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removing rust on a colectable knife
- Thread starter kokoek9
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Yes the knife is ruined. Throw it away 
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Removing red rust is never a bad idea. It'll just get worse over time, with more pitting, if it's ignored.
With truly 'valuable' knives, collectors will always discourage sanding or polishing such knives, in favor of leaving a clean patina with no rust. Many will use mineral oil and some very fine steel wool to gently rub the red rust off. The steel wool won't be as hard as most cutlery steel, so it won't scratch blades or remove patina that's set in over time.
A lot of 'collectible' knives won't necessarily be monetarily valuable (or more valuable) than other knives anyway. If there's already some red rust on the knife, there's likely some pitting as well; if so, it's monetary value may be diminished anyway. Might post a pic or two of the knives you're describing, either here or in Bernard Levine's sub-forum. Per forum rules, asking about $$ value specifics isn't allowed without a paid (Gold level) membership, but you can still get some good feedback about the real 'collectibility' of your knives, and if cleaning them will make a significant difference.
David
With truly 'valuable' knives, collectors will always discourage sanding or polishing such knives, in favor of leaving a clean patina with no rust. Many will use mineral oil and some very fine steel wool to gently rub the red rust off. The steel wool won't be as hard as most cutlery steel, so it won't scratch blades or remove patina that's set in over time.
A lot of 'collectible' knives won't necessarily be monetarily valuable (or more valuable) than other knives anyway. If there's already some red rust on the knife, there's likely some pitting as well; if so, it's monetary value may be diminished anyway. Might post a pic or two of the knives you're describing, either here or in Bernard Levine's sub-forum. Per forum rules, asking about $$ value specifics isn't allowed without a paid (Gold level) membership, but you can still get some good feedback about the real 'collectibility' of your knives, and if cleaning them will make a significant difference.
David
Ernie1980
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David gave you good advice, you don't need to come back with a comment like that. The people on the forum are very helpful and will go out of their way to get you assistance and advice.
To answer your question best, as mentioned above, some pictures would help. I recently restored two flea market knives to useable status and would be glad to help you.
To answer your question best, as mentioned above, some pictures would help. I recently restored two flea market knives to useable status and would be glad to help you.
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David answered the question posted and by his response clearly understands that value is not only monetary in nature. Your response to his helpful post is just rude and if that is not what you wanted to know then you didn't ask the right question.
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As worded above, it's exactly how it would've been interpreted by the Mods, in all likelihood. The question of 'collectible value' gets asked very frequently, and is almost always interpreted the same way ($$$), by members and Mods here. This is why I was attempting to give you a (genuinely) friendly heads-up, as the question as worded often generates warnings or infractions from the Mods, for non-paying members not permitted to ask these things.
If the question isn't about money anyway, then it's essentially moot as to whether cleaning up the rust will matter in regards to 'collectible value'. At that point, the value is only aesthetic or sentimental, and only important to the owner of the knife. Give it the attention you think it needs, and don't look back.
David
sorry I was rude, I am always misinterpreting things forgive me. I would also like to know more about the knife. I bought on ebay as a bring home from Vietnam, my uncles brought them home from WWII as well. That is all I know about them. there IS NO MAKER ON THE ones I have, they also have 3 narrow pieces of brass in the bottom here are pictures.
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I only use it to reset or even out bevels but it is the best guided system I have used.Moose of the Becker and KaBar forums give it to me when he got the newer deluxe model but I have a kangaroo leather strop attatchment for it last month that needs testing.
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sorry I was rude, I am always misinterpreting things forgive me. I would also like to know more about the knife. I bought on ebay as a bring home from Vietnam, my uncles brought them home from WWII as well. That is all I know about them. there IS NO MAKER ON THE ones I have, they also have 3 narrow pieces of brass in the bottom here are pictures.
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I think those are known as 'demo knives' (as in 'demolition', I think). U.S. government contracted many makers to produce them for the military in WW2 (1945) and later. Millions upon millions I think were made; many from Camillus in particular, but other manufacturers also produced them. Camillus also continued to produce them for the domestic market (consumers), right up until they closed up in 2007, if I recall.
I'd still suggest posting your pics and any other descriptive info in the Bernard Levine subforum (linked below). For collectable knives, that's where the best feedback will usually be found. I think I might've bookmarked a web page on all things related to these knives (I have one of the consumer-grade Camillus versions); if I can find it again, I'll add a link here. Another friendly heads-up, Levine is very particular about well-worded requests for info on these things, as well as a stickler for clear pics (read the 'stickies' and guidelines for such things at the top of his page before posting). I'd also still avoid any questions regarding 'value', for reasons mentioned earlier. You'll still get some good feedback, in all likelihood.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/f...-Levine-s-Knife-Collecting-amp-Identification
Here's one article with some history of the pattern. It's interesting reading, but I can't say if it's fully accurate or not. Something to start with, anyway:
http://www.donrearic.com/demoknife1.html
David
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I suppose it's possible some didn't include the bail, though I don't know. The history of the pattern goes back so far, and the design has gone through some changes over the years, between many different makers. I'm sort of curious about this Case version; I'll have to do some looking for info on it.
David
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Not my article; just found it on the web (authored by Ken Cook). I don't think anybody's going to have issues with it being printed out or whatever, so I wouldn't worry about it.
David