Speaking here as 300 person.
Newer - Nickle Silver and recently Brass. Yes, I agree with your statements.
In another thread, or three, discussion continues of "strength". But in my opinion, such discussion changes when going from a large lockback to a knife that rests in your pocket and opens letters and trims fingernails. Only in emergency where I had nothing else,would I be taking a 301 and doing extra-heavy duty cutting, I haven't had one of those events in a while. They just are not designed for 'whacking', 'chopping' or pushing on with your full body weight anything. So, strength will mean different things relative to the size and design of the knife. I know everyone understands this.
Lets use the new brass bolstered and linered 301 as an example for discussion. The brass will not give this knife high marks in some U-tube endurance test survival adventure maximum action. But, it will last a lifetime, cut well and have really good looks for use as a pocketknife. In my life, in my normal hunting and fishing world it would do fine. If I am going on a true big adventure, such as a western big game hunt, I would always have on me a big knife and a pocket knife. I know the OP wasn't asking this, but all this limb whacking in the threads and the tube's, is just not normal for the real backwoods folks I have met on the trail. They will always carry a stout hatchet an more likely a 3/4 axe. I would not use any Buck, except maybe one of the Ron Hood models to clear light brush. I do have two hatchets, one axe, two bow saws and a machete for that type of cutting.
So 300 series strength to me means, meets the everyday wear and tear of normal life, folds and unfolds thousands of times without getting a floppy blade. If I need to cut a garden hose in the yard or a rope on a boat it will do that too without ill effect.
I have a good bunch of old Cami and Buck made 300s , you will see some pivot pin heads that are not invisible, which shows pretty long or heavy use. Most all of these are nickel silver bolstered. I can tell you all the pins are stronger(SS) than the bolsters, that's why you see them easily with age. I can not make a determination if there is a difference in the few 80's Buck models with SS bolsters without digging them all out making some kind of examination. Nickle silver is used as a compromise in machining, weathering, good looks and strength. Brass has good weathering, good looks and slightly less strength. SS is the toughest but because of machining costs will likely be left behind in the compromise of costs.
I believe in the end I will say, the harder a 300 is used the more it looks like it was used. How's that for a cop out....300
I hate to post these as most of the regular posters have seen them several times. But, it helps in understanding the pin and bolster effect. This is a Camillus Buck. For someone seeing this for the first time note the swelled pivot pin ends. This is a well used knife with brass liners.
This is a Buck bolster. The bolster and liner are one piece. Pins still slightly swollen on the ends.
