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Refurbishing an older 110
- Thread starter T Schloz
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T Schloz said:
Hey Tom, my rule of thumb on vintage knives is and active pitting rust or corrosion must be stopped, typical brass tarnish is left alone. Depends on how overall good the knife is also. A 2 dot dates from 1974 to 1980 roughly, so it's getting up there in years. Might be worth more if you just keep it from tarnishing anymore and keeping it safe.
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T Schloz said:
Howdy Tom, normally I am a troll and start stuff, but on this question I would like to express my self a bit and offer advice [u did have a question right?]...
Collect a Buck Knife for its appeal to YOU and acquire it at a value that YOU are glad to get it at! Any thing else is investing and it should be done new do not acquire it as a thing to increase in value if it is used.... the collectors that will pay big $ for scarce items are after scarce condition, first thing they look at is condition and last it's condition...
you have to only look at the base ball card collection bubble bursting .
If you want to acquire/have a 2 dot for investment- spend the money and buy a New Old Stock or Like New and UNUSED condition with every thing you would get at the store back then = box paper work ect... and then dont take it out and play with it, or show it off except in a locked display case, dont let me or your other best friends hold it in our dirty hands and get body oils on it...
I say= IF it is USED and shows it, restore it and ENJOY it !
Repairs are[were] done by Efren Reyes and he has close to 500 letters extolling his work! There many others with postings here praising his repair/rework {tho they may not know who he is} as looking as new or better
NOTICE: I would hurry if I were you as it is not known [been announced] if he is going with buck on the big move or if he has any one trained to take over in his style and if so I have not heard of the quality of their work (yet)!!!!
cant help it got to troll>> what about it you other colectors... what say YOU?
Later most respectly yours
dave
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The Last Confederate said:
TLC,
It has the typical dings in the brass bolsters and the blade has scratches from a sharpening stone and a few small pits, so I am not sure if it has any collector value at all. I just keep thinking how nice it would look refurbished. I may check with Buck after the holidays and see if they can still work it in before the move.
Tom
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T Schloz said:
Yeah if it's in that shape it's more user territory. I know they sure cleaned up that older one I sent them when they put the new blade in. Looks a lot better than it did.
How was the Collinsville show? I was planning on coming up Sunday, but had to take my mom down to Paducah to Xmass shop. We try not to let her drive to far by herself anymore. The next one in Marion is in March, supposed to have around 400 tables.
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I have an old (mid 70s vintage) 110 that I recently sent to Buck for a refurb. It was sadly beat up badly and showed all the signs of the abuse it took from me and my friend who I traded it to after beating on it for six or seven years. I bought it in my mid teens and traded it in my early 20s. When I got it back a bit over two years ago it showed all the signs of being thrown against a block wall repeatedly, the lock was unsound and there was a quarter inch of lateral blade play. It was beat and unusable. When I dropped it at Buck I told them that getting the original knife back was more important than returning it to like new condition (exchanging it).
It came back a week ago. There's still a few of the deeper scars still visible in the brass and some of the character marks in the wood like the snap from the sheath rubbing against it for years but most were buffed away. The lock was fixed, the pivot replaced and the blade reground to like new condition. I know the blade wasn't replaced as I had added a couple Rockwell hardness Tester divots when I was working in a machine shop in my late teens and they were still there.
It sounds like your knife is much like mine. A bit older knife that had served a good life as a useful tool and now needs some care to return it to good tool status. Unless there's something really rare about it an old used knife is just that. Buck 110s are made in huge numbers and have been for decades. Get it fixed up and enjoy it for another few decades as what is was made to be, a great personal cutting tool.
I'm not a serious collector and may have missed the the importance of the two dots, but that's my opinion.
John
It came back a week ago. There's still a few of the deeper scars still visible in the brass and some of the character marks in the wood like the snap from the sheath rubbing against it for years but most were buffed away. The lock was fixed, the pivot replaced and the blade reground to like new condition. I know the blade wasn't replaced as I had added a couple Rockwell hardness Tester divots when I was working in a machine shop in my late teens and they were still there.
It sounds like your knife is much like mine. A bit older knife that had served a good life as a useful tool and now needs some care to return it to good tool status. Unless there's something really rare about it an old used knife is just that. Buck 110s are made in huge numbers and have been for decades. Get it fixed up and enjoy it for another few decades as what is was made to be, a great personal cutting tool.
I'm not a serious collector and may have missed the the importance of the two dots, but that's my opinion.
John
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T Schloz said:
Cool, it's march 19th and 20th, if you can make it down maybe we can catch lunch together.
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No use starting a new thread with the same title as this one. And after all, what's 10 years between friends? . . . 
I have a 110 that my grandfather bought me. I'm the sole owner of the knife. I confirmed the date of manufacture on the web site. It was built between 1967-1972 (BUCK, U.S.A. on the blade tang, no other markings). It's actually in very good condition. The blade is intact and shows absolutely no signs of corrosion. It could use a good sharpening, of course. The lockup is solid. The bolsters are corroded and show a few marks on them, but nothing I would consider a dent. The handles are in good shape. I used to take this knife with me on fishing trips out of San Diego when I was a young man, but I haven't used it in years. I'm considering sending it back to Buck for a refurb, but I'm concerned that it might lose collector value in the process. This knife DOES have sentimental value to me . . . enough value that I bought another 110 recently to use so I could put this one away. So what say you Buck experts? Send it in for a refurb or put it back in the safe?
I have a 110 that my grandfather bought me. I'm the sole owner of the knife. I confirmed the date of manufacture on the web site. It was built between 1967-1972 (BUCK, U.S.A. on the blade tang, no other markings). It's actually in very good condition. The blade is intact and shows absolutely no signs of corrosion. It could use a good sharpening, of course. The lockup is solid. The bolsters are corroded and show a few marks on them, but nothing I would consider a dent. The handles are in good shape. I used to take this knife with me on fishing trips out of San Diego when I was a young man, but I haven't used it in years. I'm considering sending it back to Buck for a refurb, but I'm concerned that it might lose collector value in the process. This knife DOES have sentimental value to me . . . enough value that I bought another 110 recently to use so I could put this one away. So what say you Buck experts? Send it in for a refurb or put it back in the safe?
Last edited:
David Martin
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It sounds like everything is all right with your 110. So, what would you send it in for?
As for value decrease. Only the purest might cry fowl. To me if Buck factory took care of their knife I would be fine with that. DM
As for value decrease. Only the purest might cry fowl. To me if Buck factory took care of their knife I would be fine with that. DM
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Pretty much just a spa treatment. It's been sitting in a tool box for a very long time and it shows. Besides, I bought another 110 to use as a beater, so I really don't need to use the one my grandfather gave me. I'd have Buck clean it up and then I'd put it away for posterity.
Thanks, David. I was thinking the same thing.
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Since it is a sentimental knife, being a gift from grandpa, I would not hesitate to spa treatment it.
After all, you wouldn't ever sell it, so monetary value is irrelevant
After all, you wouldn't ever sell it, so monetary value is irrelevant
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Since it is a sentimental knife, being a gift from grandpa, I would not hesitate to spa treatment it.
After all, you wouldn't ever sell it, so monetary value is irrelevant
True that. I spoke to Buck's Warranty Department yesterday and they're not kidding when they say they have a "forever warranty". I explained my situation to them and they said they'd give my vintage 110 a full spa treatment for the price of return postage . . . $6.95. They said that as long as they didn't have to replace the blade with the original tang stamp, cleaning it up shouldn't diminish its value. That sounds too good to pass up. :thumbup:
Pics or it didn't happen.
Yeah, I should probably take a before and after picture, shouldn't I? Does that mean I have to learn how to use the camera in my smart phone?
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True that. I spoke to Buck's Warranty Department yesterday and they're not kidding when they say they have a "forever warranty". I explained my situation to them and they said they'd give my vintage 110 a full spa treatment for the price of return postage . . . $6.95. They said that as long as they didn't have to replace the blade with the original tang stamp, cleaning it up shouldn't diminish its value. That sounds too good to pass up. :thumbup:
Yeah, I should probably take a before and after picture, shouldn't I? Does that mean I have to learn how to use the camera in my smart phone?
Yep.... and learn to use photobucket too....lol
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The photobucket part I've got. It's the photography part that eludes me . . .
do you have an android smartphone?
I personally like to use the "w6m" resolution setting. (3264x1836)
On the kitchen table move the knife around to find the best lighting. No flash.
A good amount of indirect light is best.
Touch part of the knife image on the screen to focus it nicely.
Then snap the photo.
Use the photobucket app, and upload the photo right from your phone.
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Yes, I have an Android smartphone. Thanks for the tip.do you have an android smartphone?
I personally like to use the "w6m" resolution setting. (3264x1836)
On the kitchen table move the knife around to find the best lighting. No flash.
A good amount of indirect light is best.
Touch part of the knife image on the screen to focus it nicely.
Then snap the photo.
Use the photobucket app, and upload the photo right from your phone.