Rehandling a Kabar

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Jun 18, 2010
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How? I figure I'll have to rip the current handle off (no idea how) and then glue the micarta blocks on (I told you about that part right?). But, how do I permanently attach them? Will there be a hook to cut a notch for in the micarta (if so I'll make my scales removable)?
Thanks in advance
 
Are you talking about the leather stacked handle type military KaBar?
I have done one of those...it's got a hidden tang. A full tang type blade is a lot easier to work with when replacing handles.
But if yours is the leather handle type I can kinda walk you through it.
 
Are you talking about the leather stacked handle type military KaBar?
I have done one of those...it's got a hidden tang. A full tang type blade is a lot easier to work with when replacing handles.
But if yours is the leather handle type I can kinda walk you through it.

Rayban: I'd be interested to see the procedure you have for this. I have several old Camillus blade blanks with hidden tangs, and I'd like to put leather washer and micarta disk handles on them.

~Chris
 
To take the existing handle apart, find the pin in the pommel and knock it out.
You'll find that the leather washers were piled and compressed onto the tang.
Then you need to get replacement washers. You can order them from knifekits.com, then reassemble.......dye the leather washers, you're back in business.
I got a little fancy with mine, made handles from Micarta, but a different story with routers, pins, glue, sanding, etc.

Ka-Barre-do001.jpg
 

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I'm using a kraton-handled Kabar if i depart on this project. I just can't bring myself to defile a leather handle like that, i don't know why.
 
Rayban:I have several old Camillus blade blanks with hidden tangs, and I'd like to put leather washer and micarta disk handles on them.

~Chris

Kudos on that usmc Rayban, It looks great. Orca, Would you mind posting a picture? :thumbup: If you would be so willing, I may be interested in one of those blanks.
 
I have several old Camillus blade blanks with hidden tangs, and I'd like to put leather washer and micarta disk handles on them.

If you bought them as NOS, before you put too much work into them, check to make sure whether they're heat-treated or not. I bought a few from SMKW after Camillus went belly-up; some were hardened, some were definitely not.

Frankly, even if they are, it's worth re-doing them. The factory ran 'em pretty soft; you can get a lot better edge-holding out of 1095 at 58 or even 60Rc without sacrificing toughness or ease-of-sharpening to any real noticeable degree.

K-bar will sell you a replacement kit with the correct size leather washers and pommel: (click on "Where would I be able to get replacement washer handle for a KA-BAR knife?")

Ka-Bar website said:
The process of compiling, compressing, shaping and coloring the leather washers used to create the traditional KA-BAR knife handles is best left to the experts. Still, if you've got the proper machinery and would like to give it a shot, we do offer a handle kit which includes washers, spacers and a butt cap. Please contact KA-BAR Customer Service at 800-282-0130 to place an order.
 
If you bought them as NOS, before you put too much work into them, check to make sure whether they're heat-treated or not. I bought a few from SMKW after Camillus went belly-up; some were hardened, some were definitely not.

Frankly, even if they are, it's worth re-doing them. The factory ran 'em pretty soft; you can get a lot better edge-holding out of 1095 at 58 or even 60Rc without sacrificing toughness or ease-of-sharpening to any real noticeable degree.

K-bar will sell you a replacement kit with the correct size leather washers and pommel: (click on "Where would I be able to get replacement washer handle for a KA-BAR knife?")
I always get Kbar Knives dated between 1943-1946 turned in to handle and replace and I make the black leather washer's as it is easier and faster to cut them and have them ready to go that ordering them and waiting. But the darn pins when they are old sometimes come in, sometimes break a punch but. I will now just soak in mineral oil and pound a few times, as punches that size and that hard are not cheap, so if they do not budge after a few sound hits I just put exactly level on my drill press and drill them just a little smaller then punch the remaining out. Because the remaining pin will collapse into the original hole and come right out but they can drive your crazy if they don't budge. It is just literally hit and miss. And some I do not know why someone wants to pay me around 100 and something dollars to handle because the knife is not worth that much, unless it is in original shape and size and has no damage. Then it is worth quite a bit, but if badly damaged, I just shrug and do the handle.
 
Mineral oil is not a good penetrant. Use WD 40 or WD 40 Specialist.
When sanding,finishing a leather handle, always grind/file sand it in the same direction.
 
Yep that’s what I use I have a 5 gallon barrel of WD 40 and a gallon bucket full that gets changed every six or so months. But still it is hit and miss with very old knives but if someone just wants handles replaced, the handle comes with a new butt.

If a collector wants a first generation restored to original condition. That has to soak a maybe three to four days and then the original parts set aside and refinished. Often the parts are so damaged it doesn’t matter but if it is something I have to manufacture and forge parts for it then gets expensive. But Kbar still sells replacement parts and of everything is damaged the worst I can have is having to use a drill press to go through both sides of the butt, However original restoration to like new using al original parts is a bit more challenging. Fortunately anything over 200 years old often needs research in the library to get exact dimensions and then presses, forges or inlays from there. I am still waiting for someone to bring something in with out major damage but so far they all need major work.

Thanks
 
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