refractory cement

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Atlas Knife Company

Atlas Knife Company

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I've read that HD, Lowes and Menards all carry refractory cement. No one at the local stores know what it is(or they aren't working the morning shift). Can someone tell me where it would be at in the store(plumbing, caulking, masonry, etc.)?
 
It is also called stove pipe cement and would be with fireplace supplies. Most of the stores should start carrying it since that season is almost here.

$5.31 at Lowes for 8oz
063467845973lg.jpg
 
I have never found refractory cement at any of those stores. At least not in stock. They should be able to order it though. I ordered mine from a local True Value hardware store and it arrived within a week.
 
Chuck Gedraitis Knives said:
It is also called stove pipe cement and would be with fireplace supplies. Most of the stores should start carrying it since that season is almost here.

$5.31 at Lowes for 8oz
063467845973lg.jpg
Click to expand...

Hmmm I never looked there and no one at the stores could tell me either....:o
I look this weekend. :thumbup:
 
No refractory cement, but there was furnace cement, good to 2700°. Think it will work? Any suggestions or links to tutorials?
 
I have also used the furnace cement that comes in a tube. Just pipe it on in the pattern you want. I usually make it thinner near the blade edge and thicker on the spine.
 
If you are building a forge, you need to stop and study up first. Not knowing what refractory coating to use is like a med student not knowing what a scalpel is. If you are doing a clay coating, you don't want that cement either ( too much sodium silicate). For both jobs you want Satanite. Check out Darren Ellis' site. He has everything you will need, and superb FAQs and building info.
http://forgegallery.elliscustomknifeworks.com/
 
No, Stacy, I'm not building a forge. I still need to SEE a forge first. Hopefully that will happen this weekend at Miss Kitty's Ashokan Saloon. I hear they have some real pretty ones there. I'm going to go read those tutorials(along with the 15 or so that I read today) and will post the results tomorrow(I have video).
 
Make your way down here and I'll show you a forge, and If you'll share some of that jerky,Ill give you some Satanite to do a few Knives.
vern

OOOH that is a different type of forge at miss Kitty's Ashokan Saloon i think!
 
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I can't pass up an invite from a local maker, but it will have to be a couple weeks. Of course, most of THIS jerky will be gone by then, but I'll throw a couple pieces back on the dehydrator trays. After a couple weeks of air drying, that stuff is the best jerky you've ever had.
 
bladsmth said:
Not knowing what refractory coating to use is like a med student not knowing what a scalpel is. If you are doing a clay coating, you don't want that cement either ( too much sodium silicate).http://forgegallery.elliscustomknifeworks.com/
Click to expand...

Amen!

The pottery supply place here, Armadillo Clay, sells Mizzou refractory cement, "kiln cement", and "kiln patch". They don't know much about the last two and haven't vouchsafed a brand name for either.

The kiln cement is grayish brown with the consistency of potter's clay, It seems to have worked really well for laying up firebrick, but not in a forge. I built my forge with Kaowool and coated it with Armadillo's kiln cement because they thought it was the same as ITC-100. With maybe 20 hours of operation, the coating is cracking and collapsing.

I'm thinking I'll cast a 1" refractory shell for the forge and wrap that with kaowool. Is Mizzou suitable for the shell? Are any of their products likely to be useful as a clay coat? I don't mind ordering Satanite from Ellis or whoever if I need it, but I do like to support local shops when I can.
 
I gotta disagree just a little with Stacy on this. There is such a vast array of products out there in this big world, it can be hard to decide just what you want to use.

Even with a lot of experience, and some basic knowledge of how things work, it can still be overwhelming when you look at all the options out there for us (and I'm not just talking refractory...I'm talking EVERYTHING, abrasives, buffing compounds, polishing compounds....etc.)

I do fully agree with you that Satanite is one of the best options for heat-treating. I have tried about two dozen different things over the years and Satanite has proven to work very well. Just expect funny looks when your family members see the canisters you've repackaged the big bag into with giant labels reading "SATANITE" ;) :D
 
Nick, I was pointing out to zaph that he tends to start doing things and then afterward seeks to find out what went wrong or how to do the process. If he had read up on clay coating or any other HT use of refractory cement, he would have known about Satanite.

zaph, I am sure you know that my comments are to guide you to study up first and then do a project. As you said, you hadn't even seen a forge yet at that point.
Take some time and go slowly...that will give you better results and more enjoyment.

Ashokan will be a great experience for you,zaph. Some of the topics and skill levels will be beyond your present abilities, but taking good notes and listening well will gain you a lot of knowledge for the future. The open forge at night will be very interesting for you,too......just stay away from Sam and his "hammer of death".

DrDoc, Mizzou makes an excellent cast shell. Darren Ellis sells it in the 3000F grade. You are correct in understanding that the shell needs a wrap of Kaowool. The outer casing can be sheet metal with big strap clamps to hold it in place. A pointer and caveat....make any holes in the shell (for the burner nozzle or the burner tube) larger than needed by about 1/2". Make the edges of these holes smooth. This will avoid cracks starting at the holes. After curing the liner and firing it, the gap between the liner and the burner nozzle can be cemented up with one of the furnace cements. If you cast the liner directly on the nozzle or burner tube, it will make a crack quite likely later on.

A cast liner takes a while to heat up, but retains a very even heat after it is up to temp. Cast a 2" liner and wrap it in 2" Hi-Z wool for a super forge. Make a permanent stand or cart for the forge, as it will weigh a lot. Do the math and calculate the volume of the Mizzou needed, it will surprise you.
 
You will do well,...Grasshoppah. Now, wax on - wax off. Repeat 100 times while standing on an anvil.

See you tomorrow. I will try and spend some forge time with you in the evening.
 
Thread revival! I have a question about the Mizzou castable refractory. I'm wanting to use either it or Kast-o-lite 30 for making a 2" thick shell inside a 14" diameter propane tank to build a small foundry. The dry-out schedules for those two materials are very specific and complex - too complex to adhere to without a huge computer-controlled oven. So my question is how critical is the initial firing? How are others doing their first firing with Mizzou or similar refractory? Thanks for any info!
 
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