Relieving the sharp corners

[Gary W. Graley]

I know that I get knives in all the time with very crisp edges on the liners of the folder, some very sharp that feel like it would cut you if you were not careful. When the maker/mfg finish the handle scales they dress the surface down to even out the scale and liners but they end up leaving it too crisp. So I usually try to scrape down those edges with the awl on my SAK folder but that also is kind of inherently dangerous to do as a slight miss and you could end up stabbing your hand, making it not a fun day So I just got this deburring tool in, came with spare blades that you can put a few in the hollow handle and it worked great to knock down the edges!

This knife was in that way and needed to be cleaned up, I waited until the tool arrived, today, and removed the sharp edges, now, much safer!

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Recommended and only cost around $14 or so and for what I'll use it for, it will last a very long time!

G2

 

[Guy McVer]

I know that I get knives in all the time with very crisp edges on the liners of the folder, some very sharp that feel like it would cut you if you were not careful. When the maker/mfg finish the handle scales they dress the surface down to even out the scale and liners but they end up leaving it too crisp. So I usually try to scrape down those edges with the awl on my SAK folder but that also is kind of inherently dangerous to do as a slight miss and you could end up stabbing your hand, making it not a fun day So I just got this deburring tool in, came with spare blades that you can put a few in the hollow handle and it worked great to knock down the edges!

This knife was in that way and needed to be cleaned up, I waited until the tool arrived, today, and removed the sharp edges, now, much

Recommended and only cost around $14 or so and for what I'll use it for, it will last a very long time!

G2

Interesting, but... if I was having this issue then I would use a small file to round the edge and smooth it out with some fine grit sandpaper. Or I would skip the file altogether and start with p400 and work my way to p3000. Is there some reason why you can't do that? Sandpaper is cheap and it has a million uses.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Just simpler to run the deburr tool down the edge, I can tune up any rough spots with sandpaper if needed but the tool removes the crisp edge quickly and easily.
and the finer dust/grit from sandpaper you will need to make sure that you clean out any that might fall into the mechanism of the folder, the deburr tool removes the burr so those are easier to make sure nothing is left behind.
G2

 

[Guy McVer]

Just simpler

fair enough.

I'd still prefer not to waste 14 bucks on a specialty item when a general solution already exists.

the finer dust/grit from sandpaper you will need to make sure that you clean out any that might fall into the mechanism of the folder

You can avoid that by masking it with tape and by not sanding with the knife facing up, so gravity will not help pull the dust down into it.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Yeah, it can but for years now I've just used the awl on my SAK folders, not the back sided ones but the one that extends out the end and that's worked but like I say, a bit scary at times.

The thing with this deburr tool is....it's to deburr and if you've not used one, they are very handy for a variety of things, the blade swivels so you can follow circles or curves, it'll be something that I'll make use of for a lot of things.
G2

 

[davek14]

I still have a couple of those in my toolbox which I purchased while employed as a machinist. Very handy tool which I used daily for decades. You can get into sharp corners and tight spots more easily and uniformly than a file or sandpaper. They are commonly used for smaller and/or more complex parts for that reason. I've spent many a day deburring with one while the machine ran.

I have used them to actually shape knife scales as well as deburring them. Like making a depression on one side to access the nail nick and the like. You can even carefully shape the liner and make it look good if you are careful.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Thanks, good to hear that others have used this tool as well. I remember seeing the guys in our machine shop use them all the time and only recently decided to pick one up for myself and glad that I did. That $14 also included 10 of those sharp hardened bits, you can store several in the handle and the rest are in a snap closing plastic case, so, I felt you got a lot for your money.

G2

 

[Crag the Brewer]

I have 2 of them, slightly larger handles.... One I keep Sharp for plastics, and one is for just metal. Two different colors to easily see which is which.

BBecareful though. I cut myself all the time across my hand/wrist that is holding the part.
They are good for inside radii, but not so great on outside ones.

You will learn different body postures when using them. Holding the parts a certain way makes for easier use.

Nice to have.


*I use small honing stones for softening sharp edges on knife parts.
or sanding paper/sponges on their handles.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Thanks! great tip there, and I may grind down the bulb end so it fits better into smaller framed folders too.
G2

 

[Crag the Brewer]

I feel the "bulb" is a safety feature.

I'd have slit my wrists At Least a dozen times already, without them.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

yikes, well, I planned to 'gently' shrink and smooth that bulb somewhat, as some folders have a narrow frame, so I will keep your warning in mind!
G2

 

[azerik]

I've used those for years. It's one of the first things I did to my Can-Am X3. I swear they sharpen all the body plastic for fun before shipping them to dealers.

 

[eveled]

I use one of those to debur tubing before flaring. I never thought to use it for anything else.