I've been collecting my 5.56/.223 and .40 brass for a while now just for the heck of it. I'd like to get into reloading, but I have no idea where to start. I dont know what my budget is, because I don't know what is the least I can get away with to reload both those calibers. I dont need a fully automated set up, but I also dont want to have to smelt my own sh*t.
Where can I start?
Whats a good basic setup that will reload a few boxes a month. Are there any good websites better than other? Good videos?
It's probably time to reopen this topic. There are a lot of ways/equipment/resources with which to begin reloading. I recommend the
beginner first purchase a current Hornady reloading manual. I believe Hornady prints the most informative and well illustrated reloading manual out there. The early chapters describe and
illustrate in detail the why and how of reloading. However, all the various manufacturers Load Manuals are worth having - eventually.
The new reloader should be aware that each bullet manufacturer produces it's own ammunition recipe book, and for good reason. The information contained in the Speer, Hornady, Sierra, etc. manuals do not necessarily reflect each other's load testing experience, but only indicate their testing experience with their own bullet designs.
As for hardware, I recommend the
beginning reloader
start with a single-stage press. Avoid the basic Lee Loader type
kits that involve the use of a hammer to resize and prime cases. The most basic of single stage presses (for example, the Lee single stage press) will produce good quality reloads with appropriate attention to detail. Most single stage presses include a method of priming cases. You may find you want to update to a secondary or specialized tool for priming cases at a later date. I have (and use) many different types and brands of presses, including an old RCBS RockChucker, a Lee basic, as well as Texan and Lyman vintage multi-station presses. The old tools are cool! And massively heavy!
You will need a set of reloading dies for each particular caliber you want to reload. You mentioned 5.56 and .40 so you'd need to purchase a set of dies for each caliber. All manufacturers dies will make good ammo if the owner does his part. I started out (back in the early '60's) with RCBS, mostly because that was advertised most in the popular magazines. They are good tools with a good warranty. All of today's companies manufacture tools of comparable quality and value. I have begun switching my dies out from RCBS to Hornady as I much prefer the Hornady bullet seater design. Your mileage may vary.
You will need a shell holder for each caliber that has a different case head dimension. For example, one case holder can be used for 30-06, .308, and .45 ACP because their case head dimensions are all alike. You would need a different shell holder, however, to load for the 5.56 because it's case head is a different dimension.
You will need an accurate powder scale. Accuracy in measuring quantities of powder becomes very important when approaching maximum velocities of any load. I use an old scale made by Ohause which uses a magnetic approach to weight system and is basically a balance-beam design, but any modern scale will do what is needed. There are some very inexpensive electronic scales on the market. I have not used one so I can't voice an opinion on either their accuracy or their safety.
You will need a method of measuring case lengths. While not too fond of Chinese imports, for a beginner Harbor Freight occasionally offers it's 6" digital readout calipers for $9.95. If I were just starting out I might swallow my sense of marketing/manufacturing fairness and go for one of these. Again, YMMV.
You will need a method of adjusting (shortening) case lengths. Cases tend to 'grow' when fired and when resized. This increase in case length must be kept at or below the maximum case length standard. There are many good tools available that will allow you to correct over-length cases. I personally prefer a file trim die, but some very well engineered mini-lathe type tools are available. I lean toward the die because it's really difficult to mess up with one - it's impossible to get a case too short, for example. Again, YMMV.
You will need a method of cleaning cases. When just starting out, and before you've fully committed to the hobby of reloading you may simply settle for cleaning your cases with everyday metal polishing products, such as Brasso. It's a little labor intensive but it will do the trick. If you are already committed to producing your own ammunition then you might want to consider a vibrating tumbler - case cleaner. Load the cleaner tub with ground corn cob or other commercial products, toss in your dirty, oxidized brass cases and turn it on. When you empty the vibrator the cases will be as shiny as new.
You will eventually want a method of dispensing powder. Hand measuring each charge of powder for each empty case becomes mind numbing if many reloads are involved at one time. Consider some sort of powder dispenser to speed up this step. I have a couple RCBS rotary measures I routinely use that are more than accurate enough for any load requirement. I use the RCBS Little Dandy powder measure for pistol loads, and the larger RCBS powder measure for rifle cases in excess of the 5.56. YMMV
Over time there will be many more specialized tools you will add to your tool chest. For example, primer pocket cleaners, both large and small, case neck brushes for scrubbing powder residue from fired cases, and even a primer pocket swager die set for removing the crimp from military cases, a specialized trimmer to remove the excess brass from inside the case around the flash hole, and many, many more goodies the confirmed reloader eventually accumulates.
Good luck, happy reloading, and keep your powder dry.
Thanks guys.
