Removing blade scratches… suggestions?

D

Dswpin

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Apr 8, 2006
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What will it take to get the scratches out of this Buck 124? Looks bad, doesn't it? The scratches are very light and superficial and can’t be felt. They almost disappear depending on the angle of view. The original grain is still there and I’d prefer that look or at least an evenness of the grain.

124.jpg
 
Dswpin said:
What will it take to get the scratches out of this Buck 124? Looks bad, doesn't it? The scratches are very light and superficial and can’t be felt. They almost disappear depending on the angle of view. The original grain is still there and I’d prefer that look or at least an evenness of the grain.
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It doesn't look bad. It looks like a knife that has been used. Unless this is going to be a wall hanger I wouldn't bother.

If it is going to be a wall hanger and you just gotta get the scratches out, I understand Flitz works well.
http://www.flitz.com/
 
I hate to say it, but good luck, 600 grit won't make it much better, maybe 800 or 1,000 grit.

Also you won't be able to run that grit along the entire surface of the blade, so you'll end up with a termination line where you can't effectively use sand paper.
 
I sometimes use my strop with green compound at the end of the bevel (blade edge not even touching) to remove hand sharpening mistakes where my coarser stone got beyond the bevel. However, the original finish is compromised. If the scratches bother you get them off with; Flitz, it may take time, but it will do it, really fine grit sand paper (Skimo is right) 800 or finer, or a strop with compound. Make sure you rub in a direction that is desirable, the scratches you have do not look good. It would be cool to create a rough finish of perpendicular lines on the grind with a really large diameter wheel, and then polish the spine area where the blade is un grounded, just a thought, but it obviously would not be original finish. The most important part is that you have fun doing it, and are pleased with the outcome, regardless of our comments, opinions, or conclusions.
 
Even though I'm always for the original look on things, I can picture the outcome of your polishing idea, cj65, and it would look appealing to me. Probably anything I'd do would be an improvement anyway.
 
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kimo's got it . They would come out real easy using a wheel belt sander or a sisal buff loaded w/ grey compound . I have that same knife and enjoy using it as well . DM
 
Any lengthwise polishing will make it look worse.
The finish on most Buck knives is about 400 grit. Jantz 400 grit brush-on compound on an 8" polishing wheel, skillfully used could blend the lines.
 
I've been in your situation. Sorry to say, there's no way to return it to it's original look, but really a good knife is the one that you use and wear only adds character.
 
I have kept mirror polishes on my non-stainless steel blades like my Randalls. I use Simichrome polish. It will be a boat load of work but it will eventually take all of those scratches out. When your sitting down watching TV with the wife or girlfriend just rub, rub, rub. Be very carefull by the edge!!! It will probably take more than one session, but if your set on getting the scratches out it will work.

Bill
 
Hitthespot do you really polish your Randalls to a mirror finish.Do you do this to improve corrosion resistance on O-1 blades,or do you just prefer the look over the standard finish that RMK puts on the blades?
 
I use conditioning belts or wheels (like scotch-brite) to remove scratches. You can then buff it with finer and finer compounds to get as close to the original finish as possible.
 
A sissal buffing wheel with grey compound followed by a polishing wheel with white is what i would try.
 
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