Remove the blk coat - how to?

Santi

Santi

Joined
Sep 12, 2000
Messages
2,483
Have been thinking of getting a satin finish on my basic 3 ;)


2koke1



IIRC, Jody said somewhere one could use acetone?
:confused: :rolleyes: :confused:
 
hi santi-
yes, i removed the coating of a as with acetone.
be careful, as i don't know what acetone or it's fumes will do to resiprine c.
i simply dropped the shaker in a jar of acetone ror 10- 15 minutes, scraped off what was loose i believe with a rat tail. the little that was left came off a minute or 3 later.
a wire wheel gave it a very cool look.
good luck
jody
 
I soaked my Swamp Rat CT in Acetone over night. The coating came right off, with only a little sticky stuff left on the blade. :) Some 600 grit sand paper gave it a nice finish. Made sure very little if any Acetone got on the resiprine c. handle. Don't think it would be a problem if it did, but it can't hurt to be carefull. ;)

If your Basic 3 is differentially tempered, it will have a nice temper line after you strip it with the acetone. :)

Heber
 
santi, how are you able to post pictures if you do not have a membership? Of course, I am not exactly tech savvy.
 
If you want your black coated knife to go satin.........USE IT.
It will turn satin as a reward for your hard work
 
I removed the coating off of two Swamp Rats with Jasco paint and epoxy remover. Wear gloves and do it outside and there shouldn't be a problem. This stuff works in about ten minutes, then I just used a plastic scraper and it comes right off.
 
I've used Bix water soluable (sp?) remover on all my coating removal jobs, and it doesnt stink too bad. Everything cleans up with plain water as well, wich is a big bonus to me, I dont like using solvents.

I've used acetone on other projects but it evaporates too fast for me, Bix and other removers work in very little time and wont dry out too fast.
 
Hey Skunk, where is the talon hole on that knife?
 
this is actually a basic 3.5 proto full infi of early origin before talon holes became a big hit :rolleyes:
 
I'd be really careful with acetone concerning any kind of plastics. I use it fairly often for cleaning, degreasing and as a paint solvent. I have accidentaly destroyed numerous synthetic things with it, including clothes. Once I even glued (or melted, basically) my computer's mouse to the mousepad with an accidental spill.

I don't remember my chemistry at all really anymore, so I can't say about the types of materials it eats away easily. At least ABS, styrene, PVC, acrylic, some PE-plastics (though I buy mine in a PE-HD bottle) and polycarbonates are in the danger zone. If it wouldn't be possible to test the handle material in long term, I would try to seal off the handle as well as possible, even from the fumes. Of course, if the resistance can be confirmed (from the manufacturer?), no problem there then.

Acetone evaporates real easy, and it's really flammable, so that's the biggest reason for caution. Short term, it isn't that dangerous for ones health externally, makes your skin dry. The fumes make you feel slightly woozy and maybe give you a headache. Long term and in large amounts, iirc, it can inflame your organs and cause kidney damage. If you were able to drink it (whitch I sincerely doubt) you'd probably pass out and wake up hung over with a flammable sweat. I also wouldn't relieve myself near an open fire. ;)

Anyway, I tried to remove the coating from my Glock field knife with acetone. Didn't do much good interestingly. I used a rust remover gel (phosphoric acid, less than 10% conc.), which worked decently.

It'd be real interesting to find out what kind of resistances to different chemicals all the coatings used nowadays have... I wouldn't have figured that Busse's coating is so susceptible to acetone.

Apologies for the ot babble and the unwieldy use of English. Not a native speaker ;)
 
I'd also make damn sure to keep Jasco or Kleen-Strip methylene chloride stripper off ANYTHING I didn't want to be melted or burned. If you choose to use a MC-based stripper, buy the gel rather than the liquid, wear heavy gloves made for paint stripping as noted above, work outside, and WEAR EYE PROTECTION. I've gotten Jasco on my skin before, and it takes about 15 seconds for it to start burning (interestingly enough, IME it stops burning after a minute or two. Be less stupid than me and wash it off with a lot of running water before any time goes by, though).

I recall reading somewhere that Res-C was tested with a wide range of chemicals (including paint strippers) and showed good resistance, but never found any details. In my experience MC will eat through all kinds of stuff, and do so rapidly (don't try putting the stripper in a styrofoam cup!). If you have the time, Citri-Strip will (probably) produce the same results. I haven't tested it on blade coatings, but it strips oil and latex paints as effectively as MC. The major advantage is its slow reaction- you can stick your hand in a bucket of it with no ill effects. It will take up to 24 hours for it to work, though, compared to about 15 minutes for MC.

Jeremy
 
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