Rehandling Sog's?

F

fishwatcher

Joined
Nov 26, 2002
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328
Has anybody re-handled their Sog Winder II's or Tomcat's?

I would love to see pic's. The kraton rubber insert seems like an easy target to remove and replace with micarta, wood, carbon fiber, etc.

Easy for somebody who knew what they were doing. I wouldn't have a clue.

Thanks for looking.
 
Fishwatcher, I have never done this to these SOGs (just bone on SOG outline), but have to many other brands with rubber inserts. It's real easy to do, because you can remove handles and trace onto wood or whatever material you are using. All you have to do is reverse and trace from flat side of rubber.
The key is to use good glue, and grind new handle down to match bolsters, then polish, or leave a brushed finish. Most all of this can be done with dremel or sander, except cutting out new slabs. Or you can cut new slabs with saw, and make curve for bolster with dremel. The trick is to cut bolster side first, glue and fit tight, then cut off excess at end of knife.
You could do it easily, in about two hours, especially if you start with a flat peice of wood, about the thickness of bolsters at highest point, then there would be very little sanding.
Robbie Roberson ;)
 
Hi Robbie.
I've got an old Sogwinder that I'd like to re-handle. The rubber is sticky and spongy. It's also wearing thin near the lanyard hole.

So what is a good glue?? I've got come cocobola wood that I think would look nice that I'm going to use.

Thanks in advance.
 
rnr, I have been using gorilla glue, found at home depot, it seems to hold real well on metal, clean metal well, and then scratch it up a little before glueing. You can drill lanyard hole after you get one side glued, or not drill at all, making a nice smooth handle. That wood will make a wonderful looking knife, good luck, keep us posted on completion.
Robbie Roberson ;)
 
Thanks Robbie.

The wood came from a couple guys at work that make pens. They have the lathe and etc and I've got a pen or two from them. Anyway....
Yeah, I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I've had the knife since around '88-ish. It'll take me a while to get this done 'cause I work slow. Kinda like my mine.... :p :) :)
 
rnr, we would love to see it when it's done. I have really enjoyed doing these kinds of projects over the years. The simple way is to trim the wood to fit bolster curve first, then lay them down flat on proper side, one side at a time, mark edge overhang with a pencil around handles, then trim one at a time fairly close to pencil mark, always leave a little room, at least 1/8 th inch overhang on handles, then do the other side same way, glue and let sit for a day. Then use dremel or sander to cut down to knife handle, if your careful, you may not have to do any polishing of scuff marks on knife handles.
Note, careful when cutting off overhang, sometimes rotary tools or sanders will catch edge of handle and crack or try to pull them off. You may want to do one side at a time, it's easier to grind down one edge, because you don't have the other edge to get in the way.

Robbie Roberson ;)
 
leads me to ask this: If the runner wears out totally on my Pentagon, what will I fond underneath? Is it a metal tang enclosed in plastic or something?

Enquiring minds wanna know!

I could imagine rehandling in lignum vitae or maple burl, etc.

Keith
 
I rehandled a Tsunami, has a full tang underneath the kraton.

Here's the result
Tsunami.JPG
 
Ferrous Wheel said:
leads me to ask this: If the runner wears out totally on my Pentagon, what will I fond underneath? Is it a metal tang enclosed in plastic or something?

Enquiring minds wanna know!

I could imagine rehandling in lignum vitae or maple burl, etc.

Keith
Click to expand...

Keith, there is a full tang under your Pentagon. It extends to beyond the lanyard hole. If you rehandle your Pentagon, would you share pics? I'm thinking of having my new Tech I and Pentagon rehandled.

Heber
 
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