Renaissance Wax

I used to, but I just use Mothers caranuba car wax now. With the ren-wax I would still notice some corrosion if I didn’t keep applying it.
 
I use is a sort of block out where I don't want epoxy to spill to.
I use renwax for that because I have it at hand.
 
I have a tube of it and have tried it, but I've pretty much settled on carnauba wax on wood/leather and coconut oil on steel.
 
I've tried it and don't much like it.
Personally I think you're much better off with either pure carnauba wax applied with a buffer, or a floor wax such as Johnson's, minwax, or butchers.
 
I've used it for some time and switched to the Mother's carnuba car wax too. I feel the protection is better, far cheaper and has a visual "pop" that the Ren Wax was missing.
 
Renaissance Wax is designed to be easy to buff off of objects that will not be handled much. It's also very expensive.
Neutral paste shoe polish works much better, as does Johnson's paste wax.
 
I use it and keep a washcloth with a good amount worked into it in my show bag. All knives get wiped down upon setting out, wiped down at the end of the day, and wiped down well when putting away at the end of the show. If I don't, it is virtually a guarantee that I will find a little rust spot on some blades.This is because as the hundred of people stand at that table talking, some spittle droplets will fall on the blades. You won't notice anything then, but later on the acidic nature of the drops will slowly start trouble.

When storing the knives away, I wipe the whole knife, making sure to get in any crevices, and leave the wax on the handle and blade. A quick buff with a soft cloth and the knives are table ready six months later.
 
For long term preservation nothing else even comes close to renn wax. Its why pretty much every mueseum on earth uses it for their artifacts. Works wonders on steel, wood, ivory, etc. Ive been using it for 20 years now, and never had a problem either.

That said, You wont notice much of a difference in the short term from it and other cheaper options. And if your just lubing it up for sale and its a user knife, renn wax is overkill.. But heres the thing, carnauba, paste wax, coconut products etc, they all turn rancid/ACIDIC over time.... renn wax was formulated specifically not to... and that's why museums use it. its the only one good for long term preservation.

As for short term protection, skip waxes entirely. just use camelia oil. It also doesnt go acidic, is all natural, and food safe. And a $20 bottle goes a looong way
 
Aidenag said:
For long term preservation nothing else even comes close to renn wax. Its why pretty much every mueseum on earth uses it for their artifacts. Works wonders on steel, wood, ivory, etc. Ive been using it for 20 years now, and never had a problem either.

That said, You wont notice much of a difference in the short term from it and other cheaper options. And if your just lubing it up for sale and its a user knife, renn wax is overkill.. But heres the thing, carnauba, paste wax, coconut products etc, they all turn rancid/ACIDIC over time.... renn wax was formulated specifically not to... and that's why museums use it. its the only one good for long term preservation.

As for short term protection, skip waxes entirely. just use camelia oil. It also doesnt go acidic, is all natural, and food safe. And a $20 bottle goes a looong way
Click to expand...

I've never heard of Camelia oil. I'd love to know more about it.
 
Japanese been using camelia to protect steel for centuries. Great stuff, only thing i use on kitchen knives. I also mix with bees wax and make my own butcher block oil with it.. One of, if not the only natural oil that doesnt turn acidic with age. And yeah, totally non toxic, food safe, can even cook with it if you wanted to.

Extra tip, better than coconut oil on conditioning dry/frizzy hair too.
 
For things that get used, shoe polish holds up a lot better.
 
Camellia oil - aka Choji Oil

While traditional choji was clove oil, today's commercial choji is usually a blend of mostly camellia with some clove oil.
 
Well, I figured I wouldn't start a new thread to ask this since it is based off of this thread that I'm now going to get some Mother's carnauba wax, and since it's only a month old.

Anyway, I was wondering, which kind of Mother's carnauba wax would you guys recommend?

I just did an Amazon search and there seems to be quite a few different types.

Could anybody recommend which one of these in the link below works best for our needs?

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...refix=mother's+carn,hpc,783&crid=BTKOP1VD6NL1

Thanks

~Paul
My Youtube Channel

... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
On the Mothers I use the one in the tin. Either one ya show would work for me. Just for info I've also tried Turtle Wax and didn't like it as well, it didn't clean excess buffing gunk off as well and as easily as the Mothers does.
 
Thanks kuraki I appreciate it. I'm curious, what's that stuff like to apply? I just read a few reviews that say it's pretty hard stuff.

Horsewright, are you using the mother's for steel protection or to finish your wood?

Also, have either of you ever used Johnson's paste wax? I ask because that's what I was considering trying but then I remembered reading this thread.

I also just want to clarify that I'm getting it to replace my Ren wax but not for protecting the steel, but for finishing wood on top of danish oil (which I'm also now gonna pick up). Unless of course, somebody tells me I'm wrong in doing so ;) It's what a number of maker's who's work impresses me recommend which is why I'm giving it a try as well.

I've been using tru-oil, but I'm looking for something that'll hold up better to actual use.

Honestly, this is one of those subjects that gives me a headache, as there's always 12 answers for 12 makers, just like with leather finishes lol. Thankfully I've already figured out what leather finish(es) I like after buying a number of them, but I'm really hoping to avoid doing that again.

~Paul
My Youtube Channel

... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
Well heck that's better than 15 answers from 12 makers! Yes I use it on both wood and steel, the whole knife regardless of the handle material. I have not tried the Johnson Paste Wax.
 
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