Rehafting a bunch of axes using "The Axe Book" as a guide

Last Visible Canary

actively parsing hurf durf
Joined
Nov 28, 2006
Messages
4,577
I finally got the time to rehaft a bunch of axes I have. I've been meaning to transition everything over to straight handles, to refurbish a double bit plumb 3lb head and to shave down the gransfors handle. All this after reading "The Axe Book", and specifically these two pages (if it's against rules to post these I'll take them down, I've seen others post them online and I can grab a link vs. original image, or just not post it at all):

P1140514.jpg

P1140515.jpg


The axes:
P1140328.jpg


The gransfors is really awesome, but it felt like an 8 pound sledge hammer when I first got it. I didn't understand why until I read the page on handle thicknesses, the gransfors falls under the catagory in the book that he describes as 'You could drop a cow with the last one on the list, it's that heavy'. Here it is next to the 36" double bit from link, which was more appropriate for the books description straight from the factory:
P1140330.jpg

P1140509.jpg


The grain of the handles is frustrating. There are 2 of the ones I purchased that I'm going to burn as firewood because the grain runs perfectly perpendicular to the bit's edge, pretty much a gaurenteed breakage if i actually used them. These are better, but no where near as good as the hickory heartwood handle on the gransfors american felling axe.
P1140486.jpg


In the book it says that you should use the hardest wood possible for wedges. I know theres varying opinions on this topic, but I figured I'd go the full length with using the books advice, so I went with the hardest wood I have/know of, lignum vitae:
P1140481.jpg

P1140498-1.jpg

P1140497.jpg

P1140492.jpg


The weight difference shows just how much denser the lignum vitae is compared to the (pine?) wedge supplied with the link handles. 12g for the light wedge, 28g for the lignum vitae at roughly the same size. It's an interesting wood to work with since you can barely split it where you want, you have to carve or sand it to shape because of it's crazy convoluted grain structure, and it's tendancy to shatter/splinter off:
P1140735.jpg


The rough cut:
P1140513.jpg


after shaving it down, new vs. older thicker handles:
P1140507.jpg


Super dense wedge:
P1140520.jpg


Because lignum vitae comes from a small trunked tree it's hard to get anything larger than 2x2, so I had to make multiple section wedges to completely fill the wedge space and the gaps:
P1140518.jpg


what i was working with on the double bit:
P1140680.jpg


I straightened out the felling bit side, and thinned out both bits, but haven't taken a photo of it yet. Needless to say on the entire process that I had no idea that I was using handles that were so thick that they gave no cushion to the vibration shock of striking hardwoods, I just thought that was part of the deal. These handles handle like a dream, the weight of the head feels more appreciable, the action more smooth and 'soft' in the hands. I haven't gotten to use them on wood yet, but I can feel the benefits just swinging them in air.
 
ebay axe heads are always a crapshoot since you often only see one small set of images of it. In this case I didn't get to see the other side of the head, which was the one that sat in the mud for several years and had pitted pretty bad. I had to bring the edge back on both sides by about 1/16" which is a lot of grinding to get it back down to a reasonable angle, and shortened the entire head noticably. I also flatened the curve of the felling side a lot, further shortening it, but bringing the two sides closer to being even since the heavy side was shorter and even more curved than the felling side to begin with.

I etched it just to make sure it had a hamon line and was hardened on both bits:
P1140010.jpg

P1140014.jpg


Pretty pitted heavy edge...
P1140015.jpg


after much grinding and reshaping:
zP1140745.jpg

zP1140746.jpg


Both edges were done on an edgepro professional sharpener, and brought to a 1000 grit finish. Because of the convex shape of the axe, I have aboslutely no idea what angle they were sharpened at. The felling side was set at 23 degree relief and a 25 degree micro primary, where the heavy side is about 1/4" below the 25 degree mark, which according to the reviews I've seen where 1mm = 1/4 degree, that makes it about 27 degrees. But because the convex is so heavy, I have a feeling both sides are above 30 degree's.
 
Cool. Some related threads I posted here on behalf on Peter Vido:

Devolution of Ax Handles
Straight versus Curved
Thinning handles

[sorry I don't have the links as my computer is having problems]
 
You did a nice job on those.
I think handles are a personal preference deal. I am not disagreeing with anything written but I like both depending on the ax.
Sometimes it just has to feel good.
 
I really like the look of some of your straight handles. Especially after you thinned them down. those super dark wedges look really good as well. Nice work!
 
awsome job! i really like the looks of those wedges...
btw; im also a 'straight' handle fan...
 
Great post! And nice work on those handles.

So what it the presumed deficiency in the curved handle? Reduced accuracy from the increased length of the foresection? And how much of a factor is that? Are 5° misses common or is a skilled axeman able keep his aim true to 1° or 2°?

Does a curved handle generate more head speed? Does improved grip compensate for any potential inaccuracy? Of is it all dependant on the user?
 
Going by the first graphic and a tangent table, a user able to control his swing to 1° creates a deviation of only .1575", slightly over 1/8 of an inch (versus a 1/16+" deviation with a straight handle). That's much better than the 3/4" deviation from a 5° error.
 
One last thing, would an upturned handle increase accuracy even more, say by reducing the foresection to zero? That could be handy on a broad axe where accuracy becomes extremely important.
 
1 degree is a very minute measurement when taking into account all of the variables involved in striking an imaginary or barely visible line two arms lengths away from the body. If the majority of your time chopping was spent concentrating on accuracy, I'm sure you could get to that point, but I question whether a novice like me will ever get there, or have enough wood to cut to provide the practice to get there. My two major concerns are having a really solid handle by not cutting across the wood grain and having as much inherent accuracy by design as possible for when I'm sweating and shaky from exertion. Even if my accuracy was good to begin with, it's certainly not after 20 minutes of chopping. I consider it similar to throwing a baseball, for me to even get within 5 feet of the catcher is doing good, let alone putting it right in his glove every time. I might be able to do it by softly tossing the ball, but much less lightly throwing it full force. A lot of pitchers manage it, but they do so with a lot of practice.

I imagine the upswept handle would increase accuracy further, though there are limits on design based on how shock travels through the head and handle.
 
Last edited:
Gentleman, gentleman, gentleman.... Holy buckets.... im going to need to dust off the physics book just to keep up.
 
The deeper the belly of a haft (within reason) the better I like. It allows rolling of the head on impact from heel to toe.

regards...Frank
 
Preface: The following is simply my opinion based on a little experience and some thought, but not on any concrete evidence. When I'm done, feel free to call me a heretic if you feel so inclined. ;)

I have the Axe Book, and I think it's pretty good. However, there are a few things in there that I believe are presented in a manner that appears to be scientific; while in reality, the concepts are based mostly upon personal bias and musings. This is one of them, in my humble opinion. I agree that the actual deviation from wrist pivot is increased as the bit increases in distance from the "real axis of pivot." However, I think that the book greatly exaggerates the difference between the "presumed axis" and the "real axis." In the book, the real axis is based upon "the prolongation of the handgrip" (seemingly exaggerated as well, unless your grip is primarily based on the very bottom of the fawn's hoof - which its not), however, I think the "really real axis of pivot" is more based upon the center of gravity or balance point of the axe running along the length of the handle (which is basically the line established by the "string-suspension method"). So, basically I just disagree with the whole concept of where the axis really lies. I think that when you begin to swing an axe, you automatically adjust to the balance point. If every tool had to be used so that the "prolongation of the handgrip" lined up with the motion of work, then a lot of the tools we use are totally jacked up. I mean how the hell are you supposed to use a saw with a "D" handle. Your axis is exactly opposite of what it "should be."

JMHO, YMMV, so on and so forth. I like straight and curved handles. I also respect and appreciate other views and opinions, so no disrespect is intended. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Preface: The following is simply my opinion based on a little experience and some thought, but not on any concrete evidence...

YMMV, absolutely. And we all have personal preferences. However, a fair test of the "theory" (and a good basis for personal preference) would be to chop with two identical heads, one on a curved haft and one on a straight haft, with similar lengths and grip dimensions. How accurate are the strikes when you try to hit a previous cut?
 
I see curved handles being used in axe racing competitions. Do you suppose that racers haven't discovered the advantage of straight handles yet?

Edit: And OTOH, hammers which need great accuracy invariably are equipped with straight handles. I suppose the handle type might be task specific.
 
Last edited:
Wow! Great work! Thank you for showing.

We make our hafts nearly the same way. But we make most of them out of feeling and of old or broken handles which were already on the axe (and make the handles thicker than out of factory). But your paintings are also cool. I have to study them, when I have more time.

Thanks for this.

Kind regards
Andi
 
I see curved handles being used in axe racing competitions. Do you suppose that racers haven't discovered the advantage of straight handles yet?

Edit: And OTOH, hammers which need great accuracy invariably are equipped with straight handles. I suppose the handle type might be task specific.

If your racing there are other considerations, and as said above I'm not sure the real gains in accuracy would be worth the switch. When racing with a curved handle, you get a more pronounced lever to pull the handle up to get the axe out of the wood, and to roll the cut to sever the fibers alone the entire chip.

rehafting/handling fin:
P1140748.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top