Rehandling a razor

t1mpani

t1mpani

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Okay, I agreed to clean up/re-handle an old German straight razor that belongs to a family friend. The old handles are celluloid and in the process of breaking down, which has rusted the blade pretty well. Yes, of course, "buy a new razor" would be the simplest option, but this one has some family history and he would like to save the blade. I've got plans for the rust and bringing the blade back to working order.

So...... On the handles: of the various things I've shown him, he likes amboyna burl the best, and my thought had been to do wood on brass or stainless liners (to give the strength that a burl lacks) but then it hit me: a straight razor is a friction folder! If I were to do metal liners, is this blade going to just flop around under its own weight? The original celluloid handles were very tight and almost stretch as the blade is moved around in them, but initially I'd thought this was due to shrinking/warping.

Really appreciate any insight anyone can give---I'm used to restoring old knives but always fixed blades before and usually for the fun of it, not on heirlooms that actually mean something to someone.
 
i make my handles out of a single piece of wood or multi parts of Ti and a spacer
both ways i make them i use 1/8 inch folder pivots that can be tightened to what ever level you feel is right for tension
it also make it a breeze to take back apart for cleaning down the road
 
Traditional way is to peen the pivot pin so it is tight, but they loosen over time. There is also the risk of cracking the scale during peening. If it opens too easily then it is a little dangerous, particularly to people other than the owner who are not aware it will flop open.

You can normally retighten it by peening the pin a little, but not all users will want to do that and may prefer the ease of adjustment of a bolt, and the ease of cleaning as mentioned above. However the bolt option may not be desirable if it is a classic razor.
 
I just redid a razor a few weeks ago, it was my first, so take that into consideration. I used bamboo flooring material trimmed down to 3/16" and 3/32" brass pins. The tension on the blade is usually given from two things, peening the pivot 'til it feels right and the bend in the scales. The wedge I found is normally about 1/4 - 1/3 the thickness of the tang at the pivot, on the thick end. Be sure to pin the wedge first to get it nice and tight. Some people glue the wedge, some don't. Go thin on th liners, 1/32" or as thin as you can get. Some razors use pivot washers to help it open smoothly with metal liners. I am in the process of re-doing a couple more, so I can help you out if you have any questions. I am good at finding the wrong or difficult ways of doing things!

Have fun, and let's see it when your done!


-Xander
 
Thanks to all of you---my first move, I guess, is to look into what I'll be using for hardware and go from there. I'm sure I'll be checking back in. :D
 
Well, the rusted razor was REALLY rusted, to the point that I put the blade in some Evapo-rust for an hour and came back, to discover that the entire primary grind section was actually solid ferrous-oxide. Meaning that I now have a blade spine with no blade. Whatever idiot came up with celluloid handles for knives...

Well, I had components and materials, but hadn't put any work in beyond that (was waiting for wood) so at least I don't have a gorgeous ready-to-go handle. I am considering finding a better-condition razor to rehandle, though, for the hell of it.

New question: Why (beyond tradition) do razors feature a tapered wedge as a spacer? Why not a flat spacer like a regular folder? Is it only to pinch the blade and stop it from going through the handle? I ask because the wood I have is a fairly swirly-burl and I'm worried about the long-term stress of springing it flat to the blade off of an angled wedge, when I can easily put a rod through the front of the handle as a blade stop.
 
t1mpani said:
New question: Why (beyond tradition) do razors feature a tapered wedge as a spacer? Why not a flat spacer like a regular folder? Is it only to pinch the blade and stop it from going through the handle? I ask because the wood I have is a fairly swirly-burl and I'm worried about the long-term stress of springing it flat to the blade off of an angled wedge, when I can easily put a rod through the front of the handle as a blade stop.
Click to expand...

The tapered wedge puts some tension in the scales. The scales are sprung and have a little tension in them, it helps the blade and scales stay in the right open position. I like the feel of tension changing as you open the blade to a shaving position.

The tapered wedge also works with the tapered tang, making the scales bow out when the blade is closed, this allows the opening to small near the wedge end and wider nearer where the the tang slips into the scales when the blade is closed.

All this being said, a straight spacer and a adjustable pivot will also work. To me it is a preference thing. I have made razors both ways. I just prefer the old school way a little bit better.

Charlie
 
You could have used a thin stainless liner.
Note: Evaporust and other products containing phosphoric acid should not be used on thin steel, or on springs. Now you know why.
 
Charlie Lewis said:
The tapered wedge puts some tension in the scales. The scales are sprung and have a little tension in them, it helps the blade and scales stay in the right open position. I like the feel of tension changing as you open the blade to a shaving position.

The tapered wedge also works with the tapered tang, making the scales bow out when the blade is closed, this allows the opening to small near the wedge end and wider nearer where the the tang slips into the scales when the blade is closed.

All this being said, a straight spacer and a adjustable pivot will also work. To me it is a preference thing. I have made razors both ways. I just prefer the old school way a little bit better.

Charlie
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!


Bill DeShivs said:
Note: Evaporust and other products containing phosphoric acid should not be used on thin steel, or on springs. Now you know why.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm thinking it was too violent, but I'm not sure how much hope there was regardless. I don't think it could have stood the pressure of me pushing on it with sandpaper. Perhaps a mineral oil soak? This was right before it went in.
IMG_3653.jpg

Even now, with the surrounding areas that are still left, you can try and scratch them with a nail and it's nothing but brown underneath. I don't know that there's much of anything there but rust.

I will check out that series, Starvin!
 
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You should see it post-Evaporust. :D I told the owner it was a long shot.
 
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