Refurbishing working axes...

[SR69]

I've picked up 4 old (vintage?) axes. Despite owning 8 axes now since I began posting here most recently,
I am not a collector by any means. I just ran into a few great deals and I just couldn't say know to them.
So, what I want to do is to restore the 4 axes I saved, take the mini-hatchet and put a nice edge on it.

So, I'm going to restore the two felling axes (Plumb, Council Tool) and re-hang the two double bit axes.
I'm thinking just stripping the heads, cleaning them up as much as possible, buffing them up, oiling the
heads and sealing the handles with linseed oil. Aesthetically speaking, I'd like to stain the handles darker.
Can linseed oil be tinted and darkened at all?

I have some general questions on rehanging the double bits. Also, the head on the Council 3.5# is a little loose.
I'd like to tighten that up without removing the head if possible. Either way, I'll want to actually "use" these.
Once I'm done with putting them back into operating condition, they'll never see that type of cleanliness again
(except for maintenance).

I've done a search, but couldn't find a general thread on restoring/refurbishing older axes. If one or several
exist(s), I'd appreciate a link(s). Any tips on securing the head, handle finishes, etc...for "working" axes?

Here was my first refurbishing project: Bringing a beat-up & well worn tool back to life...

 

[Square_peg]

First off let me say that if the 2 handles in the 2nd picture are sound then you really want to save them. I might value a good vintage handle more than the axe head. There are lots of axe heads out there and very few vintage handles. Those classic fawns foot handles are just wonderful.

Aesthetically speaking, I'd like to stain the handles darker. Can linseed oil be tinted and darkened at all?

Yes. and it can be applied over other wood stains. It used to be the base for many wood stains and is still used in some stains. But before you go there try just applying linseed oil to your sanded vintage handle. Often times the handle will darken beautifully just from applying BLO. The years of exposure to UV light darkens wood and the dark color shows up when you refinish the wood with BLO. Some of my most beautiful handles are just stained by age and BLO.

Regarding restorations and in particular the re-use of vintage handles, there's an old thread on here somewhere about how to remove the wedge from a vintage handle in order to save and re-sue the handle. There's some real good stuff in that thread.

 

[halfaxe]

I agree about just adding blo to an old handle. I've had handles that were washed out gray that turned a beautiful dark caramel color just with the oil alone. I always try to salvage an old handle if possible. Usually just by trying to remove the wedge(s) without damaging the handle and then re-wedging.

 

[M3mphis]

Can linseed oil be tinted and darkened at all?

You can add oil based paint. You can also add oil based stain. Many oil based stains are basically a pigment mixed with BLO, check the label. A little color goes a long way.

 

[John Frankl]

I agree on BLO first. For some reason, the really old handles go very dark once the oil hits them. They look great, and I don't think more color is even necessary.

 

[SR69]

First off let me say that if the 2 handles in the 2nd picture are sound then you really want to save them. I might value a good vintage handle more than the axe head. There are lots of axe heads out there and very few vintage handles. Those classic fawns foot handles are just wonderful.

Yes. and it can be applied over other wood stains. It used to be the base for many wood stains and is still used in some stains. But before you go there try just applying linseed oil to your sanded vintage handle. Often times the handle will darken beautifully just from applying BLO. The years of exposure to UV light darkens wood and the dark color shows up when you refinish the wood with BLO. Some of my most beautiful handles are just stained by age and BLO.

Regarding restorations and in particular the re-use of vintage handles, there's an old thread on here somewhere about how to remove the wedge from a vintage handle in order to save and re-sue the handle. There's some real good stuff in that thread.

I agree about just adding blo to an old handle. I've had handles that were washed out gray that turned a beautiful dark caramel color just with the oil alone. I always try to salvage an old handle if possible. Usually just by trying to remove the wedge(s) without damaging the handle and then re-wedging.

I agree on BLO first. For some reason, the really old handles go very dark once the oil hits them. They look great, and I don't think more color is even necessary.

Thank you SP, thank you HA and thank you JF.

Helps me out a lot.
And yes, I'm going to definitely stick with the handles on the single bit axes for sure.
They are sound. I'm going to just go with the BLO first and see how they turn out.
Also, I know where I can get some New Old Stock handles for $5./ea. That's going
to be a nice score for me and they are pretty much ready for sealing with BLO.

Also, I'll look for that thread on the handles. Thanks.
It looks like Operator1975 is just about to drop a new handle thread on us.
Hopefully he'll address what I need to know there.

Question:
Is there any way to retrofit something in there to tighten it up?

When I used to fix my work hatchets and axes just to keep them going, we'd insert anything what worked (hand cut nails,
mason nails, etc...) that had a wedge shape. I know this isn't the "correct" way and I won't be ever doing that again.
I was hoping that I could avoid removing the loose ax handle and just secure it more. If I can't, I'll remove it if I have to.

 

[Square_peg]

There's a thread on here about removing old wedges from good handles. Do that. Just re-wedge it good and tight.

 

[jeremy1517]

Stupid question..... Where do I get wedges? Do I make them or buy them?

 

[John Frankl]

Make them if you want them to fit properly. They often come with new handles, but they are also often small and soft and just all around sub-standard.

 

[jeremy1517]

what do you make them out of?w3

 

[Square_peg]

I make mine out of various hardwoods I have around. The last batch was London Plane. The current batch is elm. I've found the wedges that come with House Handle or Tennessee Hickory products are acceptable but I still prefer to use my own. I still haven't settled the whole hardwood vs. softwood for wedges debate to my own satisfaction. I can imagine arguments that support either one.

As for buying them you can get them on ebay or from House Handle.

 

[SR69]

I just began working on my axes yesterday.

Basically, I lightly sanded the Boy's Axe and the Wetterlings and laid on a couple of coats of Danish Oil to darken the wood up a bit. I'm sure I'll go even darker than that, but I think they look a little better than stock for now and I certainly have a much thicker coating of protection than what they came with stock.

Now, the Plumb 3.5# ax was the bad-boy that gave me the problems. It didn't just bite me, but it damn near took a sizeable chunk out of my thumb. As I was passing a file over the edge, I slipped and ran my thumb into it. It cut clear "into" the digit between the nail and the outer left side of my right side thumb. It went "in" at least 3/4's of an inch, but me having a lot of experience with on-the-job wounds, I treated it right away and it didn't require stitches. The one I began working on is the red-handled ax in the OP.

I have to thank those of you who suggested going with an older ax. I notice the quality of the steel is so much better than the new cheaper axes I've had. As I worked to remove the coating on it, I couldn't seem to get it perfectly smooth, but I like the variations in the steel. Either way, the edge was razor sharp within a minute or two of passes of the bastard file I used. I like that. I even feathersticked with it a little. At 3.5#, it's a beast to handle, but like any heavy tool, you do most of the work lifting it and just guide it as you drive it down and let the head do most of the work. I've barely just begun to strip it, but as you can see, it's looking better than when I pulled it out of that barrel in the thrift shop. I think it's going to be really nice when I've oiled up the head and laid a nice rich dark stain on the handle.

I'm pretty sure that the Boy's Axe is going to be my favorite for any work while I'll keep the feller ax for the future. The Wetterlings has turned out to be a really nice tool for crafting and carving. I'm glad I stuck with it. I'd love to get my hands on an American made ax around it's size and with a similar head design. In fact, I may be having one handforged just for me out of some vintage American high carbon steel.

Sorry about the quality of the pics. It was kind of hard to hold the camera still with a thumb that was MIA for most of the work and it made taking pictures a painful experience.