Regrinding chisel edged blades?

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XSanguin8

Joined
Mar 31, 2007
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I own several Emerson knives, and I have 1 or 2 on my person every time I set foot outside my door.

I have 5 or 6 that are in the EDC rotation (I choose which ones based on what I'm doing and where I'm going), and several that are low serial # discontinued models that are safe queens. I also have trainers for the 3 I carry most- CQC-7, Karambit (though I carry the Commander Kbit most often) and the Commander.

Of the models I carry most, the CQC-7 and CQC-7 Kbit seem to get the most use for utility. That being said, I'm finding that re-sharpening them is a real pain in the ass, and it takes way too long to get even mediocre results. I have a spyderco sharpmaker, and some Lansky dog-bones. With either of those, I can put wicked edges on my SAK's, or my Leatherman wave blades in no time at all. It's so easy, I can do it drunk.

I'm really thinking I want my EDC pieces reground. I feel the factory edges are too thick anyway, and I don't like the secondary bevel angle on most of them.

I always meant to maybe have Tom Krein do a re-grind, but it's my understanding he isn't doing them anymore. Is there anyone else out there doing this for a reasonable price that is good?

If any of you have had a re-grind done, please tell me about it, and include pics if you can. I'd love to see it! (as I'm sure others would as well.)

:)
 
I feel your pain. I'm in love with my CQC-15, but I do find myself missing the simple days of my Para 2's FFG.

I didn't know that Krein no longer didn't regrinds. This is news to me. I should probably read more >.>
 
Just to be clear, you are looking for a full-zero regrind, right? (no secondary edge bevel, just one large bevel all the way to the edge?)

I re-profiled my CQC-7A with sandpaper to give it a more acute bevel. I have been doing this with my 7B as well. This process always takes a while, so I recently purchased a work-sharp belt sander. It has not arrived through the mail yet, but I am thinking it will allow me to re-profile knives way faster.
 
I made the edge bevel about twice as wide as the stock bevel. Stock is usually about 1/16 inch, mine measures roughly 1/8 inch. (I kept the chisel edge geometry -and like it that way)

It has a very slight convex curve to it. It isn't the prettiest job, but it works much better now. I really want to try a full zero grind the way Krein does it.:thumbup:

7898979d-1-1.jpg
 
@ The Gov't- Yes, I was basically thinking a zero grind, or even re-profiling to a traditional V grind. (edited to add) Now that I think about it, a standard V grind probably isn't really possible with these. Zero grind seems to be the way to go here. Also, see this page for more info---> http://www.emersonknives.com/ekKnifeAnatomy.php

I actually don't have an "A" blade CQC-7. Weren't those a V grind blade? I thought they were? I do have several Emerson's, and I'm a member of the collectors association, but I don't claim to be an expert on them.

It's hard to tell from the pic, but it almost looks like you rounded down the bevel on a slack belt. Can you go a little into the process of how you got your blade that way? Looks like you sanded and polished, which in itself makes for better cutting. I have a cheap bali-song I got in mexico that actually cuts very nice after giving it what seems to be a similar treatment.
 
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I didn't mean to confuse. I am relatively new to this language.

There are three Emerson grinds I am aware of:

1) full zero grind (chisel or V)
2) primary chisel grind with secondary chisel edge
3) Primary V-grind with secondary chisel edge

The CQC-7A has a primary V-grind, however, the secondary edge bevel is only ground on one side (chisel-style edge only). Sharpening this is essentially the same as sharpening the B model, because you only sharpen one side. What makes the 7B different is that the primary grind is a chisel grind, and it also has a secondary chisel edge bevel.

I sharpened the 7A with nothing but elbow grease, wet-dry sand paper, and a flat surface. I can get a better finish from sand paper than my X-fine DMT stone, so that is why I chose the paper. I do it just like stropping, only I attempt to be much more precise. (I don't mind a slight convex). My goal was also to trim the edge shoulders down a little for better slicing.

As to the 7B model, I agree, a V edge would not make very much sense. I have a 7B model as well, and I was going to reprofile it by raising the edge bevel. I stopped half way through when I ordered a "work-sharp knife and tool sharpener" (a small slack belt sander -search for it in the maintenance section if you have never heard of it). It has not arrived yet, but that is now what I plan to use for reprofiling my edges.

And finally -about the full zero grind. That is what I really want to try, however I am afraid it is way over my experience level to create something like that. I have been meaning to contact Krein as well. (This seems like the best grind type to have, IMHO -albeit it probably wont be the strongest edge option)
 
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The Government said:
I made the edge bevel about twice as wide as the stock bevel. Stock is usually about 1/16 inch, mine measures roughly 1/8 inch. (I kept the chisel edge geometry -and like it that way)

It has a very slight convex curve to it. It isn't the prettiest job, but it works much better now. I really want to try a full zero grind the way Krein does it.:thumbup:

7898979d-1-1.jpg
Click to expand...

me like!:thumbup:
 
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