Removing blade etches.

[DeSotoSky]

Have any of you ever removed, or had removed, etched writing on a blade. Was it hard to do and how did it turn out? I have attached a picture of a blade etch just for an example. I don't know how these are applied or how deep. Laser? If you sand it out would there still be a shadow?

While we are talking about it, how about removing engraved signatures. Any luck?

 

[TAH]

Good question. I've often considered one of the LLBean stacked leather knives, but can't stand the large logo on the blade.

 

[BuckShack]

I've considered removing a foreign country name from a few. I didn't want to ruin it though. Perhaps there is a miracle solvent.

 

[gedlicks]

I have sanded one out like the one in the top picture but it still shows a slight shadow if held right in the light. I believe someone with better equipment could get rid of it all the way.

I bought a knife from Joe Houser that had a deeper engraved signature on the blade and Joe removed it for me before shipping it to me.

Leroy or Heath I am sure can get out both types completely. They have worked miracles in the past on a few for me.

 

[MaxCast]

I have not removed an etch but I have used fine sand paper (wet) and fine steel wool to remove shallow scratches. The result is very close to original grind lines. I think laser etch is kind of like anodizing where the color actually penetrates the surface a very very small amount.

 

[Stumps]

I've removed a number of blade etches.
Some were very easy, but the last one I did I had to work at.
Wish I could tell you why the difference, but I don't know.
I used a fine Scotch-Brite wheel most of the time.
The last one I got into a more abrasive wheel before the markings disappeared, then gave it a satin finish with the Scotch-Brite wheel.
I'll bet Leroy or Heath could make the etchings disappear.

 

[Roamad]

I've removed a number of etched marks on blades, mostly by hand sanding. How much work it requires depends entirely on the quality (i.e. depth) of the etching. Most are pretty superficial, so it doesn't take a lot of sanding. I usually start with 220 or 240 wet/dry paper sanding in both directions (back and forth) to clear off 90 percent of the etching, then switch to 400 to remove the rest of the etching along with the 220 sanding marks. At this stage, you want to sand in one direction only to avoid making new "fish hooks" and swirls. Remember, you have to do the whole blade, both sides, to create a uniform appearance. But this process usually leaves the blade finish nicer than I found it. Takes me around 30 minutes per blade (unless the blade was originally polished, in which case you've got more work ahead of you).

More recently I've gone with a flap wheel mounted in a drill press and this makes the process go a lot faster. Like this:

As for engraving, have not attempted that. This would probably require removing a significant amount of metal from the blade.

 

[Roamad]

Oh, and sometimes if the etching is light, you can actually remove it by putting a vinegar patina on the blade. The vinegar will eat away the etching while also putting a patina on everything elsei it touches. But usually this requires a lot of soaking and leaves a pretty dark patina, and you may not want that for your particular blade.

 

[David Martin]

The wheels above will work. I've done the silk screen inking which the Cabela's Alaskan Guide ram is using a sisal buff wheel. It comes right
off. I suspect others would. Those done using the engraver pin would require sanding. DM