Removing G10 scales on a Rattle Hawk

I dont really like the fell in my hand, Maybe also warp-around some metal wire near the head to change balance
 
You can always paracord wrap over the g10. Last time I removed scales on a Bussekin with the hollow pins I just sanded down the pin till I was past the flared portion and then just pushed it out the opposite end. Of course that ruined the g10 thats why I asked what your plans were with it. Drilling might be an option if you have a good drill press, just be sure you really secure the hawk, wouldnt want that thing helicoptering on you.
 
Last time I heard about the "Helicopter of Doom" The fellow almost lost his hand, I cant imagine what a Rattle Hawk would do spinning like that. :eek:

Drilling is the best option to get rid of the tubes, I used a 1/4" bit and a very tight vise. C clamps will work as well, but use two or three to ensure no spin action.

Thats a Swamp Rat isn't it? We have one of those here too! :)
 
leatherman said:
Last time I heard about the "Helicopter of Doom" The fellow almost lost his hand, I cant imagine what a Rattle Hawk would do spinning like that. :eek:

Drilling is the best option to get rid of the tubes, I used a 1/4" bit and a very tight vise. C clamps will work as well, but use two or three to ensure no spin action.

Thats a Swamp Rat isn't it? We have one of those here too! :)
Click to expand...
Yep, vise, clamps and put a sheath on it.
 
I've never removed the handles on a Busse. But if I were to remove them, I would use a high-speed tool steel drill bit to cut through the flare on one end, then push them through. I would use a drill bit just slightly larger diameter than the tube. If you're careful, you should be able to do it without hurting the G10.
 
If you choose to discard the G10, please send it my way and I will pay for shipping etc. I would love it for a new project I'm working on :)
 
leatherman said:
Last time I heard about the "Helicopter of Doom" The fellow almost lost his hand, I cant imagine what a Rattle Hawk would do spinning like that. :eek:

Drilling is the best option to get rid of the tubes, I used a 1/4" bit and a very tight vise. C clamps will work as well, but use two or three to ensure no spin action.

Thats a Swamp Rat isn't it? We have one of those here too! :)
Click to expand...

Great advice! Ill start a project page when I get to it

Wilkes; I will let you know
 
Leather Dude is correct, 1/4" sharp Drill bit and lots of clamping.

You should only have to drill one side then push it out the other.

I have done a few back in the day.

I even had some tube flares made to put them back on :)

The brass is way nicer than the stainless tubes :)
 
David, Ill wait for your Sheath to come before I get to it. You did some for the RH? got any pictures of that?

Anyone got suggestions other than wrap around metal wire to change balance?
 
Yep I have done plenty for the RH.

What is wrong with the balance ?

pic

P1070585.jpg
 
Just take your time and make sure the hawk is secure before you start drilling. Can't wait to see what you end up with.

Garth
 
Garth Reckner said:
Can't go wrong with a Buy Brown Sheath.

Garth
Click to expand...

I got for over 300$ worth of kydex ordered from him, namely; CG Gladius, AESHBM, TGLB, Rattle Hawk..

Gonna be a happy camper when the blades & kydex arrives and my Bug-out-bag should be as complete as needed for both the ship, and home.. Just in case
 
David Brown said:
Leather Dude is correct, 1/4" sharp Drill bit and lots of clamping.

You should only have to drill one side then push it out the other.

I have done a few back in the day.

I even had some tube flares made to put them back on :)

The brass is way nicer than the stainless tubes :)
Click to expand...

That's just how to do it just like Les and Dave have said. Drill it and push it. Just make dang sure that the head is covered and the hawk is securely anchored in a vise. What ever you do stay centered in the hole and DO NOT allow the bit to get cockeyed on you. If the bit bites get of the trigger NOW, do not start trying to wiggle the bit while your finger is still on the trigger. Oh and if you can, use a cordless that has a clutch and not a corded Milwaukee or some other brand. The clutch might save you from going to the Doc's.
 
Ill likely use what in the shop downstairs in the Engine room. they have a vertical fixed drill system on a table, and all the bits and pieces to make it safe.
Fear not, In the middle of nowhere on the ocean, the Nearest hospital is many many days away...
 
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