Relearning how to sharpen my knives

G

gwertheim

Joined
Jun 15, 2022
Messages
5
So I am relearning how how to sharpening my knives after being spoiled by getting my chef knife expertly sharpened by my sous chef on a slow night before covid started.

Since I don't work there anymore and my knives are getting a bit dull, I have to reteach myself how to sharpen my own work knives again (execpt my k sabatier 1834 series of knives which I take back to where I got it for sharpening).

I have a Naniwa Professional 1000 grit stone and I am wondering if I can use that stone on my benchmade bugout and if I should get a higher grade stone to get a finer edge than the 1000 can do.
 
Is your Bugout s30v? If so, the Naniwa stone should work fine. If it's s90v you may want to sharpen it on diamonds.

In my opinion, 1000 is a good grit if you're only going to have one stone. It'll give you a hazy bevel, which a lot of people like. If you want something shinier, you could add a 3k stone. If you have chips, or want to reprofile the edge, you'll want something more aggressive.
 
See how you feel about the edge. Not everybody finishes their edges the same, because we don't use them all the same.
Also, stropping wouldn't hurt.
 
I own a 220, 1000 and 4000, followed by a leather strop with green compound. For me, that is an ideal combination. For D2, I skip the 4000 as superfluous. My D2s reach maximum sharpness after the 1000. The 4000 dulls the edge for some reason. BUT, for me a single 1000 is all I need. Everything else is not necessary.
 
Thanks all,

Been trying to decide what would work best for the knives I have and will get. Was thinking of a sharpening system like the edge pro but want to learn how to do it myself.
 
I was in a similar position, wanting to relearn how to sharpen. Wound up with a bunch of different stones & a couple of guided systems. Imho (an amateur opinion), the biggest factor in deciding what to use will be your knife steels. If they’re fairly forgiving (high carbon, for example) there are tons of relatively inexpensive options. OTOH, if they’re modern, “hard” steels (like S90V), you may want diamonds.

Good luck!
 
My Bugout is the s30v steel and my k sabatier and Victorianox are soft so I am not too worried.

I think a stone, a container and a towel is better than a whole setup.
 
I think you’re right. I sharpen S30V on more, umm, “economy class” stones than your Naniwa, and they perform just fine with it.
 
Spats McGee said:
I think you’re right. I sharpen S30V on more, umm, “economy class” stones than your Naniwa, and they perform just fine with it.
Click to expand...

I'm not too worried, i will do more damage to my practice knife than any stone could do but it's good to know I was gifted the right stone.
 
Off topic but I was wondering your opinion on the stainless K Sab. (Z50c13 steel). Ever compare it to german stainless like Zwilling?
 
P_A_S_1 said:
Off topic but I was wondering your opinion on the stainless K Sab. (Z50c13 steel). Ever compare it to german stainless like Zwilling?
Click to expand...

When I was initially researching knife brands, I was told that Zwilling was not at the level of quality I was looking for when I wanted a knife that would last me 20+ yrs. Because of past experiences I understand metallurgy, I haven't dug too deeply into the properties of the steels (for my own sanity).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top