Rehang the no name

[schmittie]

Before I say anything, please let me say thanks to you all for sharing your experience. I have thoroughly enjoyed your pictures and this subforum is constantly a learning experience, both in history and in using the tools we love.



Now, my humble project:

I looked through my father in law's tool shed and found a few unmarked axes that cryed for attention. Since the one on the right looked like the handle could be saved, I picked that one. (Who hangs it like that on purpose?!) I apologize. I'm still learning when it comes to identifying styles and patterns. Judging from the smaller head, would this be a boys axe?

Here is the view from the top. It's a mess. (And its the one on the left now) what kind of nails/wedges are those??

With lots of chiseling and prying I finally got em out.

I forget whom it is that always mentions keeping the natural patina (Square-peg?) but it seemed appropriate. So I just wire brushed the head and cleaned it up with some WD-40. I don't have a tremendous amount of experience with sharpening an old axe, but this one seemed excessively hard. I spent several hours with a file and it still needs more attention. There are some chips in the bit. Also, is it just me, or does the left side of the bit seem straighter and the right a little more steep?

Sorry, it's hard to tell with that picture.


I spent plenty if time reshaping to fit the head down to the shoulder. But I got it eventually.

Forgot to mention earlier about the tools I used. My inlaws have a thing about the country setting and atmosphere. They live in an old historical house with the original barns on site. Walking around the barn and house reminds me of Cracker Barrel. So I picked up some of the aged, unused hand tools. A Simonds file and Hamond? rasp both made in USA. The majority of the work was done with these.

All I have to do (I think) is cut a new wedge. What do you think?

 

[cooperhill]

I like to use good single cut bastard files for reprofiling/sharpening. I picked up some old vintage Johnson files and they are great.

Looks fine. I personally do not like to leave a shelf/bump/transition at the bottom of the axe. It has the tendency to loosen up if you don't get enough wedge in. At this point, it doesn't look like you are going to get a lot of wedge in (IMO) as the kerf is pretty closed up. if you can rasp that transition down a bit and seat the axe a tad lower, it might work out good for you.

 

[schmittie]

Ah. You bring up a good point. I forgot the pic of the kerf. Did I cut down too far? Should I go ahead and rasp it down like you said an allow more room for a wedge?

How much space should I allow?

 

[mattyak]

Schmittie, it looks like your off to a good start. I think what Cooperhill is saying is that where your head seats itself down on the shoulder of the axe should be more of a gradual taper and less of a shelf. This means that when you seat the head onto the handle it will tighten and sit more better as it slide down the handle onto the shoulder. Meaning better fit and less tendency to loosen over use. Keep at it and good luck.

 

[schmittie]

That makes sense. "Shelf" removal is next step.

 

[mattyak]

That makes sense. "Shelf" removal is next step.

*chuckle* been there.. keep at it. It'll come together.

 

[Square_peg]

I think you're doing fantastic. You're gonna love that axe when you're finished.

Since the one on the right looked like the handle could be saved, I picked that one. Judging from the smaller head, would this be a boys axe?

I'd guess you have a couple of 3-pound Michigan patterns axes there. Not boy's axes.

I forget whom it is that always mentions keeping the natural patina (Square-peg?) but it seemed appropriate.

I'm one of several proponents of saving the patina but I might be the most religious about it. I'm big on saving handles, too, but Frank (New Zealand) is the Godfather of that.

I don't have a tremendous amount of experience with sharpening an old axe, but this one seemed excessively hard.

A couple things could be affecting your perception there. First off the patina layer is always harder than the underlying steel. It can be a real bugger to get the file cutting under the patina layer. Once you're past the patina it gets easier. The other thing is that the old file might not be quite as sharp as it once was even if it was little used. A small bit of rust can dull a file. Old Simonds files have been very good in my experience. Remember to only cut on the push stroke and to lift the file up off of the axe for the return stroke. Dragging the return stroke will also dull a file. And brushing the chips out of the teeth with a file card helps, too.

Also, is it just me, or does the left side of the bit seem straighter and the right a little more steep?

I often wonder that when I'm profiling an edge. To me the side with the better lighting always looks like it has a more gradual taper. I turn the axe around and get the light on the other side before decide what I'm really seeing. If it's close enough that it's hard to tell then it probably doesn't make any difference.

I agree with Coop that shoulder needs to be tapered. A sharp shelf creates a weak spot in the haft. Taper the shoulder into the axe head and if appropriate then taper it into the handle, too. Bulges aren't good.

All I have to do (I think) is cut a new wedge. What do you think?

When I have an axe with a narrow gap for the wedge like that then I either make a slim wedge with a gentle taper or I open up the kerf a little wider. In any case I like to get the wedge about halfway into the eye. The more gently tapered a wedge is the less likely it is to come out.

You've got a couple of great vintage axes there. They'll be excellent all-around tools (choppers/splitters) when you're finished.

 

[garry3]

Ah. You bring up a good point. I forgot the pic of the kerf. Did I cut down too far? Should I go ahead and rasp it down like you said an allow more room for a wedge?

How much space should I allow?

Looks like you might have a couple boys axes on full size handles. Its all good.
That file you got there. Was common in auto body work. I use them on occasion for wood. Doesn't leave tooth marks of a rasp.
Good job.

 

[mtangent]

To get rid of the shelf, I like to whittle it off. It makes for a smoother look, & I enjoy it more than rasping.
With the kerf/wedge situation, if you can cut a suitable wedge, you don't need to widen the kerf. But it looks to me like the kerf is being closed up when placed in the head. If this is the case, I would rasp a bit off the outside, rather than widening the kerf. It looks good when not in the head.