Removing Scratches and Stains

Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
1,743
Good Afternoon Everyone!
I need some serious advice from all you users and abusers of INFI on how best to remove scratches from a satin Busse blade as well as ideas how to lighten stains or the color on its Micarta handle.
Back story: After some recent impromptu garden pruning with my Fat .270 Green Warden, I noticed some parallel scratches on one side of the satin blade. I originally thought I had been careless in my cutting, but then the number of scratches on that one side seemed to grow over the next week. When I later swapped out my Little Green Giant for my Fat .270 Black G-10 Warden, I started to see a scratch or two in the exact same spot! The culprit, I now suspect, is some grit or sand unsuspectingly stuck down in the shared Kydex sheath. Either that or the Kydex sheath itself.
The question now is how to restore - materials and methods - the blade's finish. Ideas? Previous Experiences?
Also, has anyone every tried removing stains from or lightening/changing the color of Busse's Micarta handles?
Thanks for your replies,
"Bloody Bill"
 
When my handles get dirty, I just wash them with dishwashing soap...haven't had anything stay after that, although I had to get pretty serious with one of those green scratcher pads one time after letting the vegetable matter set in.
 
To remove scratches from a satin blade get scotchbrite pads and sand from the edge to the spine.

For mikarta, just wash in soapy water. To prevent staining, oil the mikarta with mineral oil.
 
To remove scratches from a satin blade get scotchbrite pads and sand from the edge to the spine.

+1...I don't know how I forgot to answer the other part of your question. Obviously the scratches will come back if the sheath is what's doing the scratching, and you keep using it.
 
Green Scotch Brite pads. Lightly rub in one direction. No back and forth! :)
 
Be very careful and rub it it from edge to spine in a straight line! When I tried doing this, I ended up making minor arches instead! Its difficult to get the vertical lines straight!
 
Not that I clean up scratches on a blade too often but when I do I clamp a 2x4 to the work bench and clamp the scotchbrite pad to the end of the 2x4 then I can drag the blade with 2 hands across the pad and I get straighter marks.
 
what about the Mothers paste ?

the mother's will get rid if fine scratches, but it will overpolish the area.....


the spot treated by mothers will start to go to a mirror polish, while the rest of the blade will remain satin......you start to get an inconsistent finish.....


mother's is great if you are going to do the whole blade, but not for individual portions of a blade....
 
It is a Knife, a Tool, it is going to get dirty and scratched in use, And that is a "Good" thing.

There is Beauty in wear.

Form follows Function.

Relax,

Breath,

Beat,

Rend, shred, Tear.

Fold, Spindle, and mutilate.

Repeat as necessary.
 
take your kydex sheath and give it a good hot soapy bath, scrub out all that grit.
 
It is a Knife, a Tool, it is going to get dirty and scratched in use, And that is a "Good" thing.

There is Beauty in wear.

Form follows Function.

Relax,

Breath,

Beat,

Rend, shred, Tear.

Fold, Spindle, and mutilate.

Repeat as necessary.


it's nice that you don't mind scratches on your blades, but some people prefer nice flawless finishes.....


different strokes for different folks.....:thumbup:
 
It is a Knife, a Tool, it is going to get dirty and scratched in use, And that is a "Good" thing.

There is Beauty in wear.

Form follows Function.

Relax,

Breath,

Beat,

Rend, shred, Tear.

Fold, Spindle, and mutilate.

Repeat as necessary.

That's priceless.... I just found my new sig line!!
 
I have used dish soap and bleach to clean stained canvas micarta.
It whitens and cleans the exposed fabric. a toothbrush works well.

Kydex only scratches if it is dirty...
 
I have some superficial scratches on my Titanium folder from a raised sewn thread on the inside of the case.
The maker said the finish was applied with a ScotchBrite pad.
I thought, no problem and purchased some ScotchBright pads to rub them out.
No way in hell. :(
The scotchbrite pads do nothing to the finish.
I believe, I could rub the finish a million times by hand and it wouldn't remove the scratches. :confused: :mad:
What grit or color ScotchBrite pads do I need ?
Do I need to send it back to the maker ?
Obviouisly, he put the finish on with a power buffer.
No way, I'm going to wear myself out doing it by hand. :grumpy:
If I send it back to the maker, I'm going to have it sandblasted. :thumbup:


Sag.
 
Maroon medium scotchbrite is the most common. The green scrubbies in the kitchen isle WILL NOT WORK. You can usually find them at a local ace hardware or other hardware stores. There is a grey fine grit that's great for putting finishing touches on stuff but for the most part the maroon ones are great all arounders.
 
Yoda,

Out of ignorance, I got the green ones and you're right, they're useless !
I will try the hardware tomorrow for the maroon medium ones.
Thanks for your help. :thumbup:


Sag.
 
Back
Top