Regarding S60V steel...

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Aug 7, 2007
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Just wondering if people have any experience with actual use of this steel and could compare it to a more commonly used steel. I recently found a Kershaw Ken Onion Boa and would like to know more. Haven't been able to find too much info about this steel, and don't know a lot about tacticals, but I do know first hand it is a bastard to sharpen.
 
I had the kershaw random task. The steel was good. I carried it for about 2 years before selling it. It held an edge about twice as long as a 440C knife I had at the time. Sadly, the steel is no longer made. Many reported sharpening problems, but it sharpened up great on my Sharpmaker at 20 degrees, after rebeveling so that only a very thin strip was being honed at 20. I would estimate the back bevel at 15-17 degrees, because the 20 degree section was just a thin line.
 
I have an extra Kershaw Avalanche with S60V that is awesome. Cuts like a laser, I think material parts before the blade touches it :D
 
Thanks for the info. I happened to find the knife in the basement of the house I moved in too long ago. Looks like I lucked into a good one.
 
I have a Kershaw Boa. It will hold a great edge for a long time, just don't try to thin the edge down to five degrees per side, S60V is softer than most knife steel types and won't hold up at angles like that. Fifteen to twenty degrees per side is probably best.
 
S60V is softer than most knife steel types

I don't know if this is truth, it might be just a rumor. According to the grapevine the knife could be too brittle if hardened up, and would be susceptable to rolling when the RC was kept down ( some Manuf. were running it 55-56 supposedly)

No question 420v/S90V is a big upgrade in just about all areas, so between the good S30V and the high end super steel S90V it just wasn't needed any more.

I have several S60V/440V knives still and they sure are wear resistant even at RC 55-56. I make it a rule not to sharpen mine without my diamond sharpeners.

Bottom line: Impressive steel that took people by storm when introduced, but pushed to the side by other cheaper but still VERY good ( S30V) , and very much better, S90V.

S90V so far has been pretty much the domain of custom knifemakers. In IIRC 2003 or so Microtech came out with a small sprint run of Socom Elites manual in S90V, and Spyderco is supposed to come out with a millie sprint in S90V ( which I'm greatly looking foreward to) . I have 2 of the Microtechs and they are excellent, sharp, strong and well crafted, but to me no one can beat the ergonomics of Spyderco.

If you get a S90V knife and aren't afraid of sharpening it will make you look at pocket knife performance steels differently. Only the other super steels like ZDP 189 ( tied charpy tests), Super Gold 1 & 2/VG1&2, Cowery X, and some of the even less used Cruicible steels match up performance wise ( wear resistance I mean. carbon steels will always make better large knives & choppers). S90V is sort of a stainless 10V ( a bit less performance).

Beware! As Thom Brogan put it There's plenty of the "large, devil worshiping vanadium carbides" present. It will never appeal to the (shudder) "darksiders" amongst us who take their M2 at RC 64-65 and thin them out thinner than razor blades. The large, very wear resistant vanadium carbides are just that, too large.

Personally, I like them both. Joe
 
Thanks for advice on sharpening. I am used to 1095 and this was a challenge for me. Initially, I figured with it being such a hard steel I would put about a 12 degree edge. That didn't turn out so well, so I put a microbevel of about 20 degrees and polished the heck out of it. Also got out the diamond stones and that helped immensely. The final result is very good now.

Also, very interesting info comparing with S30V and S90V. From what you are saying, it is as simple as the numbers denote. It is harder than 30 but softer than 90. Just no market for it anymore because the difference is not great enough with regard to the 30/90?
 
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