Repairing a lockback floder

Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Messages
28
I have a Chicago Cutlery L33 that doesn't lock anymore. The metal bar that makes the spring stay in place in totally missing. This is the way I got it (free). What is my best option for getting this fixed? Sending it back to CC?
 
If you post a picture showing what's actually wrong with your knife it might be easier for someone to offer some help. Your description is too vague. I doubt chicago cutlery will fix anything these days because it is just a name for cheap imported Chinese made knives. The old American made chicago cutlery knivesand company are long gone.

I turned an old USA made Schrade LB7 folder with a broken backspring into a usable fixed blade by just gluing in the backspring with JB Weld epoxy. I also completely filled the insides with the same JB Weld epoxy and sanded everything smooth to match the contours of the handles. It is now a pretty decent fixed blade and I have tested it pretty hard and it is now tougher and will take more hard use than most folders that's for sure. I also reshaped the broken tip which was pretty common with these knives and a lot of the Buck 110's.
 
JB Weld is right up there with duct tape in that it will repair/hold together just about anything you use it on! I have used it with much success from car engines to knives.

And I agree with turning it into a fixed blade being your best option, especially since you got it for free.
 
a picture would certainly help. if you like this knife do NOT use jb on it. get a used copy of a book called the pocketknife manual by blackie collins. it can be found for pretty cheap and it will tell you step by step, with plenty of pictures to boot, how to repair old pocket knives.
 
Thanks for the replies. I would not like to turn it into a fixed blade, but return it to it's original working order.
Here are some pics:
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This can possibly be fixed quite easily without any JB Weld or disassembly. It looks like the spring is missing. It may be as easy as cutting a properly sized piece of spring steel and popping it in while the lockbar is held in proper position with the blade fully extended. Assuming there is not other damage (perhaps something that allowed the original spring to fall out, or the spring was integral to the spacer/bolster), this might be fairly easy.
 
Thanks Shecky,
That is what I've assumed from te beggining. I looks like there is a groove the spring would fit right in that apears undamaged. I really wouldn't know where to get one or how to make sure it would fit properly though.
 
You might be able to find tempered spring steel rods in the proper diameter at a regular old hardware store. You'd also need something like a dremel or grinder to cut the rod and polish it off a bit.

You'd need to determine how deep the groove is, to decide on how much of the spring will be hidden, and then determine how long the exposed part of the spring needs to be. You might be able to tell from wear on the lockbar how long the exposed part of the spring might have been. Often there's a ridge on the lockbar behind the pivot tht helps keep the spring from falling out, and should also give a clue as to a proper length for the replacement spring.

The trickiest part would be to push the spring into position, which has to be done with the blade and lockbar in the open position, using perhaps a couple of flat metal tools, one to compress the spring, and one to push it into the groove as it's being compressed. This can be a very tricky part, maneuvering the spring into a place where it can be pushed into the slot. The knife should be immobilized for this procedure. Make sure the edge is well taped off to keep from accidentally cutting yourself should your hands/work slip.

Keep in mind that it's hard to tell why the original spring managed to disappear. There may be another issue that keeps the fix from being simple.
 
So I got the spring. Cut it to as close as I could to an appropriate size. And it doesn't really work. It kinda keeps it closed, but very weakly. I suppose I either made it too long or too short.
 
The angle on the spring is wrong, it needs to be bent upwards to put more pressure on lockbar in place. The problem is you really need to remove center pin and then bend spring a lot more then put knife in a vice with lockbar inserted then sharpen a new brass pin (same size or close) on one side to insert in hole easily while vice in depressing lockbar all the way down then carefully cut off new pin in lockbar on each side of handles.

The wood handles will split out if you peen too much so just cut off pin flush and ever so gently tap each side with a punch it should stay in.

Robbie Roberson
 
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