removing anodization?...

birdave

birdave

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Jul 13, 2011
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Is there another way (easier) of removing anodizing from a knife handle (integral titanium), other than buffing it off by hand?

Thanks for weighing in.
 
This is what I use:

_DSC9722tn-X2.jpg


It’s pretty quick, so you can thin with water 1:2 or 1:3. Wear gloves.
 
ferider,
Thanks a million for weighing in and sharing the info., Truly appreciated!
I'll get some of this product and give it a try, hopefully soon.
Stay safe and have a good weekend.
 
I used whink rust remover and it took maybe 3 seconds for it to come off. Just gotta be careful handling it.
 
I have always dipped the piece/s in Whink rust remover as well. I pour enough in a bowl or container (preferably glass) to cover and then dip the item in for a few seconds and rinse with water. Take note though, the longer you leave it in the more it 'etches' the Ti. It comes out with a blasted look that can then by re-ano'd or polished. I've dipped my RUT numerous times to rid it of snail trails and scuffs. Dipped my Maratac Ti AAA to rid it of the awful shiny finish they come with.
 
GallenR said:
I have always dipped the piece/s in Whink rust remover as well. I pour enough in a bowl or container (preferably glass) to cover and then dip the item in for a few seconds and rinse with water. Take note though, the longer you leave it in the more it 'etches' the Ti. It comes out with a blasted look that can then by re-ano'd or polished. I've dipped my RUT numerous times to rid it of snail trails and scuffs. Dipped my Maratac Ti AAA to rid it of the awful shiny finish they come with.
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Be aware that the active ingredient in Whink is Hydroflouric Acid and it eats away at glass. Store in a PTFE container if not poured back in the original bottle.
 
Also, be aware that while etching with Whink the fumes are harmful. Pretty darn. It’s safer to do it outside and with a respirator that protects from fumes.
 
jiggyfly16 said:
Be aware that the active ingredient in Whink is Hydroflouric Acid and it eats away at glass. Store in a PTFE container if not poured back in the original bottle.
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Yes, correct. Sorry I didn't mention that. I use a small Pyrex dish and pour the leftover out on my gravel driveway. ( 1oz. or so) I'm sure the environmentalists will love reading this. Cancels out all the Glyphosate I use !
 
GallenR said:
Yes, correct. Sorry I didn't mention that. I use a small Pyrex dish and pour the leftover out on my gravel driveway. ( 1oz. or so) I'm sure the environmentalists will love reading this. Cancels out all the Glyphosate I use !
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Probably best practice to at least neutralize it first. Hydroflouric acid is nightmarish when in contact with living things. It bypasses the flesh and dissolves the bones and teeth. Even though Whink is diluted at 1-2.3%, IMHO is not worth the risk.
 
Yes with whink I use plastic to do the dip. Usually I buy a box of baking soda it’s dirt cheap anyway and I’ll pour the box in the solution when I’m done.
 
I'm surprised to not see oven cleaner being recommended. So i assume there must be something different between aluminum and titanium anodizing. I use Easy Off to remove anodizing from aluminum RC parts all the time and works like a charm. Any reason it won't work with titanium?
 
greengaunja said:
I'm surprised to not see oven cleaner being recommended. So i assume there must be something different between aluminum and titanium anodizing. I use Easy Off to remove anodizing from aluminum RC parts all the time and works like a charm. Any reason it won't work with titanium?
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I would not expect EZ-Off to work on Titanium.
EZ-Off contains Sodium Hydroxide, a highly alkaline compound which etches (dissolves) aluminum (That's why that company recommends using it only on Steel) . Titanium is impervious to Sodium Hydroxide.
 
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