a pic?
You can chek out the Ballistol here, if you like.
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2002
- Messages
- 2,737
Glycerin or glycerol is a small compound that has three carbons and three hydroxyl groups. Think of it as being the next bigest version of etylene glycol, which is commonly used as antifreeze for radiators, you'll be pretty accurate. Sorta like butane is the next biggest version of propane.
Jello (TM), or gelatin, is obtained by extracting the soluble proteins (or other very large molecules) from animal of vegetable matter. Proteins are BIG, and usually lose their orginal 3D shape in the process. The huge molecules get tangled up with each other and trap a lot of water (if present) in the process creating what is known as a "gel". Other large molecules, like some polysaccarides (sort of like starch) can make gels also. Examples are the thick gel obtained by extenively cooking down stocks made from bones (collagen and other proteins extracted from cartilage and other connective tissue, carrageenan (polysachacrides from particular red seaweeds), agar, pectin used for making jams, and the the proteins obtained from hooves and stuff.
Glycerol is present in almost all natural fats and oils, and is bound the acid part of fatty acids. Break that bond with lye, and you've made salts of the fatty acids, otherwise known as soap.
Jello (TM), or gelatin, is obtained by extracting the soluble proteins (or other very large molecules) from animal of vegetable matter. Proteins are BIG, and usually lose their orginal 3D shape in the process. The huge molecules get tangled up with each other and trap a lot of water (if present) in the process creating what is known as a "gel". Other large molecules, like some polysaccarides (sort of like starch) can make gels also. Examples are the thick gel obtained by extenively cooking down stocks made from bones (collagen and other proteins extracted from cartilage and other connective tissue, carrageenan (polysachacrides from particular red seaweeds), agar, pectin used for making jams, and the the proteins obtained from hooves and stuff.
Glycerol is present in almost all natural fats and oils, and is bound the acid part of fatty acids. Break that bond with lye, and you've made salts of the fatty acids, otherwise known as soap.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2003
- Messages
- 473
Thanks again Yvsa.
Speaking of the scabbards, I've done a bit of work on mine. I gave my horn handled BAS to a needy relative who caught the bug and I got from HI a horn handled 16.5" WWII by Kumar and a wood handled 16.5" WWII by Amtrack.
One of the problems I had was the little leather pieces glued in to the loops which hold in the Chakma and the Karda. They came out and the heads of the little nails started wearing into the handles of the karda and the chakma, especially those for my wooden handled WWII.
What I found that worked well was to cut a replacement piece out of the fuzzy side of some sticky backed velcro.
Those little nails that they use to tack the sheaths together were coming out in circus fashion.
I went and got some more automotive weather stripping compound, the black, Permatex version, from Auto Zone. When the black Permatex stuff dries, the color blends in very well with the sheath.
Automotive weather stripping compound rocks. It's one of the few things that I've ever found that's strong enough to fix boots out in the field. It blows away most of the other flexible drying glues. It's most commonly found in this obnoxious yellow color, which bikers and mechanics have for years called, 'gorilla snot'.
I pulled out all of the little nails I could get to and glued everything down using a lot of the black automotive weather stripping compound. I also liberally poured a large bead of it down the back of the sheath along that sewn seam. I had lifted up that tacked flap and removed the chape. All of that flimsy looking stiching job I glued down and then covered all of the threads and everything. My OEM khukuri sheath from HI is now a lot more bullet proof. I still plan on getting a sheath from the Sarki shop, but this will do for now.
I had already done the chape on one sheath, so I did the chape on the other. After whacking on the tip sharply with a small hammer, it came off. I then cut the pointy tip off with a Dremel tool and hammered the newly opened tip closed so it was a lot blunter. The pointy tip was quite bothersome out in the field and was always nailing me in the back of the calf when I kneeled or squated down. After some taping on a small anvil horn and some hammer tapping to re-fit it on the end of the sheath, the whole thing was again sealed to the sheath with automotive weather stripping compound.
Speaking of the scabbards, I've done a bit of work on mine. I gave my horn handled BAS to a needy relative who caught the bug and I got from HI a horn handled 16.5" WWII by Kumar and a wood handled 16.5" WWII by Amtrack.
One of the problems I had was the little leather pieces glued in to the loops which hold in the Chakma and the Karda. They came out and the heads of the little nails started wearing into the handles of the karda and the chakma, especially those for my wooden handled WWII.
What I found that worked well was to cut a replacement piece out of the fuzzy side of some sticky backed velcro.
Those little nails that they use to tack the sheaths together were coming out in circus fashion.
I went and got some more automotive weather stripping compound, the black, Permatex version, from Auto Zone. When the black Permatex stuff dries, the color blends in very well with the sheath.
Automotive weather stripping compound rocks. It's one of the few things that I've ever found that's strong enough to fix boots out in the field. It blows away most of the other flexible drying glues. It's most commonly found in this obnoxious yellow color, which bikers and mechanics have for years called, 'gorilla snot'.
I pulled out all of the little nails I could get to and glued everything down using a lot of the black automotive weather stripping compound. I also liberally poured a large bead of it down the back of the sheath along that sewn seam. I had lifted up that tacked flap and removed the chape. All of that flimsy looking stiching job I glued down and then covered all of the threads and everything. My OEM khukuri sheath from HI is now a lot more bullet proof. I still plan on getting a sheath from the Sarki shop, but this will do for now.
I had already done the chape on one sheath, so I did the chape on the other. After whacking on the tip sharply with a small hammer, it came off. I then cut the pointy tip off with a Dremel tool and hammered the newly opened tip closed so it was a lot blunter. The pointy tip was quite bothersome out in the field and was always nailing me in the back of the calf when I kneeled or squated down. After some taping on a small anvil horn and some hammer tapping to re-fit it on the end of the sheath, the whole thing was again sealed to the sheath with automotive weather stripping compound.
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
mrostov:
You may have done your scabbard a mis-service by sealing it up with the weather stripping.
The scabbards need to breath in order to maintain the kukri rust free. I would at least drill myself a couple of small, 3/16", holes somewhere near the bottom of the scabbard in the back. That will let any accumulated water or excess moisture drain out and let the scabbard breath once more. Just a suggestion.
You may have done your scabbard a mis-service by sealing it up with the weather stripping.
The scabbards need to breath in order to maintain the kukri rust free. I would at least drill myself a couple of small, 3/16", holes somewhere near the bottom of the scabbard in the back. That will let any accumulated water or excess moisture drain out and let the scabbard breath once more. Just a suggestion.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2003
- Messages
- 473
There is a small passage for water drainage through the bottom of the chape.
Mainly what I sealed up was the the stitching up the back. The stitching wasn't done that well and I could forsee the widely spaced, exposed threads getting abraded and torn. The whole back of the sheath was not fastened together in a very rugged manner. The nails were already coming out on a regular basis.
The blade can breath through the top of the sheath and drain through the bottom if I get caught in the rain.
I live sort of out in the boonies and I wear my khukuri a lot, so the sheath sees a lot of use. The new frog I made has been very convenient for taking the sheath on and off rapidly, like when I go into town for groceries and the 'normal' folks in Safeway might be a bit uneased by my wearing a large blade like that (but it is legal here). It's made out of 2" nylon webbing with a quick detach belt clip.
----------------
Mainly what I sealed up was the the stitching up the back. The stitching wasn't done that well and I could forsee the widely spaced, exposed threads getting abraded and torn. The whole back of the sheath was not fastened together in a very rugged manner. The nails were already coming out on a regular basis.
The blade can breath through the top of the sheath and drain through the bottom if I get caught in the rain.
I live sort of out in the boonies and I wear my khukuri a lot, so the sheath sees a lot of use. The new frog I made has been very convenient for taking the sheath on and off rapidly, like when I go into town for groceries and the 'normal' folks in Safeway might be a bit uneased by my wearing a large blade like that (but it is legal here). It's made out of 2" nylon webbing with a quick detach belt clip.
----------------
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Good help and thanks. Good guys give good help.