Remove scratches from knife

[Screwloose]

i feel like i always get minor scratches on the surface of my knives and was wondering if anyone had any easy ways to buff or get them out without needing any expensive power tools or anything.

 

[keatonirizarry]

I would try to use flitz polish or any other kind of metal polish.

 

[sintro]

I myself like to use a cordless drill with a paint buffer (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...lishing-kit/_/N-25ol?itemIdentifier=7514_0_0_) I use a variety of compounds. Meguiars polishing compound gives a mirror polish, while plastx cuts a bit faster with a slightly not as clear finish.

 

[Screwloose]

Nice ill have to try that. Thanks guys

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Wet/dry sandpaper. Choose the grit based on desired finish. Anything between 400 - 800 usually leaves a 'satin' finish, and 1000 - 2000+ will begin to produce/restore a mirror polish. Avoid 320 grit or below, as it'll make scratches that are very deep, and will be more difficult to refine/erase. Start at the highest grit possible (approximating the finish of the blade), and step down to lower grit only if it isn't effective, or much too slow. Once above 2000 grit, then the polishing pastes become much more effective. Polishing pastes like Flitz/Simichrome usually won't remove scratches that are very deep at all (it'll make 'em stand out even more, as the surrounding un-scratched finish becomes more polished), so the surface needs to be in pretty good shape beforehand, with deep scratches minimized as much as possible.

Try the polishing pastes first (you might get lucky), and if you find it's not quite working, then go to the sandpaper, and work back up the grit sequence (don't skip grits).


David

 

[Czechmate]

I've started as low as 180 grit for some blades depending on what condition of the knife is like... Deep scratches typically need a lower grit to remove them in my experience.

I've used everything from plumber's tape (180 grit) to woodworking sandpaper (220 grit), aluminum oxide (various grits), silicon carbide (various grits) and a slew of polishing products and buffing compounds with mixed results.

Like sharpening, polishing a blade is a learning process for sure. :thumbup: Sanding a blade by hand can be a rewarding experience even though it's a lot of work!

 

[FTR-14c]

I wrap the sanding paper around a rectangular pencil eraser and use that on the blade. I feel it helps keep even contact to get the lines even and consistent. It can be turned on its side to get at those tight places.