Relatively cheap, light, and small wharncliffe / straight edge folder?

Comeuppance

Comeuppance

Fixed Blade EDC Emisssary
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Jan 12, 2013
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(Let's play a game called "How many recommendation threads can Comeuppance make in a month?")

This is a bit of a continuation of a previous thread I made wherein I asked if anyone knew of a high-quality light sturdy boxcutter. The suggestion of a Cold Steel Tuff Lite came up, and, while I've dismissed that knife out of hand ever since it came out, I've had to reconsider it. I might as well just accept that folding boxcutters are crap and just get a small folder.

Are there other options, though? It has to be kinda small (3" blade maximum, 2-2.5" is ideal, but absolutely not under 1.5"), light (4oz or under), cheap ($40 max - it's taking the place of a boxcutter. It'll get beaten up.), non-automatic and non-assisted, and durable. A pocket clip is absolutely necessary as well.

The Tuff Lite has a lot going for it, but it being a lockback means that it'll be considerably slower for me to close than, say, a linerlock. So, I've looked at SanRenMu's product line, and the 702 seems like a good option... But it's not all that stout.

Things I'm also looking at, and would love some feedback on:
Boker Wharcom Subcom
Boker Elegance Nopal
 
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Have you looked at the Kershaw Leek? Or the CRKT Folding Stubby Razel? Both small, straight edge, inexpensive, etc.
 
Kershaw Leek or Needs Work.
Though, I would go with the $38 Kershaw Composite Leek Blem from Kershaw Guy. It's light, folding, frame lock, pocket clip, 3" blade length, spring assisted but not automatic, I think you could even take the assist out(and it still have a detent) if you were inclined to do so.

The Kershaw Composite Leek has a D2 steel cutting edge so it's a great performer and holds a good edge.

I would go with this over the Needs Work. I really dislike the plasticy and bulky handles.
 
definitely going with the group on the needs work or leek. Depends on how chunky of a knife you want
 
Honestly, a lockback isn't really any slower to close than any other lock, with practice. Really, we're talking fractions of a second. Heck, I prefer a lockback over a liner or frame lock because the closing method doesn't put my fingers in the way of the blade path which makes me less likely to cut myself.

That said, the CS Tuff Lite likely would suit you well, but I'll also echo other people's recommendations for a Kershaw Leek. I carried one for a while, and always loved the blade profile for dirty stuff like cutting boxes. Use the heck out of it, but don't abuse it. The thin profile cuts great, but if you do anything stupid with it, like prying (even a staple) or using it as a screwdriver, the tip will be broken and ruined. A knife is meant to cut. You need to do a different job, use the appropriate tool.

I would also recommend looking into a Byrd (a budget Spyderco brand) Meadowlark Rescue. It's called a "rescue" because the blunted, sheepsfoot blade is good for cutting straps and seatbelts to extract a victim of an accident. But the serrated edge and straight blade also makes it an excellent tool for cutting up boxes. The knives in Spyderco's Byrd line give you great fit and finish with nice materials like G-10 fiberglass handles, a decent steel that holds an edge alright, and easy to sharpen to a very sharp edge, all without breaking the bank on a knife you plan to use daily and not worry if remains pretty and pristine.
 
I dunno, it sounds like you really should give the Tuff Lite a go. It feels like a tanky folding box cutter, really. It's small and light in the pocket, <$30 to buy, and you can still grip it with your full hand thanks to the big choil.

I have mine thinned down a bit at the edge, and I use it for whittling, but I sliced up some boxes and it felt pretty well suited to the task. I will admit that the lock is a bit obnoxious to use, though. Mine came stiff as hell, though it wore in with a little use and is easier now.
 
Alright, so, I made a huge, glaring omission in my OP - it originally said "non-automatic", but it should have said "non-automatic and non-assisted." Assisted knives are of questionable legality in my state :/

I'll have to look at the Byrd Rescue knives - I'd forgotten about those.
 
I love my Boker WharCom for specifically the purpose you listed - it's a nice flat lightweight replacement for a utility knife. I use it around the house all the time for that sort of work. The blade sharpens easily to a razor edge and holds it pretty well. Not bad for $30, if you can find them. I believe they have been discontinued.
 
When I worked retail and had to cut open a thousand boxes a day my knife of choice was a liner-lock Kershaw Scallion. The assist made it come out easily every time, and because it's assisted the pivot screw can be tighter so you get solid lockup. The blade was short which made it more precise. Try cutting tape on a package with a long blade, it's more difficult to get the tip where you want it. It's like trying to poke a specific spot on a wall with a long stick. The shorter the stick, the easier it is to do. Also because it's a speedsafe, you can't accidentally close the knife on your thumb, since you'll need to use your thumb to ultimately close the knife. As far as a pocket clip goes... I used magnets. Yup, two very strong neodymium magnets 1/2in by 1/2in disc magnets. One inside my pocket, the other attracted to it on the outside. The knife's liners and pocket clip solidly attracted to the magnets and that made grabbing it and putting it away faster than any pocket clip. The full stainless framelock scallion attracted a bit too strongly.

Anyway, that's my boxcutter folder of choice. The Leek was probably my second choice. Since that job I've attained dozens more knives. The Kershaw Oso sweet might have worked well now I think on it. You can always take the torsion bar out if you don't like the assist. And I don't see the need for a wharncliffe blade. But that's just my experience.
 
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