removing jag pins

hogman

hogman

Joined
Oct 8, 2001
Messages
191
I can't seem to get the half broken pins out of my jag. I want to get the other not broken one out too and replace it and I am having a heck of a time doing it. Is there any method for removing the pins without any specialized tools?

Thanx,
Henry
 
A pin punch and hammer is all I use. Find one that is the largest that will fit in the hole. Grind or file off the smallest head on the pin (look at both sides, you'll see). Clamp the blade in a vise with the handles open in a "T" shape and pound it out. I've had some that all I had to do was pull it out with a pair of pliers.

Good Luck,

Mer
 
If you've got enough gap between the handles and the blade to squeeze a thin hacksaw blade (like from a Sawz-all) in there, that'll do too. Best are jeweler's saws, but that's specialized, unless you know a jeweler or watchmaker.
 
The thing I've found that work best is to work the "good" pin lose a little (it probably already is) and the just zip it off with a dremmel cutoff wheel. I've also done it the way Mer does it and find it to be a little annoying but works well too.
 
Well, I hacksawed the end of and punched out one pin, but the other pin I had punched through to the blade without grinding down the head, so it is stuck against the blade. I've been bashing this thing for hours now and feel like blowtorching it; In any case it appears that the ends of the pins are solid steel, not hollow brass. This may be because I've squeezed them together with pliers and it caved in though.

Thanx for the help and happy new year! 2002, year of the SS handled 3" Damascus spring loaded latch Laser-Bat-Blade!
 
Yea!!!

Everyone have a wonderful Laser-Bat-Blade Year!!!

(I'm probably going to be the one passed out in the bushes at 11:45)
 
Happy New Year to you also..., and I do think Eric's method is the best :) ....of course you may ask WHY -giggle-..., but I just assume most folks don't have many sophisticated tools laying around to do it easily.

We are in agreement about the take-over of Lazer-Bat-Blades.., so email me if you have more problems and we'll work it out.



"Hunters seek what they [WANT].., Seekers hunt what they [NEED]"
 
Originally posted by hogman
In any case it appears that the ends of the pins are solid steel, not hollow brass. This may be because I've squeezed them together with pliers and it caved in though.
Click to expand...

Hmm, 1sks lists their jags with the following description:

"With a suggested retail of only $39.99 the Jaguar series of butterfly knives from Dragon Forge are well within the budget of most any collector, especially at our low prices. Each features the classic safe handle locking clasp and high quality stainless pivot pins."

So, it probably depends on where you get the thing; I remember having a :barf:rostfrei:barf: that had brass pins, but they were completely solid.

Anyway, maybe try using a nail for a pin punch, that's still sharp? Mebbe the smaller surface area hitting the pin will let the edges fold over a bit more? Dunno, worth a try.
 
Originally posted by hogman
Well, I hacksawed the end of and punched out one pin, but the other pin I had punched through to the blade without grinding down the head, so it is stuck against the blade.
Click to expand...
Well, in proper engineering terms, you're close to FUBAR. But not quite there. Good chance you've mushroomed it in the gap space between the handle and the tang. Time to find that jeweler's saw, and cut the pin on the other side if you can.

Happy new year.
 
Moved to new thread...

Still, let's wrap up this last year with a sense of peace....
 
I would say no on the torch considering the handles will likely melt before the pinhead will. I've had some of these solid pins as well and they greatly suck. None worse than the solid and pressure fitted Bear pins though (don't ask how I got those out because I didn't). It's rough. If you have a dremmel you can use the smallest grinder bit and grind below the handle level until a punch will finally work. Without power tools I'd say work the other pin like it's 2002 and hope to break the other one. I'd even go to the point of throwing it into boards and stuff and pulling it out laterally.
 
Well you can refer this post to anyone that needs to repin a jag. I found that for whole pins Mer's method of grinding down the smaller end of the pin and punching it out works good. For the broken pin I punched it as far as it would go, hacksawed off the end of it, than punched it out the opposite direction. I also found that you need very little pin sticking up to get it to mushroom properly, maybe 7 mm. Also don't forget clay's suggestion of sticking a dull razorblade between the handles and the blade since if you get carried away it is a pain to get the nail out and redo the whole thing. And the pins on the "surgical steel" jags (not "rostfrei) appear to be solid steel so you can probably tighten them up by mushrooming one end, although I would recommend just replacing the pin right away. It took me two years to do this one knife, but now it swings as smooth as the 49-SPL I wish I had!
 
Originally posted by hogman
It took me two years to do this one knife, but now it swings as smooth as the 49-SPL I wish I had!
Click to expand...
Glad it wasn't near FUBAR. And if you really want to find out if it swings as nicely as the BM 49-SPL (would you consider a 49-01 instead?), next time you're in the NYC area, give me a holler.
 
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