Refurbished Villager Model

"ignoring thread" 60 views and no replies...:D;) :p
 
Let's try this again! So I had this perfectly good little villager. Ugly but very servicable. But was I satisfied? Noooo. I knew she had looks under that rough exterior.
 
ahem....Wow!

Very well done.

Again...Wow!
 
Shown with the still rough Karda. Ground a convex edge, took the finish to 600 grit, then buffed. Soldered the diamond onto the butt cap. Sanded off the end of the handle to get rid of a chip. Epoxied the cap to the handle. Sanded to 600 grit, then 15 coats of Tru-Oil.
 
What kind of wheel and compound did you use for all that buffing?

Did you buff the handle too?

-Dave, ignorant about buffing...
 
Originally posted by Dave K
What kind of wheel and compound did you use for all that buffing?

Did you buff the handle too?

-Dave, ignorant about buffing...
Click to expand...

I have a 2x72" belt grinder with a 10" contact wheel. On the blade I started at 220 grit, then 320, then a 400 grit loaded with green polishing compound, then 600 cork with green. After that, a light buff on an 8" sewn muslin wheel loaded with green compound. The handle was sanded by hand to 400 or 600 grit, starting with 220. Then about 15-20 coats of Tru-oil was applied by finger, lightly sanding between coats with wet 1000 grit sandpaper. The brass was buffed on a loose cotton wheel with Zam polishing compound.

I didn't start out to do all this. I was only going to put a convex edge on it, but one thing led to another.....:rolleyes:

Steve
 
Wow, VERY nice!

I've got one about like what you started with...
pinned the handle, then did a lot of filing and stoning on the karda, and sanded down the handles,giving them quite a few coats of tung oil (Minwax brand). I hand sanded down the big blade, first it was only gonna be 320, but then it was 600. Don't have any power tools, but I have given it another go with 1500 and green compound. Still some few deeper scratches remain, but it's not bad. But then the sickness set in. I think you have it worse than I do.

I checkered the wide ring on the handle (thanks for the tool Pappy!!!), and off and on have been trying to fill and level the rosewood. But I just can't seem to fill the grain on this stuff. Is the Tru-oil really that much better? It seems harder to deal with than the usual saatisal wood.For some reason the rose wood on this villager seems a lot more difficult to get the final finish on.

Anyway, you have inspired me to keep on trying, but I've not got all that much time, since it's gonna be given away at the holidays. However far I get, it's OK, as it still looks passable, and I will demand that the recipients USE it, but I appreciate any thing you can tell me about any differences you encountered in getting the finish on the rosewood.

Maybe the Tru-oil is really that much of a superior product....

Again well done, and like you I think that there is a beauty hidden under these utilitarian villagers waiting to be drawn out. And you Sir, have done it.

EDIT: Oh yeah, the buttcap on mine was a little loose too, I got some epoxy under it and and pinned it with a short bit of 3/16 brass rod which I filed/sanded down flush.
 
Firkin,
Something that I do that Walosi suggested, is to put a lot of finish on the first coat and sand it with maybe 320 or 420 grit. The wood dust mixes with the finish and helps to fill the pores. I do this twice. Just slather on the tru-oil or tung oil and sand. Keep adding finish as it gets dry. Then take your finger and work the slurry into the pores of the wood.

Steve
 
I have a villager that is your twin. I've tung-oiled (Formby's, matte) the handle, but no polish on the blade. Mine's not full tang, so there's a pinning project in the future. Really love the handle wood.
 
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