Removing jimping from Manix 2?

timichango

timichango

Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Messages
771
I recently picked up a Manix 2 on a trade, and I love everything about it — except for the jimping on the liners. I don't mind the jimping in the spine/ricasso, but the liner jimps are driving me bananas.

Has anyone here filed/sanded theirs down flush with the G10 scales, and achieved a satisfactorily clean result? Any ideas about process/procedure, and/or photos of the finished result would be much appreciated!
 
I filed/sanded mine when I had it disassembled for the scale change. Top and bottom. Easy to do. Much prefer it this way.

20150523_155721-small_zpsu4avy2qq.jpg


I also sanded off the scale jimping on my LW.
 
I've read that the lanyard tube is all that's holding the scales on at the rear — does the tube need to come off somehow? or can I just ditch the lock assembly and blade, and set the liners up in a vice one at a time with the rest of the scales/liner/tube assembly dangling?

Thanks!

T
 
Find a round Broom stick or something similar, that fits the curve, Wrap 120 Grit, Sand across until you think the jimps are gone enough. Then Put 220 Grit, sand, and it you want it smoother than that, Go to to 400-600 Grit
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
Find a round Broom stick or something similar, that fits the curve, Wrap 120 Grit, Sand across until you think the jimps are gone enough. Then Put 220 Grit, sand, and it you want it smoother than that, Go to to 400-600 Grit
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Solid plan. I actually have some rubber sanding forms that I might be able to leverage for the job. I'll report back once I succeed (or mangle my knife) :)
 
I ground off the overdone jimping on my CF/S90V Manix 2 without even taking it apart. All that stuff is why I haven't bought another Manix2 since then, and why I don't carry one at all any more.
 
yablanowitz said:
I ground off the overdone jimping on my CF/S90V Manix 2 without even taking it apart. All that stuff is why I haven't bought another Manix2 since then, and why I don't carry one at all any more.
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I won't lie... part of me is wondering if I shouldn't just sell the thing off and buy something else that doesn't need to be modified. Like a PM2. Shame, really — I like the knife otherwise.
 
If you like the knife I would do the modification. If that is the only thing you don't like about it then that's a pretty easy fix. I do think its a little overdone myself but it doesn't bother me so I haven't messed with mine. Should be easy enough to do though with some sandpaper. That's about the only thing I haven't modified on mine. I changed the scales switched out the ball bearing to a ceramic bearing and added a standoff on the backend to lock down the end better. Love it now. Mods just make it your own.
 
luke86 said:
If you like the knife I would do the modification. If that is the only thing you don't like about it then that's a pretty easy fix. I do think its a little overdone myself but it doesn't bother me so I haven't messed with mine. Should be easy enough to do though with some sandpaper. That's about the only thing I haven't modified on mine. I changed the scales switched out the ball bearing to a ceramic bearing and added a standoff on the backend to lock down the end better. Love it now. Mods just make it your own.
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I would love to see this knife.
 
If you have a Dremel you might be able to sand it carefully without taking it apart...if you are good at detail work.
 
If you like the knife, join the modding club and do it. It's easy. I took it apart to risk wrecking the scales (plus I skeletonized mine - THAT was a pain). I used a Dremel with diamond drums, then sanded smooth.
 
I don't think I would try to use a Dremel, at least not if the scales are still attached. At least I know I can't hold it steady enough to not risk scaring the scales. For me the Dremel likes to grab and jump around at times and leaves lots of small diameter divots on soft material instead of a nice flat surface like a flat abrasive makes. I think the metal liners would look ok because the material is removed slow enough to not see the imperfections but I would think any spot where the liners and scales become flush will cause the scales to get marked up. Maybe you can remove any marks by progressing up to really fine grit abrasives, but I would want to remove the scales and just not risk it.

I know on the Manix 2 the lanyard hole tube is swedged at the ends to expand it slightly and make a tight fit so that it becomes a structural support. When I messed with one I didn't try to take the scales off because I was not confident I could get it back together. But you can rotate the individual pieces around the tube so that you can work on each piece individually. Maybe someone has a good way of removing the tube and getting it back in place?

You also need to be careful when putting the plastic ball bearing cage back in. It's easy to rotate it a little while trying to compress the spring and get it in place which puts a lot of stress on the plastic post the spring rides on and can break it off. It's possible to put it back together because I've done it but there have been multiple reports of people breaking them.

I'm sure it can be taken apart and put back together, just know that it's not the easiest model to work on.
 
It's definitely not the easiest model to take apart and put back together but its not terribly difficult. There are a couple youtube videos out there demonstrating how to do it. Watch a couple and go for it. Just take your time. I would definitely take it apart to sand the liners and my choice would most certainly be sandpaper. Dremel could be difficult on that.
 
Dremel sanding drums are larger diameter, so, are easier and wouldn't leave divots as easy. Way quicker, unless you're a patient man.
 
I wound up de-jimping it while still assembled using sandpaper and a couple of rubber sanding blocks I had lying around, paired with some hermes 120 grit shop cloth. Worked fine. Took about the duration of an episode of the walking dead, but turned out really well. Jimping is now flush with the scales, and sanding by hand made it forgivingly difficult to mar the G10. Wound up radiusing/easing the very edges on the g10 all around the scales as well, a bit more than they were from the factory, and the knife feels superb now. No hotspots, no issues.

I'll try to remember to post photos later when I'm at home.

Thanks for all the thoughts on this!
 
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